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azzurro

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  1. azzurro
    clearance from them tangs should be business card too, def not touching. Dizzy looks just like the Bosch one on my ute, so definitely check the wires and the terminal connections on the wee prongs from the dizzy side sensor, they get loose BTW. maybe a GM HEI module could be adapted to work?
  2. azzurro
    Agree with cletus, seem like an electrical fault to me. Are those ignition modules expensive or hard to find? That sort of thing tends to either work fine or not work at all IME. The signal from the dizzy to the module is pretty low level just the electromagnetic twitching from the forks passing though or between the sensor depending on hall or inductive type (pretty much like a record player - the module is pretty much an amplifier/switch that handles triggering the coil) so wiring issues on that side can have a big impact. Maybe at idle the lower system voltage is low enough to drop out the signal? id check all the both wiring to out of that thing and if that all checks out, maybe swap it out? if it makes no difference no matter, as its always worth having a spare module because then the original one definitely wont ever fail!
  3. azzurro
    Agreed, love all the engine work pics, fascinating and shows what a relative bargain engine machine shops are. Only complaint is that it really highlights how little i know about enginey bits! Carry on!
  4. azzurro
    Hello friend, Im sorry but i dont know. The car was originally dark red with a brown interior (you can see this colour on the doors where the blue paint is flaking off), but was resprayed light blue with white roof and sign written in the 70's, and i put the red interior in myself after finishing rust work and (re)repainting it to match the old respray (i love the writing on the doors). You can see the red where the door spear was in this photo of when i found it in a damp shed I think it was inspired by a factory colour scheme as i have a 1:43 scale model that matches (this model also has a red interior ) , but the paint colours on my 2300 are just paint shop specials - the blue was matched from the petrol flap, the roof and engine bay were chosen from their (PPG brand) 'standard' colour book.
  5. azzurro

    Morris 8 Misfire

    azzurro replied to SanRod's topic in Tech Talk

    I suspect that multispark thing provides multi choice variation of between 0 and 1 sparks, and after sufficient number of 0 sparks the plug gets is too wet to fire. Bin that silly nonsense and put another coil lead on. also test the spark with the plugs out and engine cranking - should be a nice fat blue/white spark - a yellow spark is weak. I wouldnt worry too much about the specific type of sparkplug, its a fairly low compression engine, so if they fit in the hole they should fire if given the juice - i suspect the issue lies in them not getting sufficient voltage rather than the plug itself. It may be - that the coil isnt getting enough voltage to push enough out the hot end- check that against the voltage the modern coil thinks it should be getting (beware the difference in required voltage between ballast resistor coils and non-ballast) - hows the inside and outside of the distributor cap and rotor looking? - spark leads good including good connections in the cap and to the plug?
  6. azzurro
    Connected the battery and the spark plug leads that i had removed to test something on the ute with, and it fired right up! Hopefully a good sign. Video below is the second start and first drive out of the shed for two years. Went well, but the rear brakes are binding which suuuuuuuuux as this was the last thing i did. Might just need a drive. No road drive due to the 2 of 4 doors missing or not closing and a loose bonnet Good opportunity to hose out the shed too! Somehow it looks even smaller with nothing in it! Made a new metal board rack for the back wall from the old clothesline bars that came in the back of the van, much stronger and can now easily fit 12 instead of 9ish max All the primer spots are areas that i have picked scabs or chopped out rust. None of them look like they have blown out again, so thats nice. Still a few to sort out, including the front passenger door. Front just needs a paint. Both doors on this side need a lot of work or swapping. Engine bay still looks nice (this is after a wash, blast with the air gun and lashings of WD40) Swapped the new welder over to 0.6mm wire (new roller came in - thanks AliExpress!) from the 0.8 i used on the exhaust and turned it right down to melt in a few patches on the front passenger door Goes pretty good, but its tricky to avoid the blow throughs on this old thin steel - i dont think the amps go quite as low as my old one even tho they both say 30A min, i think my old one was 'optimistic' even tho its actually more useful to be able to go lower on thin stuff. I have also (finally) replaced the liner and torch on the old one so i might fire it up and see - i probably should anyway to make sure its ok before selling it (or keeping it!) Happy this is making some progress again.
