camo_78

as cadbury would say:its deliciously ugly .and turbo wheels must stay,if you change to 5 stud get 5 stud ones

dragging this up from the dead.i havent cut it up yet,and there is a skid comp on the 18th of august(subject to enough entries),so will be taking this out for a burn.no point in pictures though as nothing has actually changed,lol

what brand is it?mines just a budget spec(read:crap) auto gauge one but it does the job

is there 3 screws on the back plate where the wires are supposed to come out??i pulled the back off mine easy as by taking the 3 screws out

there literally isnt,i shall try get a picture to show you what i mean

Hey Cletus,im midway through the VR4 conversion i asked about a couple of pages back. Ive discovered a potential issue though regarding the loops,in particular the 3rd one.im sure you have seen the underside of a VR4 legnum before,so you will know about how the 3rd part of the drive shaft is entirely under the fuel tank,and so no floor within the specs to bolt the loop to :/ .what would be the go with this in regards to cert??

indeed,lmao

Karl,you should have money from Liv and I in the next 2 weeks,will grab that grill while we are there??

not my car,paying job.i agree though,would be easier to purchase a vr4 straight out

thought so,but just thought i would check,mucho gracias

i know its been discussed already as to what does and doesnt need driveshaft hoops,but anyway,to my question:im about to convert a factory 2.5 v6 auto Non turbo Legnum to a twin turbo VR4 auto 4wd,do i need to fit driveshaft hoops for it to pass cert or will it be ok as its using all OEM parts(have the complete vr4 for the conversion)???

Bogan.strong in this one,yes

wise woman this one .only thing id say it deeper dish wheels(13x7 hotwires or spitties) and a decent whack of the lowering stick

best method ive seen is soapy water in a squirt bottle and craft knife on the INSIDE of the window.its a lot easier if the dash etc is out first though .

Nothing i noticed Damien,apart from a couple of 2nd gen mirages i think?

dont know if itll work for you Gaz,but my familys trick from back when i was a toddler was to go buy a set of V8 leads(from silvester v8/sydenham park) on moorhouse ave,then shorten and recrimp ends to fit whatever vehicle they were for(usually the parents mk4 cortina).added bonus was having 4 spares for the next time/next vehicle

what happened to the cortina wags??looks like it was tidy as

Listen to this man,i agree with him 200%

mate XB runs 351GT extractors with 3" collectors into twin 2" pipes with NO balance/X pipe,sounds lumpy as hell which i love.but thats a ford,lol.personally i think single pipe is the go Boss man

if theres anything relevant out there when you are there post it up here as an example,just been out there and there is a mk2 escort wagon looking sorry for itself in the ford area,seems to be semi complete at this stage though

in the words of a wise movie character: "hmmmmm,fix for hanmer,you shall"

thats someone on heres mk2 cant remember the name.im with the majority on this,13s are perfect for escorts IMO,will be putting 13s on my panelvan when i get around to building it eventually

i had 13x7 modgies with 215/50 13s on my old mark 2 sedan,RX3 offset.they sat inside the guard lip(once the lip was rolled up completely),barely rubbed even with flipped leaves and no springs in the front(was NEVER driven on the rd).on the other side of the equation i have a set of 13x6 spitfires with 195/60 13s that did rub on the back due to a slightly more aggressive offset,but were fine on the front. and just to mess things up,i have a set of 15x8 D window steelies that fit on cortinas,but they WONT fit on my escort van ans the rim hits the struts.basically it comes down to what offset you run as to what will fit,in my opinion anyway

so 1 would assume that dot4 and 91 should NEVER be mixed??lol.

i dont even know wtf dot4 is,lol