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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. Saturday Morning! Fffff. I had my honing all done by then and would have had to go back into big town to get it and that would have cut into my 'not being in town' time. Visor is pretty flash alright, shame its still yours (hope you like the paint job i did on your visor )
  2. Ended up picking up a three legged hone on the way home from work on Friday and spent a sunny weekend putting this back together between surfs. A flex-hone was preferred but they are not existent in NZ on short notice, but are readily avalaible on Ebay, but aint nobody got time fo dat. I honed it just enough to remove the glazing, so a few bits saved for a future proper rebore, "one day" The rust spots in Cylinder 4: Ring wear marks at the top of cyl 6. The flat hone stones makes them look much worse than they are (flex hone would have hidden them), as I can barely see any variation with a straight edge (you can aslo see the hone 'just' scratching them in a couple of spots, so only a couple of thou) but they are there all the same. Just hope they dont 'catch' the new rings too bad. I used the Geotze expander rings of my choice of two sets (the other a more 'normal' set of Grant rings) - i figured with the wear on the cylinders + a hone, that all the expansion i could get would be appreciated. Ring gaps were also slightly above spec meaning the engine is a bit more worn than STD, but the blow by cant be any worse than it was! Made a small dowel from a brass barb from a busted fuel pump to help line up the head on the block and keep the head gasket in place (headless twin cam head bolts I use for the 125 also used in the bigger diameter head bolt holes when dropping the head on) And ended Sunday with the thing back in the hole after resetting the tappets etc. Much easier with the engine out (there is no crank nut to turn on the crank nose due to the centrifugal oil filter) While its out Im also working on a few improvements The 2300 Starter is a bit hit and miss even with a 'new' (ex 125) solenoid - the Delta GTI (might be Croma) starter will 'bolt up' but the pinion has 10 teeth to the 2300s 9, and the teeth will foul on the flywheel without a 5mm spacer, which will also need shaping to fit in the slightly larger diameter hole to help the 2 bolts hold it in place. Alternatively looks like the motor mounting diameter in the aluminium 'nose' is the same, so might be able to swap the bodies over, and maybe the pinions/teeth too? Anyway, something to keep in mind for the future.
  3. Sharn discount? $5200! Tell 'im ees dreamin.
  4. Nice work! Cant believe how similar in design concept this is to my 2300 wagon, differs slightly in execution but definitely very similar ideas about how to best put together a car. I guess Pininfarina needed to make some money flogging off the same 3 box design a few times to save up for the coke to fuel all their concept car + model photo shoots a few years later.
  5. Be cool if you could ask for sure! I have found a place in Aussie with one in stock (ex UK). Also a dude locally who can get them in (from same place in UK that has a mould). Screens themselves are $4-700 which is fine, but getting them here is big $$). Ive tried the big NZ screen distributors but they don't respond to emails, and there were only ever 100ish cars in NZ that needed one, most would be gone to the big rust pile in the sky, so it will be dust collecting in the back of the rearmost corner of the oldest warehouse if they are anywhere. Unfortunately I cant claim the screen on insurance for them to sort it out as its unwarranted/registered (on hold) and ive not insured it yet
  6. This is the worst cylinder, (#4) the horizontal markings are just that, rust marks from where the piston was parked, and I cant feel them. The vertical score that ends just above the marks in the center just catches my fingernail. I think a quick hone and new rings, while not ideal will be fine for now Crank is very good, factory markings Factory stampings on the block, never skimmed I degreased the whole block and gave it a water blast with hot water. OMG the rusty crap that came out of the jackets was next level! After that a Quick clean up with a paint stripping disc on the drill: Ive cleaned up all the components and once i get a hone it will be reassembly time. Cant wait.
