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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. Took the day off yesterday because i missed the bus, so took this thing down to my usual WoF place. For some reason i only took this blurry potato while it was up on the hoist. GREAT SUCCESS! (one of the two number plate lights blown but he passed it on the basis i would replace it asap) Celebrated by slopping drippy subway all over the seats and my pants ate my lunch watching the kite surfers hoping for a massive tangle up Bought this on the way home too, hopefully slow down the cancer a bit In other WoF advisory related news, changed the brake pads on Lady Azzurro's daily, i think we got our monies worth! And after tidying a lot of crap from on and under this thing, pumped up all the tyres and dropped it off the axle stands for the first time in nearly two years,
  2. You are a man of class and exclusive taste sir.
  3. - made up an exhaust support from the gear box to the bit before the flexis, similar to how the 125 is set up - put a blob of weld on one holey weld (one! ) - took it for a hoon. Sounds great from inside, very quiet on cruise but a bark on the throttle and right at 2000 rpm and 4000rpm - rear pipe was touching the tow bar so adjusted the donut joint. - You can see the Y joiner at the rear seat, thought i may have needed a muffler in this section but it will hopefully be fine Only one sunny day this weekend, so did a few other little jobs, - after coil and resistance chat earlier in the week i checked the voltage at mine, it was about 10v. Based on googling its number to find out its specs, i think its a Ferrari or 6 cylinder Alfa ? came in a job lot so iunno) its quite a big larger diameter than usual anyway. Didnt even get warm on full 14V checked it after a exhaust sound test run . Si used the power from the fuel pump relay (already triggered by the factory coil feed) to power the coil and it seems a bit less missy when cold. Which reminds me I need to get a new Magnetti Marelli dizzy cap - there are cheaper versions out there but they are not very good. - also adjusted the idle mix on the carb a smidge richer, and i could slowed the idle speed a little more too. Engine now ticks away lovely, with a nice burble that you can only hear from the end of the exhaust, i think that the old one had quite a few more holes i didnt spot. - gave the headlining a scrub, and pulled out carpets, removed rubbish etc. - Put in a pretty subtle magnetic phone holder. - Gave it another wash, and then a wipe with an old polishy towel. Needs some more protection. I reckon its ready for a run to the WoF man one day soon.
  4. Lovely work. Im sure your old friend is looking forwards to many more roadies.
  5. I assume UJ means running a ballast coil with no ballast resistor, as this will be the case where a coil expecting 6-9v is running off permanent 12-14v, otherwise the output of the two systems on the output or HV side (which is in the 20-40kV range) should be pretty similar. The advantage of the ballasted set up, is on cranking as they get MORE than their normal or rated voltage when the starter is cranking (with the resistor by passed, but the starter cranking, the coil might see say 11-12V), which is when you need the strongest spark, but the coil (and seemingly the points which should only be handling the 12v ground side switching) cant handle this for long. I dont imagine a non-ballasted coil on 12v will hurt the points, but running a ballast coil with no ballast installed could, i guess
  6. Correct. - the resistor will be bypassed when cranking, so depending on your starters draw, the coil might see >9V temporarily (bigger spark when turning over), the issue is that it cant handle it for ages (ie normal running) I dont think so, unless your starter draws so much battery current that the voltage drops at the coil sufficiently that it no longer fires or has a weak spark (ie the problem the resistor was designed to fix, still exists) If it does, then wire up a resistor (and a coil to match) as per the factory, otherwise enjoy having the same voltage at the coil as all the other electrical components in your vehicle?
