GARDRB

A possible drawback of that would be reversing the bumpsteer in the rear wouldn't it? So instead of the spring getting longer and moving the wheel back under compression the spring would get shorter and pull the wheel forward? I'm not sure how much toe this would introduce and the other side would obviously move with that wheel, and I'm probably overthinking it?

I saw a video on Instagram of a guy who forgot to put his sump plug washer on using his shop vac to pull an vacuum in his crank case through the oil filler while he pulled his sump plug out and put the washer on. It could have just been instagram reel magic, but it seemed pretty legit

Little bro bought himself an Alfa and has a fancy Toyota sewing machine, and wanted to try pressing a logo into some vinyl so that he can do his interior eventually. Other than the fact he told me after I'd printed it that he was pressing from the front rather than the back, our first test worked out quite well.

Is 108 really that high though? My mate's SSS Sentra that we've just put a SR20VE into has the fans come on at 100.

Dearest Clint, After reading on here that someone had to move their brake lines away from their driveshaft, I read this in my July 2022 copy of the Hobby Car Manual. I'm putting a 1uz into a ke70/ce71/dx wagon, which has the brake and fuel lines running down the tunnel from factory. 1) Do I need to re-route these lines? 2) If I don't re-route them do I need two drive-shaft loops on my single piece driveshaft? 3) Can I make a shield of sorts to protect these lines instead? 4) Am I correct in thinking that the 150mm mentioned above is out of date and contradicts the 250mm in 9.24.1?

I would go for those struts that @fuel suggested if it were me. The reason coilovers have the thread on bottoms is so they only have to manufacture a small range of inserts and then thread different bases onto them to make them work in different cars. You also shouldn't be adjusting the ride height with the base, just the spring perch. I'd put bilstein inserts in those fancy aftermarket rears and a get a threaded collar that will drop over the shock and attached to your cert man's satisfaction. This guy knows his shit... https://stech.co.nz/ and does a lot of rally car stuff. P.S. just realised I'm over a month late to the party... oops

Square plug 1uz alternator is supposed to be 130amp

Especially once you see a Cedia being converted, it’s pretty crazy

Higher fuel needs in the midrange point towards the Garage1NZ Super Octopus SPL Header picking up strong midrange ga1NZ?

Oh fuck yeah, this is a bucket list car for me

The other day when we were cruising around Zebra there were two turbo colts there, I hadn't been so excited about a mitsubishi in a long time. Is this a cedia motor?

It’s a pity it doesn’t log how many times you’ve loosened and tightened the cam caps, that number must be up there?

So much 2nz blood on the floor

My cousin’s 3uz Hyundai h1 gets similar to that, I didn’t believe it till I saw it, must be modern engine things

Makes me wonder what other car noises he can transcribe

Don't both routings just need to be of legal volume? If only we had a certifier in this thread somewhere....

I'm torn between team @yoeddynz and team @Roman for my next purchase

Yep, a pencil sized forging is still a pencil sized forging

Oh true, David and I had been discussing putting the Prius pistons in the 2nz so my brain was still there.

That seems super low? Is that a typo?

When's your WOF due? You gonna put it back to standard and get a wof while its apart

Larry from Endyn who builds the crazy Honda motors says that RPM stands for Ruins Peoples Motors

Next we’ll be seeing a 7mgte 90 series supra

At what amount on the give a little will you go for hayabusa??

Flexfuel, diesel or methanol