  7. This week I've been disconnecting stuff and finally got the box and engine out today. Pulled the head off complete and got into the bottom end to see whats up with low compression on 3. Err, that'll do it! An average of slightly greater than one broken ring per piston... (piston 6->1) Anyway, other than a broken ring on almost every cylinder (and all 3 on 3!), the bottom end seems good, if a bit grubby. - all original STD sized bearings, big ends look like new, mains have some slight wear (engine had excellent oil pressure) - all original pistons, on piston 6 the first compression ring groove is a bit splayed, i guess from the broken ring, other pistons seem ok. - cylinders all look really good with no lipping, apart from some horizontal lines halfway down most cylinders but esp cylinder 4 (probably from water sitting on the ring when it was parked up), and the odd vertical score that i can just feel with my fingernail. Ideally it needs a rebore and upsized pistons, decked block etc , but I have been looking for new pistons (in any size) since i got the car and no luck to date. As i have a couple of sets of std piston rings 'in stock' I will probably just give the cylinders a quick wazz with a flexi-hone, give it a good clean and put it back together with new rings, maybe main bearings and big ends if i can find them, but i might just keep collecting bits as i find them for a proper rebuild 'one day', cause im quite keen to actually drive this bloody thing, and the Kumeu Hot Rod Show is in January. Also 125 got a WoF, so that's summer driving sorted, and OldSchool Drag Day on the 10th December
  8. >14.4, sitting around 14.7v at the battery (which is in the boot) 14.8 at the batt terminal on the alternator. To be fair perhaps I should try the other $3 regulator I got in the packet from ali-express, but it was no worse than the original one so IDK. Electrics = Alien water
  9. good idea peeps! Chris, im in need of alternator work, mine seems to be overcharging even with a new voltage regulator. Something diodes something something?
  10. Have been making a box of stuff to take to swaps too. Will hopefully have the wagon engine back in by then
  11. fine work comrade. If you cant fix it with a hammer you have a ideological problem that can only be resolved by a long stint of hard labour. Or Vodka.
  12. Bit more polishing/sanding runs and putting the last of the bling on, looks nice out in the sun for a change The short drive and out of the shed confirms the engine has to come out, it starts and revs ok, idles away, quiet tappets, but blowby is silly, just steamy/smoking out the engine bay and a good coaster sized blob of oil under the bell housing (that only leaks when engine is running). Lesson learned - i should have pulled it completely apart to check and clean properly when i had the sump of the first time, i checked the bores and a couple of bearings and just assumed . So good timing for the main parts needed turned up from Mr Fiat ,Headgaskets x2, rear main seal (x2) and some random coolant hoses to buff out the shipping. I already have a set of std NOS rings i found cheap on ebay. IN winscreend news, AALAWS put me onto a chap who can get Screens made new (custom tinted) from a place in the UK for ~$500-650 which seems fair, BUT + ~$2200 for custom crate, insurance, shipping, GST and etc. Chucking even one additional screen in would halve the landed per unit cost, but even then its still $1800 bucks and a 12 week wait Fingers crossed for a NOS or second hand one a bit closer to home. I will try an actual phone call to the big windscreen warehouse places as their 'contact us' forms dont seem to generate any responses, but i have sent a rough template off too a guy who knows a guy with a shed full of old FIAT screens (amongst other stuff). I need to do some work on the 125 for drag day/wof , and have a big tidy out the lockup for a shuffle around( get the parts wagon in and parts 125 out stripped and off to the scrappers), so i dont think i will make too much more substantive progress on this for a while as im waiting to find a screen anyway and at least its complete, looks cool, and can move itself around.
