Valiant

Id like to hear the story about the ham fisted wiring damaging wanker

AFWE. Did you call them?

Re water pump, I glue the gasket to the pump with a very light smear if rtv, then fit it and pull the bolts up tight from there. Give the o ring and where it sits a good dose of rubber grease and put it together.

AFWE have a good range of chromolly tube they will it by the foot which is handy.

I just googled the head gaskets they are close to symmetrical but not quite, it looks like some water holes might be blocked if they were put on back to front. I'd check the radiator, get the tanks off etc. It's cheap insurance for a new motor anyway. Replace the thermostat with a genuine one. If that didn't help, have a good hard look at the water pump. Sounds like the fan is working as it should. Beyond that you might have to look inside the motor. Does it have oil squirters to cool the pistons? I've heard of people leaving/misaligning them and it causing heating problems. Sorry if that's a lesson in sucking eggs, good luck.

Hello Sheepers. Is the cooling system circulating as it should? the top and bottom hoses are both hot when the engine is overheating? I'd be tempted to get the tanks off the radiator and see what the core is like. It might have been blocking previously but not caused a problem, now the extra load has tipped it over the edge. Whats the radiator cap like? My two cents.

@yoeddynz Have you ever thought of a leaf conversion? I have been thinking quite a bit about an electric Jag but I'm struggling to find much information. A comment you made about a Testla Imp got me thinking about how a Leaf Imp could work.

Sorted.

What gearbox are you going to use? I had trouble with the turbo, wide block, hydraulic clutch vs cable clutch ute when I did mine.

We did some stuff with this today, one of the boys videoed it. This was the third lump we pulled out like this, works well, saved a lot of effort.

G'day I'm quite a fan of LPG, got a pic of the old tank? There will be a valve where the fuel line meets the tank. Shut it off and crack the line, there will be some hissing but it just the gas still in the line, it won't hiss for long. You can take the tank out from there.

That ratio seems to be a good choice, your motorway speed is great.

Yeah it was, the truck drove in, got filters changed, wouldn't go/sharn

Try locking all the bleeders and give the lift pump 10 or so pumps to drive any air in the injector pump up the return. @MOF whats the valve in the return line called that holds a little pressure in the pump? I had a similar situation with a truck and it turned out that that valve had been left out by a previous person.

You cant rush into things. Funny because I noticed the mint L200, and thought a foamer must own it. Looks like I was right. Mine was black, I used to park it behind the Mobil just down from your house. Small world huh?

This is funny, I drive past your house pretty regularly , (its in Rangiora isn't it?) I like these utes too I had one years ago that I swapped a G63b turbo out of a RWD sigma. Mine was slow as a wet week and only mildly less slow post motor swap. Now I can live vicariously as you do what I should have done.

I don't, others may disagree. I took mine off and added a small spring to hold the adjuster in.

Axle seals are easy to replace Much like any other diff/axle seal You could get your shoes relined by Safe r Brakes or someone similar. Could you use a cable guide out of an Australian BW diff, or if it's the auto adjuster you can delete it the dont work well anyway. The drum v shoe is pretty common, don't worry. Unless you can see wear marks where shoes have run on the unused section of drum.

Wow, what a mess this thread is. Anyway. I washed this the other day so it seemed like a good time for an update. Things I have done. . . Replaced the safety valve in the fuel tank, inadvertently inhaled quite a bit of LPG and felt quite dizzy for a few minutes. Would not trade again. The new safety valve did solve the cutting out issue so that was nice. Fitted this CB Performance black box timing control unit. But it turned out to be a bit of a dick and wouldn't work as I hoped so out it came, in went a stock distributor to get it going. This Link G3 has been purchased and will be wired over Christmas with a view to getting it tuned early next year. Other things I have done include fitting a set of LN??? Hilux 4 piston calipers to the front of the Valiant. As mentioned on OS previously they take the same pads as R32 GTR skyline but skyline pads were $400 trade vs good Bendix pads at $40. Regardless of pad choice they fitted nicely with minor modification, clear my 14 inch steels, I even managed to reuse my VG brake hoses, bled up nicely, and have made a great improvement to the cars braking. I did a few other things , ordered a new boot rubber and a couple of rubber ends to hold the sun visor up, re routed the exhaust a little as it was banging on the drive shaft loop (cert guys wrecking the hobby) etc etc. Nothing exciting. Drove to Hanmer this September via Kaikoura and the inland scenic route, back to Christchurch and all over the Port Hills. Did a couple of circular engine load tests, fun was had by all. looking forward to getting the tuning sorted so I can cut the bottoms off the rear quarters and attend to the rust there and get the dented front guards sorted. I've only had the car 15 years so no rush there. Obligatory washed car photo. Happy days

Good afternoon Cletus. You raise a number of valid points, and it is my opinion that you should continue as you were intending to. I am however quite taken by the idea of an S chassis front end swap and find it most disappointing that cars of this ilk have be come so expensive. It is my opinion that an S chassis has much to offer an early Valiant. Regards. Peter.

Hello Cletus. Do you think doing the whole S chassis front swap as discussed previously might be in order? It looks like you're doing the hardest part for less of the potential benefits. My two cents. Sincerely. Pete.

Looks like there is room for the turbo at the back of the cab if you offset the intercooler.

Overlays. Sorry. I'll see myself out.

Hi Bart, can you give us a break down of prices for this project? $500 seems pretty low. How much was the BW78? What axles are you using? Etc.

All this talk of 8.8s, BW78s and Hilux diffs have caused me to ruminate lately with things that I have discovered over the rears. As someone who has a number of failed diff upgrades behind him, and a number of successful ones too it is my opinion that unless you are building a very big HP car that you intend to drag race or do mad burnouts with a factory LSD upgrade is all you need, or an aftermarket center. By that I mean adding a Quaife LSD center to your Escort/Anglia/Cortina diff or upgrading the center of your Valiant/Holden/Falcon diff with a rebuilt factory LSD center. If you are building a serious car with big HP, stump up the cash and buy a 9inch. It might cost you a bit more initially but in the long run it will work out cheaper and better. So to clarify I'm not opposed to 8.8 swaps for example, as said above they are cheap, strong and come stock with an LSD. But. . . factor into that shorten the housing, source another axle, change a crown wheel and pinion, weld on your spring perches and deal with all the worn out bits in a diff that was new 20 plus years ago and hasn't been touched since. Yes you'll have a good strong diff in the back of your car. It will still have C clip axles, bearings that run on the axle, and be a back hat design. In my experience it will cost at a decent percentage so of an equivalent 9inch it will probably cost more than that by the time it's up and running but it wont be a 9inch. The same applies to BW78 diffs too. This is my opinion. Please discuss.