mjrstar

Maybe instead of a rod end the arms could be made with a weld in cup? You'd need a shim or eccentric bolt for alignment purposes I guess. https://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C73-441/

Yeah redline is all-good for stock synchros, I've got that in the 370z box in Mazda. It is however bad news for carbon synchros. Some carbon synchro manufacturers will specify not redline mt90, you need something between water and engine oil consistency. My old evo was total balls for high rpm shifting, even at 7000 rpm you couldn't guarantee a clean shift, and at 7500 it simply would not select, no bad noises, it was just like the gear wasn't there. I put it down mostly to the full face evo 9 clutch which must have a bit more mass than the earlier evos. None of that silly carry on in the honda though, it'll shift like butter even when it's on the limiter at 8800+rpm.

I'm all for carbon synchros, I personally wouldn't run a combination of oem synchros and carbon. The coefficient of friction means it's highly unlikely you'll find an oil that will work really well with both. There will have to be some compromise.

Sika make a bunch of badass sealants I think i used 295uv for a job and the adhesion was spectacular. I figure if it's good enough to make a super yacht not sink it'd do for my POS car. / would trade again.

I've been for a ride in Kevins starlet, it's quick but not spectacularly fast (maybe a 13.6 1/4mile) in a straight line, but it brakes and turns and grips almost like the feeling of an open wheeler meaning it's highly competitive at tight and twisty events. Also the 11,000 rpm is kind of cool.. it is however slightly tricky to get a car which pretty much has zero flywheel smoothly off the line.. Would definitely hoon as a race car, but as something to have to drive in traffic maybe not.

You guys might be hating on gearbox Barry, but a close ratio gearbox is a modification not to be sneezed at.. It would be 100% a pita to even consider alternative ratios in this setup, and I'm sure performance will be sufficiently badass is a lightweight machine as is. Maybe just whip up another car over the weekend using the stock gullwing transmission, you have a lathe and a welder, what else could you possibly need.

Connect the earth on, then connect up the other 3 any which way which takes your fancy. If it turns backwards swap any 2 (but not the earth ) / not an electrician, this not advice etc..

Holy shit the future is here. Weird elevator music in that video though.. Just need ai to dream up the parts and drones to deliver them.

Helped a mate make his tiny house, when you plan your cutouts if you care what it looks like see if you can terminate the cut on the same part of the profile on each side. We use shs welded in for framing windows and doors etc. It all went pretty smoothly except for him being the most accident prone person on the planet. Kept him clear of power tools, welder etc and he fell off the ladder whilst brush painting the frames after I had welded them in. His forehead no match vs the corner of the floor. Cue trip to A&E and some explaining to his wife.

Can you space the caliper bracket inwards,with a single piece non welded spacer? Edit :Aah never mind it looks like the bracket bolts to the outboard of the hub flange.

Blank off the brake booster , bov, and wastegate plumbing to see one if one of them is your culprit.. you only need a really tiny leak to really increase rpm with no load. A lean condition can raise idle rpm, as can timing but not normally by heaps.

You'd probably get more ultimate grip from doing a a bit of work in a shock and spring combo that makes it squat a bit harder than you would by adding 20 or 30mm of adding rubber width.. Although in saying that almost all of my fleet has the boundaries pushed a little when it comes to wheel width /offset.. Except my daily which from stock is awd and runs a 255 21.

Yeah if you aren't going crazy then stock block is OK, you need to put another 4 grand aside for a set of darton sleeves if you want to go wild.. and then youd net far better results with forced induction... that's the downside of most na engine builds, the turbo option is just so much easier to make reliable power. Stock b18cr go alright with a gearset, but not going to set the world on fire.

Would a window wiper motor give you the agitation you need without reversing? I have an external control module for a wiper somewhere, which has adjustable intermittent function.

Oh man, I'd be putting the stock b series aside and sliding a nicely fettled b20 vtec, with a b18 engine tag on it back in there.. the engine tags cut off pretty easily (to make your b20 magically into a b16 or b18)with some patient hacksawing.. well apparently

Looks great! Whats the reasoning behind planning a strip down.. Is it down on compression, or smokey? I found the stock breather system lends itself to putting quite a bit of oil into the inlet manifold when at high revs with the throttle closed.

There may be an issue with the max scale the maf can provide as you upmthe boost, the evo ones were OK for around 250kw at the wheels, you could trick them into rescaling a little I think about 10% from memory but you had to steal a load zone from elsewhere in the map. The afm just counts air, so at low boost it probably dgaf if it's positive or negative pressure?

It kind of sounds a bit like the ecu flash and evoscan programs I used to deal with when tuning my old Evo. Quite powerful and you can get things to run really mint if you invest the time, but not user friendly, I found the trickiest thing is not being able to tune live, and you had to do a run, review the data log, make make changes to the rom, upload, then confirm things actually changed. Even a timing tweak to stabilize the idle is a 5 second job with instant results with a link or similar is going to take a bit of time.. I went through is same pain again with the eprom in my honda pos racecar, sure an aftermarket ecu would have been easier but way cheaper to stick with oem.. but not so cool when you want to adjust a Rev limit, or change the idle target by a few hundred rpm. The good thing with mass airflow is its pretty accurate, (moreso than map) but I'm not sure how exactly yours will behave being post turbo.. my experience is limited to upstream of the compressor.

I'd save a lot of messing around and just go straight to the @Roman approved virtual dyno app, it makes the graphs so you don't have to.

I used a bitumen stuff sika 4L blackseal plus from bunnings to stop water getting into some garbage gazebo sort of thing made from polystyrene. not the easiest to spread, but goes hard / don't get it on your hands. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/sika-4l-blackseal-plus-bitumen-waterproofing-membrane_p0443433?store=9527&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwir2xBhC_ARIsAMTXk84SwSYOJlKIM02KNdUtZCPNB3XoAakuisNK5WXIYR2gPiAlxFlSZDIaAiJZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Battery cable ends. Is there a superior material selection? I have been through a couple of plated copper terminals in pretty short succession, its always the negative which suggests it's under used / not charged often enough which I'd have to say is correct. Are the cast looking brass terminals more corrosion resistant? or is there a magic jizz that will make my cable ends last a bit longer...Under the ball of blue/ green fuzz the battery terminals themselves still look mint on the 3 yo battery.

Is it safe to assume you fixed this before the cams went in?

I'm all good with the current safety inspection of older cars, one thing I though.... I think there should be slightly more leniency for the testing of brake imbalance on old historic /classic.. I want the convenience of going to a vtnz, but I don't want the ballsache of having to get a 50 year old braking system to be as accurate and repeatable as a modern day equivalent when the car weighs under 700kg and probably couldn't do a 17 second 1/4 mile..

could you maybe make 2 halves from some MDF, then use that to press the shape into aluminium and then weld together, if you get some O state alumimium its very workable...

it might depend a little bit on just how wild the cams are, i have found with an air flow metered engine you can get away with a bit, certainly more than you can on a MAP sensor engine. You'd want to be sure it has piston to valve clearance, and see if the cams are designed to run close to base cam timing, i dropped some smallish kelfords into my old evo on stock cam gears, and it didn't really have much affect on AFR's, but I can confirm it did in fact go hard for what it was.