  7. GT40R stands for Resistor (not Racing), so it probably blew because it had too much voltage going into it if you dont have a resistor installed (and your measure of the power at the coil was = to battery voltage, right - ie not with engine/alternator running whcih would be 14V+ so 12v when running would imply some resistance) The R is added to older cars because of voltage drop when cranking with older battery tech, so the coil still works, tricky bit is that it is UN-resisted when cranking (getting all the volts avalaible) but needs to be resisted when its not cranking/alternator is spinning else it blows up If you going to get another coil go with an unresisted set up (ie GT40, no R)
  8. So plan is - twin 45mm (or 1 3/4") for most of the length, which matches the existing twin pipe from the manifold to the Y that is a muffler shop replacement that i will keep a very small part of, - into a single 57mm (or 2 1/4") pipe to match the existing rear muffler, that i cribbed from bits from the Croma Turbo i wrecked This was way more expensive than i thought, especially as a bought a nice new welder to do it with. Even my man-math was struggling. After watching some youtube and doing some actual math i started with making the new Y section from which everything else will be built from. and went forwards from there. The Y is right at the back of the floor pan and actually has a kick up towards the diff. Shiny stuff to the ex croma over the diff section And painted with some BBQ paint Pretty flash for a driveway job! Ended up using only the first 50cm or so of the old secondaries but turned out nice in the end. Shit is tight getting in and out. This is the new front section against the old part, the new Y joint ends adjacent to the white bit on old pipe so ive extended the primaries by like 2 meters. Unfortunately didnt take any photos of the whole thing as the rear half was installed so i could ensure the front half lined up Buttoned it all up just before dark and its surprisingly quiet, probably because i was used to the old blowing exhaust, but has a proper FIat rasp at around 2000 rpm or stabbing the throttle and seems to free rev a wee bit better. Tightening it all up properly means it now has no leaks, but it rattles on the cross member, i want to put a support off the gear box and I remembered that i forgot to weld in a O2 sensor bug so another couple evenings tweaking and upside down welding before a road test and butt dyno.
  9. Last* Wof fix job, the exhaust is chuffing (again) Lots of holes around the Y joiner Ive been here before And i wasnt the first rest of it not much better, ive cobbled this together with left overs and junk, and the rest is squashed and crunchy. . Time for something better The Abarth 2300S exhaust (second from bottom) is long twin pipe to a single over the diff then back into a twin tip. I6s apparently like having a long separation between the 2 groups of 3 cylinders, so lets do that too.
  10. finally adjusted the clutch pedal properly relative to the master cylinder, the various adjusting nuts are very high under the dash and not made for human hands. Yay. However in doing so i broke the light switch out of the column, with my head. This is the third? time ive done this, the car cam with no end of hacks to get around the broken one it had, i got this off another 2300 nut as his spare, and it broke in the box on the way home, you can see the lump of JB weld on the front indicator To be fair they are pretty weak design relative to the spring and ball bearing they act against, and with the plastic being so old they just bust out. ITs also a special snowflake* because it spaces the column change ball and the outer steering column, so we must make do. (* for Eg found this NoS one http://www.epocacar.com/shop/en/internal/8933-devio-luci-fiat-2300-s-13-fili-nos.html for 213EUROs and its not even the one in my ca, its the one in the book ) Good ol JB Weld, (other epoxies are available), tricky to get them 'moulded' without slopping it down into the guts as well, but the old tape dams and several thin layers did the trick The 'ear' had also fallen off the indicator switch end, my boy donated one of his 20 sided dice to the fix Took the opportunity to clean and grease all the mechanisms including the gear lever control centre operational
  11. Last few weeks ive been fiddling with this between rain showers. Starting my using my special tool Ap. 5030/7 for ignition timing inspection: The photo above is after adjusting it back form about 14deg (not a bad eyeball!) rather than 12deg, using the adjusting wheel on the dizzy However all in advance is significantly more than the 36deg max shown on the tool, so might have to look at limiting that in the dizzy. Gave it a quick wash, needs a proper polish and wax and some cavity and underbody wax . Assumed the position When i picked it up from storage i had to clean out the carb of fine brown grit. This was the fuel filter, pretty sure its rust from the lines or tank, but it was not new and could have been from itself? Either way, well over due. Chucked one of these electric fuel pumps in, same as the ute, mainly to to save cranking for ages when its been sitting while the mechanical diaphragm pump sucks gas up from the tank This is the cheap fuel filter after about 10 minutes (you can see the e-pump above it) . However its not got any worse than that after a lot more idling etc, so I might put the nice new K&N replaceable filter glass one in soon.