  7. azzurro
    Amazing work, well done
  8. azzurro
    Apart from putting primer on those patches above, nothing has happened with this for nearly two years while ive been playing with the ute and wagon. Both are relatively sorted now, so I have tidied some crap out of the garage and peeked under the car cover and found this: This is after pumping up all the tyres and dropping off the axle stands. Looking forward to pushing it outside and seeing what still needs to be done (probably everything)
  9. azzurro
    Took the day off yesterday because i missed the bus, so took this thing down to my usual WoF place. For some reason i only took this blurry potato while it was up on the hoist. GREAT SUCCESS! (one of the two number plate lights blown but he passed it on the basis i would replace it asap) Celebrated by slopping drippy subway all over the seats and my pants ate my lunch watching the kite surfers hoping for a massive tangle up Bought this on the way home too, hopefully slow down the cancer a bit In other WoF advisory related news, changed the brake pads on Lady Azzurro's daily, i think we got our monies worth! And after tidying a lot of crap from on and under this thing, pumped up all the tyres and dropped it off the axle stands for the first time in nearly two years,
  10. azzurro
    You are a man of class and exclusive taste sir.
  11. azzurro
    - made up an exhaust support from the gear box to the bit before the flexis, similar to how the 125 is set up - put a blob of weld on one holey weld (one! ) - took it for a hoon. Sounds great from inside, very quiet on cruise but a bark on the throttle and right at 2000 rpm and 4000rpm - rear pipe was touching the tow bar so adjusted the donut joint. - You can see the Y joiner at the rear seat, thought i may have needed a muffler in this section but it will hopefully be fine Only one sunny day this weekend, so did a few other little jobs, - after coil and resistance chat earlier in the week i checked the voltage at mine, it was about 10v. Based on googling its number to find out its specs, i think its a Ferrari or 6 cylinder Alfa ? came in a job lot so iunno) its quite a big larger diameter than usual anyway. Didnt even get warm on full 14V checked it after a exhaust sound test run . Si used the power from the fuel pump relay (already triggered by the factory coil feed) to power the coil and it seems a bit less missy when cold. Which reminds me I need to get a new Magnetti Marelli dizzy cap - there are cheaper versions out there but they are not very good. - also adjusted the idle mix on the carb a smidge richer, and i could slowed the idle speed a little more too. Engine now ticks away lovely, with a nice burble that you can only hear from the end of the exhaust, i think that the old one had quite a few more holes i didnt spot. - gave the headlining a scrub, and pulled out carpets, removed rubbish etc. - Put in a pretty subtle magnetic phone holder. - Gave it another wash, and then a wipe with an old polishy towel. Needs some more protection. I reckon its ready for a run to the WoF man one day soon.
  12. azzurro
    Lovely work. Im sure your old friend is looking forwards to many more roadies.
  13. azzurro
    I assume UJ means running a ballast coil with no ballast resistor, as this will be the case where a coil expecting 6-9v is running off permanent 12-14v, otherwise the output of the two systems on the output or HV side (which is in the 20-40kV range) should be pretty similar. The advantage of the ballasted set up, is on cranking as they get MORE than their normal or rated voltage when the starter is cranking (with the resistor by passed, but the starter cranking, the coil might see say 11-12V), which is when you need the strongest spark, but the coil (and seemingly the points which should only be handling the 12v ground side switching) cant handle this for long. I dont imagine a non-ballasted coil on 12v will hurt the points, but running a ballast coil with no ballast installed could, i guess
  14. azzurro
    Correct. - the resistor will be bypassed when cranking, so depending on your starters draw, the coil might see >9V temporarily (bigger spark when turning over), the issue is that it cant handle it for ages (ie normal running) I dont think so, unless your starter draws so much battery current that the voltage drops at the coil sufficiently that it no longer fires or has a weak spark (ie the problem the resistor was designed to fix, still exists) If it does, then wire up a resistor (and a coil to match) as per the factory, otherwise enjoy having the same voltage at the coil as all the other electrical components in your vehicle?
