Jump to content

azzurro

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,878

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

 Content Type 

Everything posted by azzurro

  1. azzurro
    Flippin eck - will need to get a WoF on something and come stay for a change - whos keen for a compound? I have a pile of shit i should sort out and take to sell - will you be in the swappa area again Denham? Keen for some a commission based sales position ? bound to be one at the swap meet. Fit it in the carpark and you can claim were taking it to a place of repair on Mondey.
  2. azzurro
    Tortron is right. Easy set up and clean down is impotant but having a layout favourable to being able to keep the thing clean(ish) and not get in each others way while its pumping is the difference between having fun creaming it and a chore thats not worth it. Can i have a double with passionfruit and hokey pokey in a waffle cone please
  3. azzurro
    Coffee and rolled ice cream are both pretty time consuming and messy to make. Be surprised how much the demand crosses over too When busy you will need min 1 staff for each station and maybe a person taking orders - something to keep in mind when arranging the layout. Limit the flavours and have add ons like fancy cones and sauce/toppings for max revenue in min marginal time. Iced coffee (scoop, shot + ice) is also something people seem happy to pay too much for.
  4. azzurro
    watching this closely...for a friend* *Food/coffee cart is my 'fuck all this' back-up plan Are you doing soft serve, icepops or rolled? [trigger/] I used to work in a beach shop that had rolled ice cream and fuck saying all the flavours and then rolling that sticky shit all day, for entitled kernts and their whining spawn. packet ones are way easier - they point at the thing, you take the money, they go [/trigger] .
  5. azzurro
    But then I would have needed to weld another bung ontop of the now flogged out first one #stepdrilllyfe
  6. azzurro
    yeah i did. 18mm hole same as the bung thread i jammed a 11mm deep socket with masking tape on it to centre the bung on the hole/help the magnets hold it up if that what you mean
  7. azzurro
    I also stuck the Innovate MTX-L AFR gauge in as well, so i could tell how bad my tune is big hole and a bung. Looks easy enough but Im very ashamed of my welding, almost impossible to get the torch up top and blew holes and gaaaahhh. I hate welding exhausts. Bung filled plus lashings of exhaust cement. Cable routing looks a bit weird but tucks up nicely over the exhaust and into the gearbox tunnel And then through an enlarged reverse light switch hole All fires up ok, except the sensor wont get out of "Htr" mode, so probably need a new sensor (v4.9) which i was pretty much expecting anyway. ----- @Abarth popped over to drop my shims back and mentioned it sounded like one cylinder was lazy . "Nah mayte, shes got good factory leccy ignition from a Beta, thats just the dumb shit carb being dumb and shit. owl" Anyway, a few days later i pulled the plug leads to check the spark, and #3 definitely had good spark but didnt make any difference to the running. Pulled the plug and I must have caught it on something last time i had them out as it was gapped to over 1.6mm and had slowly carboned itself up really good. Regap and a wirebrush and its much improved. Dumb shit carb is still dumb tho - pretty sure the idle circuit is being bypassed or blocked, and the main is coming on too soon based on the slight dribbling from the venturis - ill swap the spare DMS on and start from as close to factory jetting as i can. Happy New Year and all that, May 2019 bring you many happy classic miles with Pohutukawa flowers all over the place and sunburn for you all
  8. azzurro
    Ive been poking away at this since dragday. Seems the slight fuel smell that developed durning the day was actually the fuel pump body leaking. What the hell. Anyway gave me the kick up the bum i needed to install all this in here, in prep for the sideys. Speaking of which, another manifold popped up on trademe cheap so i grabbed it hoping it might be a bit different (specifically have a bigger space between two middle barrells) from the two i have. Nope exactly the same - if the rear two were on the same angle as the front they would be perfect - there is heaps of clearance in the rear of the engine bay, and these were specifically made in NZ for 125 to have sideys fitted by the dealer (to make 125T) . I dont get it, its weird. Pupper still likes it so thats good
  9. azzurro