  13. Stupid rust. So how big is the engine in there now?
  14. Soaked Cylinder #3 with some kero and 2 stroke oil (no ATF to hand) for a couple of days and got it warm enough for the fan to kick in for the first time (yay, it works!) when i rolled it outside for a wash and some wet sanding. Still 30-90 PSI depending on RPM, (other 5 are 130+) unsurprisingly engine runs better with it disconnected from the air filter. Most of that is steam/condensation not oil, but it is fair flying out! Also fitted Jed's old visor up, needed a bit of aggressive bending and the making of one clamp, but no trimming. It fits like it was made for it! Underside from inside Outside getting a very lazy wet sanding to 1500 grit. I have an electric buffer for the polishing stage. Used this in anger for the first time today, found it in the inorganics up the road a few months ago
  15. Few more little annoying and fiddly things done, list is getting very small now, pretty much - sort out windscreen, - get keys made for the external locks - wet sand/buff/polish the paint - start test driving not necessarily in that order Borrowed my neighbours compression tester again, 1, 2 and 6 are really good, 3, 4, and 5, ahh not so much. 3 is definitely the worst - 0-30psi cold even with extra oil in the cylinder, and it idles like its on 5 and removing #3 lead the least difference at idle but the engine does smooth out with some revs. This showed up as 3 4 and 5 that had much better pressure when the engine revved a bit - Hope i wasn't just measuring crank case pressure Will just try for a few longer runs soon and just maybe a bit of actual driving might sort it out I lapped the valves when I had the head off, a couple looked like they could have been replaced, but lapped up ok. I should have pulled the pistons out in retrospect, but all the bores looked good and I dint have bearings (also looked good - oil pressure is fine) or rings at the time. Best case, valve timing improves the compression, and a bit more hot running loosens the rings . Worst case I get to pull it out, strip it down again and install the NOS rings I now have + new valve guides (with proper seals) and new bearings and...and ....
  16. Cheers bro! Hope you found some treasure for yourself.
  17. Cheers all, I have sent emails to almost all the nz windscreen places on google, hopefully one will come up trumps! Other than a few pretty minor things, only the screen and concerns with engine blow by (which im hoping is gummy rings that will free up with more use) is stopping me from driving it a bit more, to find what else is wrong (new radiator?) before go see the wof man. ATT: Upper South Islanders and Upper South Island visitors! If anyone happens to be in Takaka, can they grab me the 2300 Manual that is in one of the op shops? xoxox
  18. wee bit more done, lots of fiddly jobs as i find, fix and bodge bits to reattach. After the oil in air filter drama of last time i tried to turn this around, I installed a catch can on the pcv valve to catch the oil before the carb and managed to get it backed into position. Squinting out in the light of day. I was having some real trouble with the wiring/column switch, i just couldnt figure out what was going on, but i have now figured it out after a eureka moment. It turns out - my car has a high beam relay which is not in any of the diagrams (my '69 125 didn't have one) - all 4 headlights had blown, - the column switch wiring only matches the loom about 1:3 colours! Also, i was using this particular brand of headlights (from the parts car), they bench tested good and looks good, and i was chasing all sorts of theories, because surely all 4 would not just work and then not work without warning or changing anything? Yep. Truly prince of darkness. Managed to get some Cibie semi sealed high beams + the Airport lenses for $30 from trademe, I paid more each for two no name hi/low sealed beams from Repco. Lights are all a gogo, just waiting on some H1 bulbs for the (inner) high beams and some orange bulbs for the indicators. Number plate back on, including the 'jewels' from the parts car - i need a couple of red ones so i can have them as port and starb'rd running lights. Dash all back in and working (except the clock), my aux illary guages are all go too, including a ratty Star Tacho that was bolted to the dash of my blue 125 when i first got it. Interior is all back in too: and stereo all wired up (a switch and headphone jack in the centre console (for ipod or phone) goes to an amp under the passenger seat that powers some boxed 6x9s in the boot), amp is powered off an auxillary fuse box/relays for electric fan and main beams, spotlight etc.
  19. Yes! These are super 80stastic and make me think of battlestar galactica for some reason. My favourite matchbox car need a blow off valve that snorts like a starlion! Neigh!
  20. Same, except the kid was fine, it was meeeee Mrs did bring home BF tho cause that's how we roll, so still counts right?
  21. I was chatting about custom screens with AALAWS too. Price is a bit higher than i want to pay, but reasonable for the work i guess, maybe i will get lucky and be the second guy who wants one! Who knows maybe Smith and Smith or whatever might have one in the back of the warehouse? Hopefully wont need to go custom but I probably will, as they are flipping easy to crack trying to get them out because of the huge curve on the edges and they are just laminated, but not safety glass.
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