corrupt Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 wheres a good cheap place in auckland preferably out west, who can work my head abit, just after port polish, crack test etc. also how much am i looking at to get a port polish done? i also have a lumpy cam, but no specs. how much of a bitch is it going to be to find out its specs? is it possible? and if i cant find out the specs, will the tappets be hard to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 mate with a mk3 tina told me about an excellent place in new lynn behind King Dicks... called something balancing. failing that see John at Glendene engine reco and yes he can give you the cam specs as for port and polish prices, they'll ask you EVERY time "how much you wanna spend?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 yuh. tis all man hours for porting etc. can get up to a full weeks work on a single head if you wanna go stupid. find some old dude that used to be into racing hard, and still dabbles in it. I've got a dude like that. can't help himself from hitting any head he has off with a die grinder...... labour of love, fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 theres another place in east Tamaki if you wanna travel that far that is real good. got my head job there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted March 6, 2006 Author Share Posted March 6, 2006 how far would $200 get? i dont want anything grinded out harcore, just like smoothed/polished out cuz its all rough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 probably just a wee bit/fuck all maybe round 300 or just a bit more>? plenty of people have the opinion that portings all good but not polishing as it causes droplets of gas to stick to the walls and what not. so im not 100% on that one yet but i'd still do it pm RT, hes got some good tips on pinto heads, im shure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx7 Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 papakura engine specialist in takanini are real good when it comes to stuff like this. but yeh, save a bit more coin before you start ringing round or going to places looking for quotes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 or premier auto services Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2_escort Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 $200 is not goin 2 get u much mate. 4 something decent its not worth spending under 450-500. i know sum1 who has a rally car with a 4age 16v in it. he told me hes spent 5g on the head and its puting out 170hp on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 $200 is not goin 2 get u much mate. 4 something decent its not worth spending under 450-500. i know sum1 who has a rally car with a 4age 16v in it. he told me hes spent 5g on the head and its puting out 170hp on the dyno thats a fucking poor investment for 170. sweet fuck all but yeah 200 isnt gonna take you far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WDE_BDY Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 DELETED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 yeah fair enough its always dearer doing up an n/a and doesnt yield as much hp... ive spent about 5k or more all up by now. realistically dont expect much than 120 or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 how far would $200 get? i dont want anything grinded out harcore, just like smoothed/polished out cuz its all rough. If you have minimum money then I would sugest the best thing to do is get a 1600 head. For $200 you should be able to get the compression dropped and maybe the 2l valves fitted in if your lucky. For actuall porting of the head you really need someone who knows there shit and can prove it. flow bench test maybe. RTs mate flows heads, hit him up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 yeah you're on the wrong island mate! lol, it would almost be worth getting a head from me and shipping it. $200 still won't get far though, but could get you mild one for $350. My head had 20 hours spent on it btw.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted March 6, 2006 Author Share Posted March 6, 2006 when i was getting a quote today,bumped into a mk5 with a frontmount etc. the dudes running 15psi on stock internals/head, and usually runs 18psi. im almost on the verge of being sucked into forced induction. supercharge seems the easier option over turbocharge, or am i missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kris Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 You're missing something - sorry. Supercharging is not easy - the pulleys = heaps of custom fabrication and then you still have to do the brackets and pipework. It's taking me ages, and killing my wallet. A lesson I have just learnt about porting heads. I ported mine (RTs 20 hours is about right) and then took it to get the new unleaded seats and larger valves fitted. No go. I'm going to have to do it again. I had done a really light grind to the chamber, taking off the ridge Ford leave after machining. But because the valves were larger, the engineer wanted to sit the valves further down, but of course now couldn't... It would have been OK with normal valves. Arse! RT hasn't used hardened seats, but aditives don't work with high performance engines - so I am going to have to disagree with him on this. You know it would be cheaper to: 1. Go to supercheap. 