Rookie

Sweet Deal Boys, I'll get on it. @HighLUX Yea mate, if you have a spot going i'm in.

OK, so I'm keen, I pulled Maria's YB100 out of the shed and it runs, so I will give it a tickle up and get it legel Beagle. Is the first page a good indication of whats going on, or can someone give me a tl,dr? Also, Is anyone going through Taupo that might have space to get the bike to Whakachangi? I'm happy to pay gas etc.

Dave, you have basically confirmed the reason you tune itbs alpha n instead of map, good jerb.

Oh ok fair enough hahahah

What rocker ratio and seat pressure are you running that needs 1/2" push rods? We have big blocks and hemis running 4-500 pound seat pressure on 7/16" push rods, so unless you are even close to that 3/8" should be fine.

If you have no money then start reading and do it yourself, there isn't much too it if you follow the instructions, but beware that it is like physics, in that if you just know how to plug numbers into formulas, but don't really understand why, then you will have a much harder time making it work than if you spent a bit of time to learn what each thing actually does.

I'm not sure I would restrict the overflow of the surge tank, if that is what you are talking about?

But Good job on checking the simple shit first.

Also, I might have jumped the gun, I forgot you are running a MS!, so I don't think it can do PWM fuel pump control, soz babe.

A fuel cooler is definitely not needed for an application like this. As for how to fix it, my bet would be running another fitting into the fuel tank and plumbing the return in there. Your MS should also be able to control the fuel pump with the built in PWM so hook that shit up too, as it makes a diference on over pumped cars. Also to answer your question about fuel pump voltage making a difference, yes, it makes a huge difference and will effect your fuel pressure significantly, which you should be logging is you aren't already. Use the technology Alex!

Good catch bro, it is indeed 7/8"-14

Hey man, it is just an end mill with the tip ground down to a pin so there is no flutes there and it acts as a guide, you buy them,they aren't cheap, but they are the right tool for the job, the one you want in this case is a 10mm pin and 13.5mm cutting diameter. Order of ops is Pilot hole of your preferred size 10mm hole all the way through 13.5 mm end mill down to say 1/2 depth Deburr and chamfer both outside and inside. I do it all in the drill press so I can use the depth stop for the endmill, (the last set I did were for a v10, so having all the holes at the same depth made it easier for mounting the injectors) and use a digital angle finder to set it up level in both directions, but if you were careful I don't see why you couldn't do it all with a cordless hand drill.

I do this reasonably often at work, you just tap it with a 7/16-14 thread (which is an10) straight into the alloy and use a 10mm hole to pilot the injector holes for a 13.5mm pin guide end mill ( not all the way through of course) to make sure you get a nice surface finish for the injector orings to seal on.

Which is great when you can adjust the spring rate, but seeings as this is "airbag chat" and an airbags spring rate is dependant on pressure, which also happens to be dependant on height, then you realise that slammed = low spring rate, hence the question to other airbag users...

Seems odd, but you should definiely sort out the 10v issue before you go any further, you should see battery voltage on the positive side of the resistor, also flick your voltameter to resistance and measure whe the ballast is sitting at.

Bingo.

Oh man, I don't even know where to begin telling you how wrong you are. Basically ignore this advice; you can't visually inspect a bearing unless it is munted, the only way to do it is with mic's. Alternitively, it is a low load tractor motor so just put them back in if it is running fine now, it will be running fine afterwards.

If it is wired up like that you are missing at least one wire, there should be a 12v wire to the positive terminal of the coil that bypasses the ballast resistor on cranking, and this should only get 12v when cranking. My bet is that you are only getting power on cranking, hence why it dies when in run. What you should do is get a volt meter and hook it up to the positive terminal, you should see 6-7v when the key is in position 2 and 12v when the key is in position 3. If this isn't the case you need to sort out the wiring.

Tom is on the money here, no need to replace bearings that are in spec.

I have heard the problem is wander rather than loss of sync, I guess it depends on application, but with a ragged edge tune and 3 degress or more would easily be enough to grenade a motor. anyway, you have both sides of the coin now, so take it as you will.

Downtrail, is that pulley you showed a balancer one too? If so how did you get on with crank signal at higher rpm? I know it is a therotical no no, but if you actually did it and it worked fine then sweet, or did you just not give a fuck, and she'll be right mate?

Grind a tooth off?

Is that pulley a balancer? If so you shouldn't mount the trigger wheel to the outer part of it.

Good work Pete, keep it up.

Can you change your thread title when you actually decide to make it faster, so I know when to check your thread again, because these updates are boring as fuck Roman Dayfe...