Llama

Well being british it's probably doing the usual and rust-protecting the underside from every seal possible Is this just when it is cold? What is compression like?

White smoke is typically coolant, which is not good. Is it hard to start if it has been sitting?

My dad works with this guy, http://www.procadsys.co.nz/handyscan-3d-scanners/ and good 3D scanners will set you back $10000s (at least last time I checked). Not sure how much it would be for a one-off scan though

Sorry, meant babington burner. Essentially uses compressed air to atomise a fuel flim flowing over a small hole

Then you can burn all the free waste oil you can get Going to be a babbitt oil burner?

I'll be sure to put up a thread when I get it going. The prototype will be a little one, probably for jewelry size casting and brazing. But if the design works, I'll get some bigger capacitors and probably try for three phase.

Sweeeeeeet. What do you do your melting with/in? I'm looking at getting a crucible made for my induction furnace when the bits arrive from from the states

How does TIG fare for out of position welding? I've never seen anyone do up/downhill or underside stuff.

Well, this is gone. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way. Slightly sad, but it also gives me the money and time to pursue other things. Don't think I'll be getting another car for a while, my plans for now are to get the motorbike going, then will be going to Japan and spending money on other projects.

Hmmm. Duno if I can be bothered walking. Might catch you cats later then.

2v2, someone needs to make exec decision.

Mexican cafe is closer for me so it gets my vote, although I'm pretty sure I got sick from the chicken there last time. The station cafe/restaurant is pretty amazing, and $6 for a normal sized $10 for a huuuuuge one. Anzac ave might be awkward for some though.

Hah, half the way to the 12V conversion already!

On the CB I have points gap of 0.3-0.4mm, which works out to be around 0.015 at maximum /useless post Make sure the low tension lead or points are not earthing anywhere on the frame. Wiring looks fine, it's exactly how the CB is done.

Did you get to keep all the horses/animals?

Arrrr. Well, it lights up like a freaking christmas tree, so that's a bonus. However, after a few seconds running it seems to choke and die. Will run, but not under any load, won't even make it up our street (although to be fair, neither can your mum). Have doubled checked points (which are new) and plug gap, reset carbs. Also has new condensor. Pulled the plugs and they are rather black looking. Main question being: Does a weak spark cause incomplete combustion causing fouling? Otherwise that would mean it's running too rich?

Fuel economy is for chumps/dutch/just TPS that shit.

Coil defo need replacing with a 12V variant. Starter relay (if it has one) could need changing too. The horn will probably be OK with 12V, but don't quote me on that. You should be able to pick a regulator/rectifier of any 12V modern bike and it will probably work. How many windings on the alternator? Because if the alty wont charge 12V then you could stick two together for that.

Right! think I have this sorted. Turns out you can get continuity though the battery, so my tests were doing nothing helpful. Doh! Took the battery out and tested the circuits individually with a 12V supply (old drill battery charger...). One lamp had a bad earth, and turned on all the dash lights when the indicator tried to work... Aside from that I also figured that the old 3 terminal flasher must have not been stock, as the wiring diagram has it wired up like bubbleGs above. Just need to go pick up a three way terminal and splice some extra wires in. Cheers all!

Ahh, I get that. Will require some re-wiring, but that shouldn't be too hard.

2 pin. At the moment the whole bike flashes on and off with the indicators, which is why I was checking for shorts, and noticed the light sockets have continuity (with everything off)

Hmm. Don't quite get what you mean with the flasher bubble. So it doesn't just stop current off and on like someone flicking a switch lots? Wiring diagram has a 2 terminal flasher, but the old one was a 3 unit. EDIT: Yeah, outer casing is ground, but that should mean that the dot in the middle is connected to 12V when the switch is on and the flasher is on the "on" pulse right?

So, still trying to sort out the CBs indicators. The indicators have the typical one-terminal-bayonet type fitting, however, with the bulb out, there is continuity between the dot in the middle, and the outer casing. Is this correct? It doesn't seem right to me. This happens with 2 of the indicators I tried (couldn't get the other two apart), and even when I pushed the terminal right to the back (as if there was a bulb in place). According to the wiring diagram the lights should go straight to earth.

I may have sold the MG by then. But I may have also registered the CB by then.

Not likely anymore, project due tomorrow that has gone haywire.