  12. All blue? nioce. However, Turk would look even better with a white roof and wheels, and maybe white below the crease in the body? Or will that just shift it from 'ex-Downer yellow truck' to 'ex-Mainfreight blue and white truck'?
  13. Those rims project that sir has a slightly caddish sensibility. Top show, old boy
  14. @Nominal mentioned me in Spam the other day, and i had actually been thinking how it was just rusting way, again... About time for an update from @azzurro - probably rusting away again. ___ Its pretty much been sat in this barn since my last post a year ago, except for when the barn was used for a wedding and it got pushed outside - groom was italian and stoked with it, and apparently it was used as a prop and is in some of the wedding photos, lol Its always been a bit of a pig to start when its been sitting for more than a day or two (first pop otherwise) as the fuel pump takes a long time to suck gas up from the tank, and the slightly flat battery wouldn't have lasted. It was also running a bit flat/missy when i put it away. I cranked it for a bit hoping for a miracle, but before i flattened the battery I pulled the carb top off to fill the bowl with gas, but it had a lot of brown sludge in the bowl so took the whole thing off and gave it a quick dismantle on the ute tail gate. Also adjusted the linkage to get full secondary opening, and with some gas in the bowl it fired up pretty much straight away A quick check of the brakes, lights and etc, and swapped spots with the ute, patted the resident donkey, and drove it home no worries at all. Its such a lush cruiser, its supposed to have 85 series tyres so its pulling 3500 rpm in 4th at 100, so while its more than happy there, its nicer to take it easy. However, it sounds great with a hole in the exhaust - the secondary opening fully has also given it a bit more top end howl too, and the small 6 is so smooth. Drive reminded me of a few small things I had on my list that need doing for a WoF - Ill install an electric fuel pump as per the utes set up (i bought two for this reason) - the exhaust needs replacing between the manifold and the rear door - i backed into the rear bumper with my old van and so i need to check out the spare one - check the ignition timing - so far has been done by guessing - there are no timing marks on the engine (they are on the flywheel requiring timing to be set with the engine running on a stand - what the flip), OR, you need a special tool. Well this NOS bad boy turned up on trademe for $15 so i bought it NOW. Looks like a precision tool, but it kinda jams between the water pump and timing chain case, and then the hole in the blue part fits over a bolt and dangles over the crankwheel. More fiddling to follow
  15. Good plan. If you draw/ mist some primer round the new panel onto the car and through the hole onto the panel will give you min/max cut lines on both and a better idea how much panel you have to play with/ how much more you could chop out. You could also self tap the panel in (temporarily) and run the cutting disc between the two lines above to make a nice matching seam to butt weld. As long as you have the panels nicely lined up, take your time and some flap discs theres no reason that seam would be visible when its all finished
  16. great work man, as usual love the wee video, each time gaining a wee bit more speed and confidence. engine note is suitably angry, but in kind of a cute way, "ohhhh look at the cute widdle puppy trying to be tough and growly - whos a good boy? you are. yes you are" gggggrrrr
  17. IMO you only want butt welds where you joining mid panel to mid panel so its invisible, basically where you are replacing rusty sections with new panel sections. Use lap joints (with plug welds) to replicate the factory spot welds where they would have existed before. Lashings of seam sealer to keep the moisture out of the overlap. As Valiant says, there is a bit of trick to thinking about the order of assembly re getting the grinder or mig torch in especially in the inner corner of the floor - eg maybe butt weld the floor section in, build up the inner sill to the new floor datum, build the outer sill (butt to the fender and sill, plug on the bottom lap) and plug weld the floor lap to the new inner sill last. Also that patch looks pretty rusty - best to cut more out untill you get to good metal, as its easier to make a bigger patch now, than try to weld to rust and then redo the repair in a year when the weld blows out.
