Rookie

Did you miss this bit mate? Even though the rear port may have a residual pressure valve , chances are that the bore of the master cylinder is stepped, so you will run into issues.

Out of the 11ty photos you took, not one of them shows the area of the head that would let you identify what sort of LSD it is. Take a photo of the ramps and then we will tell you.

Oi Bizzo, you jelly?

I too have heard of this but in my case it was an owner driver telling me and the amounts were in the order of 1L in a 400L tank, dunno the merits though?

Copy this man, he seem to know what he's doing, he's on the nissan diesel forum too. 1.7 bar of boost. Xz8u3_NzX88 This LDs got 2 bar up it. NLAIosfjAWs

Any of you top blokes know of a surefire (read: easy) way of getting the 40 odd years of shit of the gearbox and block of my Kent? I've been using petrol and a screw driver and that works but its slow going. Any help would be appreciated.

It appears to be in here.. http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf Ford 2.0l OHC Courier etc Otherwise if you have an ACL gasket it will have the sequence and spec on the packet?

Are the lifters the same size? so can I put the lifters that match the cam into the 711M block?

Ah that could be a problem, as the cam has been run in a 120E block and the motor it's going into is a 711M. What's the course of action in this case?

By doing the cam follers UJ, you just mean replacing them?

A 234 is a cam made by Kent Cams http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/5/Camshaft/Camshaft/234-Fast-Road/ And also a Heron combustion chamber is when you have a flat head and a dished piston. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heron_cylinder_head So what I was trying to say is the uber low CR from having a combustion chamber in piston and in the head will be poose. So the consensus is: yes, cam = good?

There's a good reason why I'm not going to put my good head on it KK, its had pretty big combustion chambers machined into it, so with the heron pistons it would have like 6:1 CR. Looks like this:

Ok what I'm after is a ya or neh on whether a cam upgrade on a standard 1600 crossflow is worth while. The reason I ask is that I have a standard kent in my lotus 7 while I'm building up a dry sumped race motor for it, and I have to pull it out to sort some oil leaks, so I'm wondering if it would be worth while to slap the 234 (i think) cam in it while it's out or will the stock head mean that there won't be any apreciable gains? The car has twin 40 dhlas and extractors. Cheers Guys

So you are saying that its actually 43 lb/in?

Mostly because the factory OMP puts sump oil into the engine and at the end of oil changes you are putting well used oil in which doesn't lubricate the seals as well. Also by running premix you are burning oil that is designed to be burnt and then you can run synthetic oil in the sump.

You have to be careful though if you plan on using a fire extinguisher as a gas bottle, I have just been refused a fill by supagas because it is painted red not grey? or something, it would have been cheap though about $80 for 5 m3 of argoshield, I just took the bottle into the local tradezone store and they send it away to supagas. I got the people that check the extinguishers at work to fill it with co2 so not really a problem. This is for mig though, but just sharing my supagas experience.

Na it will be a NZ assembled vehicle, in which case it won't have the normal type codes stamped on the tag, we have our own set of codes and as far as I'm aware no one here has bothered deciphering them. The best bet is to jack it up.

I'm down for the 3rd, it would be awesome to meet some of you guys for real. I might see if I can pull the Alfa out of the shed for the event.

I just found this, it's for Webers but they are pretty much the same. http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/rasorcom.htm

Just buy a couple of these http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/carburation-induction/auction-419846075.htm and away you go. Depends on if the throttle shaft is munted, but really thats about the extent of what can go wrong, they are really simple and very easy to understand.

The reason they have external ballast resistors is so that when cranking the starter it by passed the resistor and gives it 12v instead of 7, this makes the spark more powerful and enables easier starting. So when you put in the resistor and coil then also makes sure you hook up the bypass wire to take advantage of the easier starting.

That part number he posted is for a 7v coil K-Trips, and all the ke70's I've seen had them. Make sure that when you put it in you do it properly so you get the advantages of it.

Yea, I reckon that that will be your problem, the coil will produce very weak spark if its overheated. On the plus side they aren't very expensive.

Hey, Does your car have a balast resistor conected to the positive side of the coil?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_tuneup Basically find a big hill and do repeated full load pulls up it.