azzurro

I removed the crappy stereo and looked at the wiring, sighed and pushed it back out of sight and started putting the front half of the interior back in over some 6mm foam which makes it a bit nicer to sit in while faffing about The old stereo was just sitting in a big hole in the dash as the factory (single centre) speaker cover is all broken too and my spare headunit (CD) was too long, so ive ordered a cheap 'retro' mechless bluetooth jobbie off aliexpress, as well as some gauges, (RPM and Voltage), and some other shit. To prep for this, i made up a dash panel for the stereo to mount in and ive had this cool gauge pod thing for ages and i think it suits the brittle black plastic aesthetic that the interior has going on (the screws are fake, lol) I only had to trim this massive gash a wee bit (on the bottom half) to get it in Bit of black formica over the top and jobs a goodun pending the headunits arrival. Will probably run oil pressure, a 52mm tach and voltage as the dash water temp gauge works fine. Sorry about the carpy photos it was dark.

this is actually barry genius*, its easy to work and shape holes to suit, and dead flat when installed, will insulate from heat soak and over time will expand to fill any gap and prevent airleaks. *Untill it catches on fire

fuck yeah, nice one galaxienoob! love the colour

only took one pic Will grab the Mrs phone and get her scooter shenannigans videos.

Ive also been doing mechanical stuff too, new engine mounts (and transmission mount too), they were all soft and bung, so should tighten everything up alot. got carried away, some rustoleum spray paint i got to try is not a match to the body so trying to use it up... New Starting reassembly, (after a waterblast and lots of degreaser!) incl new shaft seals to hopefully keep the oil inside. New waterpump , tensioner fitted and cambelt to go on too I dont have a crank nose seal so thats ordered for next week, so stuck here for now Also - Drained the radiator and removed it , cleaned out out the overflow (gross) , - drained the engine oil (gross) and filter, - checked the gearbox oil (way overfull, but clean), - drained the diff oil (gross) and removed the passenger side axle to replace the leaky seal but the 125 seals (30*48.6*6) wont fit, but 124 ones do (30*45*6) do, so i have them coming next week to finish that off too. The diff may therefore be a 124 type with 125 mounts selded on, if so then a Russian LSD could be a goer at some point. Tomorrow im heading up to storage to get rid of some stuff and bring some back down, will grab my 34DMS carb as the one on there is still leaking gas pretty bad even tho it works quite well otherwise, and will remove the mechanical pump that the electric one pumps into, that also leaks.

Bog, is boring so skipped ahead abit, the spare door cards were in the way, so sapped them over. This is what i had, which were ok apart from the massive holes and wobbles. And this is what ive got, 2x passenger side 125S (for Special!) door cards, complete with GOLD AND PURPLE trim. Passenger side swapped right in Drivers was a bit more of a mission. I ended up ripping the vinyl off to reverse the door card to reuse the factory holes for the door pop-clips and stuff, but better than before, and thats a job that is now finished! While i was in there I have also - cut down some foam for the underlay - removed the shitty stereo (will probably put a head unit back in with speakers in the kick panels, and gauges under) - removed the heater box - so i could access the hood opening mech (now sorted)

item 1 on the list above, section behind the rear wheel. From bottom to top, rusty section, CAD, and the patches 90% ready to weld in Then welded up the pie cuts and slits, checking against the car as it can warp, then welded most of it in from the inside where i could. Then my welder started playing up, all pops and burn backs and no penetration Turn out it was the new 5kg wire roll was quite a bit heavier than a nearly empty one, and got the wire speed set properly, after some long overdue maintenance. Ground most of that off and ran over it again with the revived sizzle stick, ground most of that off too, and here we are SO thats the rear half de-rusted, started on the first round of bog, and washed the dust down with a beer i got just so i could use my new opener

personally id grind that back and slap some paint on it before ol' Mate sees it edit beaten!

http://www.kumeuhotrodshow.co.nz/about.html Keeeeeeeeeeen. Its only down the road from me, AND i will in the country for it this year. Woot!

Ooh. A 2300 coupe! rare bird for sure. Thats 2 i know of in nz. Wheres the engine? Is it an 'S'? Looks like a proper fiat pest with the yellow 850 on the right and is that big silver car a 130 sedan on the left? (Would love a 130 coupe!)