  18. Intersting the engine capacity, config and induction fields dont or maybe cant mention the ~50kw hybrid part. Any prius powered conversions in the db yet? What would they say?
  19. so flash! have those michelin tyres on mrs_azzurros Healing Cruiser - probably the most expensive bit of all my cruiser/20 fleet armada
  20. V close, spanish 151 with a '92 casting date and 3 progression holes I set the butterflies on the bench to there and also with a torch on the car a couple times to balance visually but not looked lately now they are balanced Pretty sure low float levels/ excessive angle was/will be messing with my tune, beyond any design flaw, as while theres still a small stutter its nowhere as bad now i gave the inside/lower float a wee tweak
  21. bit more carb tutuing, upped the main jet to 135, better on transition, but maybe too rich on WoT. diddled with the the idle mix, ok, but still a bit funny. Read and reread my various carb books. decided to tweaked the floats, as the carbs are on a 12* angle to horizontal, (max recommended is 5*), the lower or inside side float will tend to cut off the needle valve earlier than it should making the fuel level low, especially in the upper or outside fuel well: ...and as it is written, so it comes to pass... Bent the inside float up a bit, and left the outer as it was (factory 25mm). Average fuel level is probably still a bit low, but too high will be bad too. WAAAAAAAY better now, i think the idle jets were sucking a bit of air every know and again or something, and the progression flat spot is much improved as the ETs have a few more holes covered. Tweaked the timing a bit more advanced as well (12-15* at idle) and the whole thing is now much livelyer. Idle is smoother and i leaned it back to a 'steady' 13.5 AFR, at 800rpm, when before it wouldnt idle under 1000rpm or 12.5 AFR At WoT AFR is dipping into the low 10s sometimes even the 9s, so i will try the 125 mains again. Time for a few other things (there is always something!) REDUCING NOISE Steering tie rod vs exhaust downpipe interference caused a disconcerting rattle though the steering wheel on hard right (parking style) turns These pipes are 80's muffler shop specials and will be replaced eventually, meantime a wee tickle from Mr Grinder on the excess threads appears to have the desired effect INCREASING NOISE 'customised' some op shop $5 low impedance (6ohm) speakers using a skill saw, ply offcuts and builders adhesive that i really think have nailed the 'builders least favourite apprentice' aesthetic. They fit under the back of the seats where no one can see them, and are 11ty times better than the old 4inch pioneer box speakers, and were within my budget, I am not ashamed. Related, I also installed a switch so the head unit will run without the key in the ON position (dash lights on, fuel pump chunting away). This hack is needed because my 'cheapest on ebay' Ducato ignition switch doesn't have a flippin ACC position. Now that's austerity. Chucked on a new sticker holder sticker And piled the girls in for a hoon. For the first time it feels like its actually running well, which means i will be using it quite a bit more.
  22. Mine dont quite go that lean (22 = no gas?) , but there is a definite stumble and AFR peak on some low throttle transitions How did you solve it? Reading my new books suggest a range of potential causes/solutions: - idle jets to small, (45 fitted - i recon they will be slightly on the side of too big if anything) - idle mix too lean (AFRs say 12ish at idle, yet to plug chop to see what they say, and all the books say 'give the engine what it wants' to idle best ) - throttle plate position relative to 1st progression hole at idle incorrect The last two only require a screwdriver and time, the first one requires $ and new jets, and i dont think 45s are too small on a very mild 1600.
  23. I will count them soon, they are all in the 1.5 to 3 turn range, idle AFRs are in the 12-13 range with small adjustments either way was making a big difference. I will richen it up a bit no longer an issue after remove, trim and refit 'is it possible it might be messing with me' he asks! "possible"? POSSIBLE!!!!111!!1 (shakes head walking away, throws arms up dramatically)
  24. For Future reference: Weber 40 DCOE 151 on Fiat 1585cc twin cam: Main Jet 125 Main ET F9 Main Air 190 Idle Jet 45 F9 Accell Pump Jet 45 Chokes 32 Venturi 4.5
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