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Making a Bootlid Opener


Guest WESTCORT

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Guest WESTCORT

yeah man most of my clips are fucked though... i got the front guard one, chopped one end, then filed and trimmed the other, looks sweet as can only tell when ur up close. cheers for that aye

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Yall mean an automatic boot popper? Its a wee solenoid motor thats hookedup 2 da lock n mounted in the boot (or lid if u get a small enuf 1), wired onto power, earth? and a button on dash.

I can find out more if ya want, dads got 1 in the charger, my bro had one in all his escorts...dead easy 2 hook up.

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Guest freedz

U could do a cable one if u cant fit the solinoid in.

Drill 2 holes in the release arm and put the cable u scavenged into it loop back and clip with wire joiner, put return spring on.

Make sure to fasten cable at regular intervals to eliminate play.

When u get the cable get the lever too and make sure its easy to mount.

You can make a housing/mounts up out of steel.(may be able to use the original???)

The electric openers are good though, just hope it dont fail, as u may not be able to get in the boot if you blank off the keyhole(security measure) and sux if your tank filler is in the boot and /or your battery.

Also too much angle in the cable will make it tough to pull the release lever.

If you do go for the cable make the housing solid and be sure that its properly secured.

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Guest WESTCORT

i put $20 on those openers and didnt hit the reserve :?

i found freedz idea a tad hard to follow so if u do yours dave be sure to take some pics! :D

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What freedz is basically saying is drill a hole in the lock arm and fix a cable to it. When you pull the cable it will pull back the arm and open the door...easy. You can also start by just looking how your key operated lock works and replace the mechanism with just a cable pull..again easy!

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It usually coupes that have the cable variety,and would be a bit hard 2 pull off in a 4dr.

Reason being that u gotta get the cable as straight as possible with the least amount of shit in the way.

You cant really run the cable under the carpet coz there would be alot of resistance w/ rubbing against the carpet n floor.

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Guest freedz

Yeah thats the one Dave,

just remove the locking mechanism, drill your holes (its hard steel, and curved so lil tricky (but you know that , center punch no freehand sorry) and put one high up to maximise leverage from cable (youll need it), and one hole lower for the return spring to return cable and release lever (not too stiff a spring or youll need a crowbar to pull your activating lever).

Ive not had a problem with friction from carpet cause the cable housing/tubing is spring steel all the way.

The cable can (as far as ive tested) perform with a fair amount of bending as long as its fastened at regular intervals.

Oh and take the cable out and clean cable and its housing/tubing and give it some siliglide or similar to lube it so its nice and free, and easy to pull.

When you cut it to lenght gromet the ends, if youre removing a stopper (holds cable into the lever) make new one from tiny pipe, drill through middle of pipe (horizontally) bore one side a fraction larger to make a step so when you solder in the cable the solder grabs the step and wont let the cable pull through also flare the cable before you solder so it acts as a plug and the solder isnt doing all the work, this is important as if the hole you drill in the stopper doesnt have any taper to it the solder will just pull straight through the hole.

Due to the many bends you have no doubt put in the cable and the resulting load on it.

Wich is also why the unit wich holds the activating levers (boot & petrol cap) must be secured firmly so when you pull hard it doesnt rip out. The more angular the bends the harder you pull.

Its simple enough for you dave and for you other guys i hope i described it a bit better this time.

Oh yeah dave about your wiring man im no expert but i just removed the whole lot and used the multimeter and a test light took me a week and my loom is alot thinner than before i removed all the earths that were to the same ground and made one common one for the lot and branched the rest got rid of afew wires, and even though i added spotters another heater circut stero and dashsh etch and stems and the rest its still smaller loom now and fits a treat i reckon youd be no worries at it mate id give it a go first then if you cant do it let that sparky work for his money and fix it up. sweet guys im off for a cuppa.

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Nice one mate. Yeah I have stripped a loom before but in this case I want to start from scratch so was going to have a go myself, but then the worry of fire put me off. Its really just because I am trying to mate brand new electronics to 80's and 70's electrics. I also have lamps, heater front and rear screens that take a big amp pull so am looking to keep them all seperate. I also want to bin the old fuse box and fit three seperate modern type boxes inside the car. I am also a lazy get!! :D

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