    Buys italian project vehicle. Is surprised by random issues and electrical gremlins.
  10. azzurro
    Best* way to sort out carb issues IMO is to double down on carbs
  11. azzurro
    The 12v is probably coming back at ya from the dizzy. ign module or points ground to collapse the coil field and make a hv spark. Cant recall if its normally 12v when not gounded or just open circuit? When cranking tye starter i think 12v goes to the coil (resistor bypassed) and once running it only gets the resistors 9v.
  12. azzurro
    Other terminal of the coil is the ground trigger from the dizzy. Should be 0v ( relative to earth). If it is 12v then Could be the control module in the dizzy is bust?
  13. azzurro
    Yep. 2 3 5 together and 1 should crank the starter With 2 3 5 Toogether check for voltage at the feed to the resistor after the resistor and also at the coil + Should be close to battery voltage going in to the resistor. I think around 9v coming out? More than zero anyway!
  14. azzurro
    If you hotwire it you can rule in/out the ign switches Id suspect somethings up with the power feed to the coil
  15. azzurro
    Wooo, drag day! Big thank you very much to all the people who organised and helped out on the day, and all the racers and spectators. Since last drag day ive done quite a lot of nothing much to this, but the main difference performance wise will be the new 'big valve' head. Otherwise everything else is the same, just fettled, maybe more than once Last years Average and Best runs vs this years (ET in seconds vs distance in feet) shows that this years average is better than last years best. Gained about half a second and 3mph, which doesnt seem like much but the HP calculators (ET and trapspeed) suggest this required a 10-18% increase in HP, from about 62ish to just over 70. Manual for a 1968 125 sedan says 90HP (DIN) Didn't break anything, no leaks or weird noises and didn't spill anything on the track (as far as i can tell!) Someone chatting to me later said they cleaned the track after one of my runs , but the engine/box and underside is still as clean and dry as when i installed it, so perhaps it was just water leaking from the rear tray I dunno? The WoF ran out today so will need to organise that, get a wheel alignment, set the tappet shims (so noisy!) and sort out the sideys, but will probably be in the new year EDIT: Farm Truck Drag and Rake Day shot thanks to @smokin'joe Totally crushed the Hilux
  16. azzurro
    Oh wow, thats some nasty ass rust, and i have 60's FIATs Safe travels CarolsWirewheelandSparklestick.
  17. azzurro
    Well side looks good. Are the us trucks swb? How you planning on filling the gap? Make a king cab
  18. azzurro
    Check the other stuff first while its together and 'running' then you can be both sure its carb related and that everthing else is 100%
  19. azzurro
    Yeah, Usually that would indicate a lean idle so start there. Start with the basics/easiest first. Set the idle screw 2 turns out from bottoming out and throttle stop screw 1 turn in from first touch. Then check ign timing. then check for air leaks then for fuel blocks and may as well check the float height and needle valve while its apart. Missing or worn teeny o-rings on idle jet holders and etc have got me before too. But... Could just be that when on the choke/cold start circuit its 'less rich' (choke doesnt just close the flaps to reduce air but often opens other fuel passages too) but that depends on how your carb works.
  20. azzurro
    Got this all buttoned up and took it for test run #1 up the culdesac, good news and bad news,, engine runs good and the turning 'noise' is now gone! wooot. Must have been those old inner tie rod ends and/or probably the stiff steering rod ends. But bad news is it made an all new suspension related clunky noise! Oh, that will be it then. Uhhhgghh. I guess the straight 124/Lada ones dont work on a 125p, To be fair, It did have plenty of clearance on the stands... So, back up on the stands to replace more parts I just replaced. Got some bent 125 ones from my new favourite shop, Euro-Italian on the shore, and much cheaper than i expected - should have got them to start with. test road test run #2, a week later demonstrates great success. So today i piled the engine crane, engine stand, spare 5 speed gearbox i installed and removed, the old head, and various other clutch bits and pieces, spares and other shit to to lock up a 30 km drive away and also to collect the xmas tree. Good way to bed in the clutch and as a bonus it dropped the ass nicely. Needs another wheel eyelignment, adjust the cluch cable a bit, and a few other little things that ill sort tomorrow, but otherwise im pretty confident it will make it to drag day under its own power and not only that but it feels like it should run better times than last year too. Mrs even noticed how much smoother and "less shit" it feels to drive around in now.