  15. azzurro
    GT40R stands for Resistor (not Racing), so it probably blew because it had too much voltage going into it if you dont have a resistor installed (and your measure of the power at the coil was = to battery voltage, right - ie not with engine/alternator running whcih would be 14V+ so 12v when running would imply some resistance) The R is added to older cars because of voltage drop when cranking with older battery tech, so the coil still works, tricky bit is that it is UN-resisted when cranking (getting all the volts avalaible) but needs to be resisted when its not cranking/alternator is spinning else it blows up If you going to get another coil go with an unresisted set up (ie GT40, no R)
  16. azzurro
    So plan is - twin 45mm (or 1 3/4") for most of the length, which matches the existing twin pipe from the manifold to the Y that is a muffler shop replacement that i will keep a very small part of, - into a single 57mm (or 2 1/4") pipe to match the existing rear muffler, that i cribbed from bits from the Croma Turbo i wrecked This was way more expensive than i thought, especially as a bought a nice new welder to do it with. Even my man-math was struggling. After watching some youtube and doing some actual math i started with making the new Y section from which everything else will be built from. and went forwards from there. The Y is right at the back of the floor pan and actually has a kick up towards the diff. Shiny stuff to the ex croma over the diff section And painted with some BBQ paint Pretty flash for a driveway job! Ended up using only the first 50cm or so of the old secondaries but turned out nice in the end. Shit is tight getting in and out. This is the new front section against the old part, the new Y joint ends adjacent to the white bit on old pipe so ive extended the primaries by like 2 meters. Unfortunately didnt take any photos of the whole thing as the rear half was installed so i could ensure the front half lined up Buttoned it all up just before dark and its surprisingly quiet, probably because i was used to the old blowing exhaust, but has a proper FIat rasp at around 2000 rpm or stabbing the throttle and seems to free rev a wee bit better. Tightening it all up properly means it now has no leaks, but it rattles on the cross member, i want to put a support off the gear box and I remembered that i forgot to weld in a O2 sensor bug so another couple evenings tweaking and upside down welding before a road test and butt dyno.
  17. azzurro
    Last* Wof fix job, the exhaust is chuffing (again) Lots of holes around the Y joiner Ive been here before And i wasnt the first rest of it not much better, ive cobbled this together with left overs and junk, and the rest is squashed and crunchy. . Time for something better The Abarth 2300S exhaust (second from bottom) is long twin pipe to a single over the diff then back into a twin tip. I6s apparently like having a long separation between the 2 groups of 3 cylinders, so lets do that too.
  18. azzurro
    finally adjusted the clutch pedal properly relative to the master cylinder, the various adjusting nuts are very high under the dash and not made for human hands. Yay. However in doing so i broke the light switch out of the column, with my head. This is the third? time ive done this, the car cam with no end of hacks to get around the broken one it had, i got this off another 2300 nut as his spare, and it broke in the box on the way home, you can see the lump of JB weld on the front indicator To be fair they are pretty weak design relative to the spring and ball bearing they act against, and with the plastic being so old they just bust out. ITs also a special snowflake* because it spaces the column change ball and the outer steering column, so we must make do. (* for Eg found this NoS one http://www.epocacar.com/shop/en/internal/8933-devio-luci-fiat-2300-s-13-fili-nos.html for 213EUROs and its not even the one in my ca, its the one in the book ) Good ol JB Weld, (other epoxies are available), tricky to get them 'moulded' without slopping it down into the guts as well, but the old tape dams and several thin layers did the trick The 'ear' had also fallen off the indicator switch end, my boy donated one of his 20 sided dice to the fix Took the opportunity to clean and grease all the mechanisms including the gear lever control centre operational
  19. azzurro
    Last few weeks ive been fiddling with this between rain showers. Starting my using my special tool Ap. 5030/7 for ignition timing inspection: The photo above is after adjusting it back form about 14deg (not a bad eyeball!) rather than 12deg, using the adjusting wheel on the dizzy However all in advance is significantly more than the 36deg max shown on the tool, so might have to look at limiting that in the dizzy. Gave it a quick wash, needs a proper polish and wax and some cavity and underbody wax . Assumed the position When i picked it up from storage i had to clean out the carb of fine brown grit. This was the fuel filter, pretty sure its rust from the lines or tank, but it was not new and could have been from itself? Either way, well over due. Chucked one of these electric fuel pumps in, same as the ute, mainly to to save cranking for ages when its been sitting while the mechanical diaphragm pump sucks gas up from the tank This is the cheap fuel filter after about 10 minutes (you can see the e-pump above it) . However its not got any worse than that after a lot more idling etc, so I might put the nice new K&N replaceable filter glass one in soon.