I actually bought this not just because its cool, but because it was a similar price to a decent trailer, but with the benefit of being self propelled! Looking forwards to smug facing at the dump as i reverse up the small gaps between all the jack-knifed trailer + modern ute combos

more rust. I always think it wont take very long but it does. I tend to work in sections and batch things to the tools needed - saves trying to find that tool while your lying around on the ground, as its always in your hand. . Eg mark sections, drill all the spot welds, cut all the holes with the slit disc, tidy with the other grinder ends and powerfile etc. Then make all the CAD templates, cut all the steel, then fine work to get teh patch to suit the hole, weld, grind, weld pinholes, grind, sand, primer. Also means i can do a bunch of quieter stuff after work etc and do all the welding and especially grinding in a single annoying spurt on the weekend instead of a little all the time Section A Wheel Arches. Figured id get this done so i can loosely fit the tins and start pile crap back in there. Pretty much 3 matching areas both sides, plus a couple of random blebs out of shot Section B: Rear Valance etc Took the tow bar off to get into this area, this section is 'closed' (lol) from road debris form the wheels and tray areas and does not have very big drain holes (there are some humps in the inner section that his plugs to that face forwards...) so trapped wet grime sitting on the flat sections has made its own way out. First batch of patches. I should have replaced the whole bottom section right across TBH, i added a couple drain holes in the big patch which should help let dirt and stuff out (and cavity wax in). I will also seam seal before i underspreay as there isnt much on this car, and some of the gaps are pretty bad! Moving around to the passenger side, thought id get away with filling a few pinholes, but ive since done what i should have done the first time, and cut the corner off like onm the drivers side, as well as extended the big patch in the middle both ways. You can also see the strengthener on the flank where trapped muck and holed the side, below the bumper, from the inside out, and it was just the same on the other side. Got all the remaining patches for this area ready to weld in during the week some time. Remaining rust (i know about!) to be cut out, which isnt that much if you say it fast is: - 1 tricky to fold section if the rear lower corner of rear passenger wheel arch (just in front of the mudflap) - 2 & 3 holes/bands in rust trap factory positioning things that look like jacking points but are not... of outer floor section behind front wheels, both sides - 4 rear cab/floor area (will probably use rust cuts here) pass and drivers - 5 lower rear tray to tailgate seal lip, but can leave it till after summer/WoF , and will get a section bent up so i can spot it in easy, like the 2300 section in the same place

I meant a sedan, but yep i see they made an even uglier pickup too, but flat deck.

So a bit more digging today, i pulled out the interior, seats and carpets are fine to reuse, floors and sills and pillars are excellent. but there was a suspicious amount of no more gaps with a coat of bitumen spray over it on the rear cab/floor join, inside and the tray side. After lots of thinners soaked rags to get rid of the black tarry shit, and about an hour of wire brushing, and emptying the vacuum twice. That no more gaps sure is is sticky stuff! This is the passenger side from inside the cab and is the worst, drivers only has a couple of spots This is the drivers side from the tray side, and is the worst, but passenger side has a couple of hole too. Might be easiest to cut and shut ~100mm wide sections from a sedan floor as they never rust there. My red 125 body is in now in Hamilton and ive been meaning to grab some bits back off it so i guess thats moved up the list. This are will probalby be the last to do as a result. The cab wall itself is fine. More rust chasing I think i found the 'custombuilt' part of this truck. The vertical shock mounts have actually been removed and the angled setup installed. I didnt have a very good look underneath but it looks factory, so i wonder if its got 1500 bits under there. There are a few holes to fill in both inner arches due to the torn spot welds rusting. There are also matching holes in front of each arch where ive never seen a sedan rust. As well as adding rusty holes to the list, I crossed some off. The tail gate was rusted though in one corner, but now it isnt! I was in the zone and forget to take pics till i put the first coat of primer on, but you get the idea. Will need a skim of putty (especially to fill my wonky edge line!) but im pretty happy with that for the first patch.

Great spots! Would love to see the ad too. Pretty sure the 9 or so utes apparently in NZ were imported by a 'quirky' chap*, so unsure if there were any cars or not? A Caro** with a twin cam would be a real sleeper, but do not want. *dont know what that means, but thats what someone on t124 said **updated body that looks like an even fuglier 4 door Lada Samara still on the old RWD 1500/125 floorpan

^I can see in jons spotted photo that they are all still there, and the missing pink fade section behind the door has/had a kicking rad turquoise vajazzle on it

Nah, and ive just this minute taken the other ones off! I think they are pretty generic from a big roll type ones with a turquoise pin stripe tape over the silver

Cheers all, at this stage my plans are to clean it, fix what rust and niggles there is, make some secret compartments and then pootle about in it taking stuff to places. But probalby not in a purple lace prom dress with my bad ass wrekking krew Turns out these are longer than the 125 Belina (sedan), by around 300mm. This approach was also used for the Ambulance and Hearse body variants I found this pick online of someone doing a rust repair and have removed a lot of the bracing but, it shows the 300mm lengthening section (with the X ribs) between the what would normally be the rear passenger feet floorpan that extends behind the cab and the diff hump where the back seat would go. All that room wasted! No longer! The same thread also shows the sills which are 4 layered vs the 2-3 of the sedans to make up for the lack of roof stopping it folding in half This is an earlier model or a Polish spec one, as it has the shocks in the sedan arrangement (straight up from the diff). On mine (export spec? late model?) the shocks are angled inwards like an Escort (and my 2300) to a cross brace but the massive holes for the shocks are still there, but the load area is also much wider as a result. Like the 125 and 2300 it has no rear lateral support other than the leaves, but i think the angled shocks would do better than vertical ones in this respect.