2. Buy a $100 compressor 3. Buy a $50 die grinder 4. Go to a good engineering place 5. Buy a $40 carbide cutter (or buy a $10 set of abrasive stones from SC) 6. Have a go yourself. That's about your $200... You'll get dirty. You'll get sh*t in your eyes. You'll get a big thrill out of doing it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kris Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 when i was getting a quote today,bumped into a mk5 with a frontmount etc. the dudes running 15psi on stock internals/head, and usually runs 18psi. im almost on the verge of being sucked into forced induction. Now it is rant time. Boost/PSI is a very bad indicator of performance. You want to get as much flow into the cylinders as possible - pressure is not really a good measure. I always liked the hose analogy. Put your finger over the end of a hose. The water is coming out with a very high pressure - but very little quantity. You're better to remove your finger. Same with forced induction engines. Now, you have to ask yourself how can you run 15-18psi on a stock engine. We all know that 9.2:1 compression will be too high. Well the answer is one of VE (volumetric Efficiency). If your car has 50% VE, then you are only filling your clyinders with 60% of fuel/air mixture - so it is like a effective CR of 5.5 + 15psi boost = about 11:1. A performance improvement, sure - but not much. A full on NA racing engine gets about 93% VE, whereas the VE of the Pinto sucks. This is one reason why you can see big psi on a stock Pinto. It isn't because the engine is very good/strong, it just doesn't breathe well enough to hurt itself . I am not knocking the Pinto (I have several), you just need to do some work if you want your boost to mean anything. The really funny thing, is that you can be seeing high boost with a stock cam in the engine, swap the cam to something better - and see a drop in boost. This is because the engine is now getting more into the clyinders, and therefore the boost drops as there is less buildup on the inlet side of the valves. Same thing for porting. But both will give you more power. So, boost means F**K all. It is all about flow. But you can't measure that unless you infer it from a dyno run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 this is true for the most part. I had one that read 12psi on totally factory engine and made 140hp at the wheels. This is from a T25 so you also have to take into account what turbo you are running. As an indication of how poor the factory head flows, after a mild port job the boost dropped down to 8spi. so kris is right but I disagree with the performance.. 140hp just for wacking on a turbo is pretty good gain. You try and see how much it cost you to get 140hp at the wheels n/a. Thats more then a lot of so called 'fully worked' n/a systems. as for the hardned seats, I wasn't prepared to risk one dropping into my 6 grand engine and fucking it! I haven't seen a lot of valve recession with the pintos, I believe its because of the type of quality iron used. some engines wear out others don't. It's just not an issue, I don't expect my engine to be working in another 25 years. lol um supercharging.. I reckon it's easier personally.. you drop the alternator down and make a custom tensioner.. I have one lying around. Make a mount for the supercharger where the alternator used to be. and plumb it up. The downside is you can only run a pulley for around 12psi cos you run out of room.. and you have to get custom extractors or run the factory exhaust manifold. Either was you need EFi, thats something I will always mention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Hey. I had a go at porting during xmas on my mini. Wasn't hard but was time consuming. I was blowing metal filings out of my nose for a week so wear a mask - i was too lazy. Basically a $100 compressor won't have the guts to run a grinder. It might be fine for a microgrinder but not the typically sized ones. I was running an Ampro grinder of a 2.5hp 50 litre compressor. I had to stop heaps because the compressor couldn't keep up. So a 2hp 30litre from SC would do very little. Compressor =$200 - $300 Grinder = $50 - 100. Microgrinders are more expensive but kiwi tools on trademe sell them cheap. Carbide Stone = $50 - 90. I payed 65 for an egg one from george henry. Their retail price was $86. Once again check Trademe. Give yourself 2 weeks to do outside of work hours. I know the roughening ensures fuel droplets remain, but I wonder if it has something to do with Golf ball theory. At certain airflow velocitys and radii of curvature, the turbulent flow can remain attachached around the curve better than laminar flow. I Might look into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 If you have a spare head. ahve a go. Good learning experience. I'll be tackling the pinto head soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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