  20. azzurro
    All blue? nioce. However, Turk would look even better with a white roof and wheels, and maybe white below the crease in the body? Or will that just shift it from 'ex-Downer yellow truck' to 'ex-Mainfreight blue and white truck'?
  21. azzurro
    Those rims project that sir has a slightly caddish sensibility. Top show, old boy
  22. azzurro
    @Nominal mentioned me in Spam the other day, and i had actually been thinking how it was just rusting way, again... About time for an update from @azzurro - probably rusting away again. ___ Its pretty much been sat in this barn since my last post a year ago, except for when the barn was used for a wedding and it got pushed outside - groom was italian and stoked with it, and apparently it was used as a prop and is in some of the wedding photos, lol Its always been a bit of a pig to start when its been sitting for more than a day or two (first pop otherwise) as the fuel pump takes a long time to suck gas up from the tank, and the slightly flat battery wouldn't have lasted. It was also running a bit flat/missy when i put it away. I cranked it for a bit hoping for a miracle, but before i flattened the battery I pulled the carb top off to fill the bowl with gas, but it had a lot of brown sludge in the bowl so took the whole thing off and gave it a quick dismantle on the ute tail gate. Also adjusted the linkage to get full secondary opening, and with some gas in the bowl it fired up pretty much straight away A quick check of the brakes, lights and etc, and swapped spots with the ute, patted the resident donkey, and drove it home no worries at all. Its such a lush cruiser, its supposed to have 85 series tyres so its pulling 3500 rpm in 4th at 100, so while its more than happy there, its nicer to take it easy. However, it sounds great with a hole in the exhaust - the secondary opening fully has also given it a bit more top end howl too, and the small 6 is so smooth. Drive reminded me of a few small things I had on my list that need doing for a WoF - Ill install an electric fuel pump as per the utes set up (i bought two for this reason) - the exhaust needs replacing between the manifold and the rear door - i backed into the rear bumper with my old van and so i need to check out the spare one - check the ignition timing - so far has been done by guessing - there are no timing marks on the engine (they are on the flywheel requiring timing to be set with the engine running on a stand - what the flip), OR, you need a special tool. Well this NOS bad boy turned up on trademe for $15 so i bought it NOW. Looks like a precision tool, but it kinda jams between the water pump and timing chain case, and then the hole in the blue part fits over a bolt and dangles over the crankwheel. More fiddling to follow
  23. azzurro
    Good plan. If you draw/ mist some primer round the new panel onto the car and through the hole onto the panel will give you min/max cut lines on both and a better idea how much panel you have to play with/ how much more you could chop out. You could also self tap the panel in (temporarily) and run the cutting disc between the two lines above to make a nice matching seam to butt weld. As long as you have the panels nicely lined up, take your time and some flap discs theres no reason that seam would be visible when its all finished
  24. azzurro
    great work man, as usual love the wee video, each time gaining a wee bit more speed and confidence. engine note is suitably angry, but in kind of a cute way, "ohhhh look at the cute widdle puppy trying to be tough and growly - whos a good boy? you are. yes you are" gggggrrrr
  25. azzurro
    IMO you only want butt welds where you joining mid panel to mid panel so its invisible, basically where you are replacing rusty sections with new panel sections. Use lap joints (with plug welds) to replicate the factory spot welds where they would have existed before. Lashings of seam sealer to keep the moisture out of the overlap. As Valiant says, there is a bit of trick to thinking about the order of assembly re getting the grinder or mig torch in especially in the inner corner of the floor - eg maybe butt weld the floor section in, build up the inner sill to the new floor datum, build the outer sill (butt to the fender and sill, plug on the bottom lap) and plug weld the floor lap to the new inner sill last. Also that patch looks pretty rusty - best to cut more out untill you get to good metal, as its easier to make a bigger patch now, than try to weld to rust and then redo the repair in a year when the weld blows out.
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