Gooped up the carby and manifold last night with hylomar blue and put them together and tightened it up after work just earlier. The 'set' goop tends to act more like an o-ring, but HB never really sets so it will still sqush out the tighter areas. New fuel filter and a couple of new hose sections and clamps and it fired right up adjusted the timing (way too advanced) then set idle mix using highest vacuum manifold method and now more bogging or running on. In typical fashion however the starter no longer runs off the key, but easily rigged up an engine bay bypass and with the carb 'fixed' it starts super easy. Oh also the bonnet latch was super hard to open and now its cable is broken, lucky i was trying to adjust it at the time and had the catch nuts loosened.

the PO said they are about a foot longer wheelbase apparently, but i havnt checked this for sure and the floor pan didnt look any different so i reckon they are the same (ish) If you look at the 125 sedan the bonnet and front doors are quite short relative to the rest (big back doors/footroom and big boot) , i think the bed just highlights it more. He said he had a 200cc motorbike in it with the tray up, so its pretty good loadspace.

They did, the top model sedans ran this exact engine, and the standard polish fitted engine was also Fiat derived, but a 30 yo OHV pushrod design at the time. The lada engine was an all new russian design and single OHC

Cheers bro, will probably let one of the other 2 go now, probably the 125 sedan. Cheers bro. Is mesh, Is good. PO reckoned 9 were imported! The hotwires were pretty sweet, but not $1000 sweet, and I have 6 sets of other rims already, lol. Also for the sake of the hotwires, i saved 40% on the purchase price Cheapest maybe, some of the changes would have been more expensive to keep and are illogical, but Communism man. I reckon i will, its Custombuilt/Factory innit mayte... (the top sedan versions came with this exact engine) The original engine is 1481cc this is 1585cc, so 7% increase in engine capacity, but on power, 55.2kw for the late 1500 that this would have come with, vs 90-98hp depending on cams and pistons is 72kw, so a ~30% increase. Yeah, also noone knows what it is, so noone knows what its supposed to have, and its been like that for at least 11 years, maybe more?

Tell my why im a retard here:

INterior is pretty cool, the dash pod is almost exactly like the 2300 but black plastic. Cheap stereo im sure hides some wiring disasters, but allows FM to exit the 4" speakers so it can stay for now. PO was second owner and bought the vehicle with 30,000km, when it was 9 years old. it currently has 90,000kms. Door cards are pretty shot, guy gave me some cool spares, but they are 2x passenger side 125S (gold trim! Lights!) so the drivers side is going to have a couple of extra small holes instead of two massive ones Engine is a 1585cc 132B.000 Block with a 4301155 Head (factory from a 131 Mirafiori 1600) This is bolted to the FSO 5 Speed box using all factory mounts. The Carb is a twin throat Weber 32 DCHE 21 (from a later 125), presumably using the old carb on the newer block so the FSO linkages could be used. The set up it a bit janky tho, so thats on the list. Radiator is a 125 one (FSO one has an offset filler neck and tucks under the closing panel more) with a small pusher fan on the front. Water is gank, but id not use any or overheat so will just clean it out when i do the cambelt and waterpump. Might be a good excuse to get the aluminium RX3 radiator i have cut and shut. Finally whipped the carb off to clean up and investigate the poor starting and flat spots. Im no rocket surgeon but it brobably had a bit of an air leak which is why it run way better with a bit of choke. The accelerator pump 'jet' or valve int eh base of the float chamber was also unseated completely, which would have no doubt contributed to the flat spot. Its so buckled one of the throats is actually flatsided a wee bit, so Ive given it a rough sand on a flat block to flatten it a bit, and cleaned it all out, and will install it with plenty of Hylomar Blue so we will see. I have a spare 34DMS to try as well which ran fine on my old 1608cc. So yeah, pretty stoked so far, shouldn't take too much to get back on the road and utilized

And the rear: Tail gate is rusted on one corner, there is some patches in both the rear quarters, the area in front of the rear wheels have been repaired before on both sides, but otherwise it seems pretty good. all the pinholes will add up tho... Its got a tow bar. rear valance is a bit holey, and its the same on t'other side, and the rear quarter. THe inner tray tin is all removable to reveal, pretty much no rust in a 125 sedan floorpan. THe 125 boot well is covered over, as it the seat (and threaded seat belt holes), Even the 125 sedan vertital mount rear shock tubes are still there, open to the road below, even tho the Pickup has a 2300 style cross member and angled shock arrangement. Factory setup the spare is attached to the side of the tray infront of the rear wheel. The PO had cut the tin and fitted those big gate hinges to put the spare (with 135 width tyre!) under the tray and had the hump in the tonneau removed I will make try to the whole under tray where the 125 seat and passengers feet are into storage compartments. This all water blasted up nice and clean and a lot of mud came out of the wells