  21. azzurro
    removing the idle screw wont break anything, setting it is pretty easy too, but if the idle screw is not affecting the idle at all. the idle circuit is either - blocked so engine will stall due to lean condition from fuel starvation - clean it again or - there is a fuel leak and idle is too rich flooding engine - try checking float level and needle valve or - there is an air leak and will stall due to lean condition - if its not the manifolds check the booster isnt leaking by blocking the booster vacuum take off, maybe leaking around the butterfly shafts too, like my DMS
  22. azzurro
    https://drive-my.com/en/test-drive/item/2938-fiat-2300-familiare-vs-triumph-2000-estate-and-volvo-221.html?start=1
  23. azzurro
    Yeah, i figured something like that, i haven't looked inside it (and probably wont!), but it kinda felt and sounded like those gears were spinning on the shaft or something. i had a cursory look before i installed it and it seemed clean/nothing obviously broken, which is the full extent of my gearbox checking/testing/fixing skillz, but i will look at the diagrams and see if i can get my head around it. Im glad the engine seems ok too, im hoping the tapping is just valve clearances and not something more serious from hydrolocking or something, but the bottom ends of these engines are very stout and i checked that #1 piston wasnt sitting lower than #4 at TDC for the most part i was just getting it running before adding coolant, and once it was and i added it, the starter laboured and would nae start (i thought flat battery initially) so hopefully no harm no foul apart from wasting a lot of oil, coolant, money and time...
  24. azzurro
    Nice. Proper 1592cc on top of a 1608cc gasket, cylinder 1 at left.$35 each so i ordered two 'just in case'. the fire rings on the front and rear cylinder were tapped by the pistons and the front coolant passage right above the water pump made the cylinder part of the cooling system Disconnected the things, lifted the head and swapped the gaskets, and soon enough back as per, but with lots of little things done tidier. Yeah looking good. No leaks no bubbles. Bit tappy but pretty sure its valve shims need doing and not rod knock based on my big screwdriver engine stethoscope Now the engine runs good (needs shims doing before going too far), lets check out the new clutch adjustment and feel the smooth action of that fresh low mileage gear box! Seriously, this thing. I dont even. All out AGAIN to swap the old gear box back on. Anyways, its all back together and back in the hole, (im getting pretty quick at this now!) but its gonna rain for the next few days (nearly out of tank water so thats good) so it can sit in the rain for a while, im pooped.
  25. azzurro
    my man mal@fiatparts.co.nz came up with an Exedy clutch plate and a clutch release bearing so i wanged them in (i gave this a wipe before install) So i could then join the box and block together for the first time in about three weeks I put the old single DMS and manifold on for now as sorting out the sideys manifold is gonna take a while and im sick of tripping over all this stuff and the ute not going. Lunked it in the hole and connected everything up and it started and ran nearly first pop, then it didnt RORRR ROOOOWWW Turns out there are THREE types of head gaskets, this engine (1592cc) being the special snowflake version with the early 80mm bore (shared with the 1438 and 1608cc) and the later bore spacing (this engine is an underbored 1756 (84mm), the 1995cc (84mm) also has a longer stroke ) This is a 1995cc (top) and a 1608cc head gasket(bottom - i used one of these) , seemed cylinder 1 had a massive coolant leak from the front passage due to the fire ring hanging into the cylinder, allowing coolant to pour into the cylinder and cylinder pressure to entre the cooling system. FLIPPING ACE I was so worried about the 1608cc gasket suiting the late model big valve head i never really checked the gasket on the block other than checking the bore diameter So yeah, another order in for a new 1592cc head gasket, and a waste of new oil and coolant. Its even worse that its my own silly fault not checking closely thinking i had it all sorted. GAHHH!
×
×
  • Create New...