Evan

No.

I saw RE003s on a flat deck hilux the other day.

Why no petrol? It’s not like you’ll be moving it every day

FYI @MRWEST Povo spec US model FCs had 4 stud brakes - not sure what diameter the rotors were vs 5 stud but rockauto might be your friend here...

International T2670

You’ve got to go get this now.

12a bridgy, modgies, supertrapp

Yeah going over epoxy. There’s a very slight wavey-ness in the panels where the replacement piece has been welded in (read: lower door skins, lower section of rear 3/4s) need something to try and smooth that out so seeing what people have had success with. not sure where you draw the line between between high build primer/polyester filler/bog/paper mache?

Was waiting for you to chime in with Protec haha, got a link for which type/model number specifically? Catalogue List seems to be as long as your arm..

Anyone got any high build primer recommendations?

When I looked into it ~5 years ago I only found 3 types of 15in tyres that were manufacturer rated for a 10in wide rim, there's the Pirellis(?) that go on the back of a Countach/ 930 Turbo. some other high sidewall tyre and the only low profile tyre I could find was the Avon Semi slicks that go on the back of the fancy pants Caterham - these were $500/piece from memory. just a side note if you care.

@Roman please DIY some superaccurate thermostat controlled oven that has ramp control. Post PowerPoint slideshow displaying results pls.

Autoblast from memory are $275+ GST/ hr. I got a text from them last month saying they were doing 15% off their rustproofing system for the month of March, if you go that way might be worth asking if they’ll still honour that.

I imagine that was made with prepreg? Which would make alignment possible

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCsx-HTIYPn3CiBQFd4rMyXw That guys done some cool stuff too making Carbon panels for hi Volvo Amazon.

Hopefully someone picks up the tech and carries on, want me an Endo CVT

I’m sure it’s possible, I’ve only ever run those discs on a polisher and it works well.

Nylon strip discs - don’t put them on an angle grinder as it will spin them too fast and put too much heat into the panel, put it on a variable speed polisher so you can turn the rotating speed right down - it still removes the paint/bog but minimises heat (which warps panels). One disc will also last ages also. these things are what you’re after: https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-car-polisher-180mm/558317.html#q=Polisher&start=20&sz=60 https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/3m-clean-and-strip-disc-178mm-purple/p/265294

The crossover pipe at the back of the heads in the below photo, can you unplug that heater hose and confirm there’s water in there/put some water in there? It looks like an obvious place for and airlock - I mean, how does the air get out of there? Also Google says thats a common place for an airlock and apparently it’s worse if you jack the front of the car up when filling the cooling system

Put the OG manifold back on

Still got the old water pump that you could put back into it?

Worth getting the radiator cleaned out first to confirm its not partially blocked before you go pulling cylinder heads off? / convert it to meth

Tried turning the heater on (I’m assuming it;s hooked up?) in case there is an airlock in that loop that’s upsetting coolant flow?

I assumed they had swapped the mounts on the disco axles based on that article but maybe not? I’m sure Himalaya had a write up on it that I read awhile ago but I can’t find it now.