mjrstar

I run an owner bottle 5kg of co2 on my mig, goes hard for what it is.

Can you bar the engine over at rest with the clutch disengaged?

Could the clutch release fork or release bearing be catching on the pressure plate, ie its moved out of the way when the clutch is depressed and gets hung up when released... What sort of noise does it make when it doesn't go? Does it stall the engine when you let the clutch out?

Oh hey FYI, Domain is Thursday night after shakedown in helensville, Raglan is Friday,kaipara Saturday, then the FIA /international do the Jack's ridge Sunday. The nzrc boys don't do the Sunday.

In more linisher chat, I don't do much in the way of heavy steel fab work bit do need a way of tickling up a tungsten from time to time.. I find my baby bench grinder isn't ideal and thought that maybe a cheapo belt sander linisher makes sense.. Anyone using one of these poverty machines? Appears to have a few more watts than the one @Geophy linked back a page or two.. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ryobi-370w-150mm-bench-grinder-sander_p0314864

Better drain the coolant out and take it for a long drive to confirm.

If it's OK running the engine in neutral then yeah it does sound like your lost 10mm socket and it's found its way into the crown wheel.. Maybe if it's not a 10mm socket then that rag from @cletus oil pump drive is in there. Perhaps jack the car up noze down and start it up with the driveshaft removed from the gearbox? Shouldn't be too much spillage from the output shaft for a quick check.

I have an under $10 trademe unit and it goes hard for what it is. I did pay for the Ford specific software in the torque app to get a few extra parameters to show in my turbocoon but this is not necessary for scanning and clearing codes etc.. Edit This is what mine looks like.. Can't comment on other options.. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing/3760913695

Yeah - Or a cracked selector fork not getting enough travel to slide back off.

Sounds a little like 2 gears selected.. Has anyone been fiddling with the gearbox? How much does it rotate before coming to a stop? I'd start by running the prop shaft by hand with the box in neutral and go from there.. Maybe disconnect at diff end if you can't tell which end is stopping the turnage. Edit : too slow I didn't copy @RUNAMUCKhonest..

A cheap obd2 scanner that Bluetooths to your phone is such a good way to save time on diagnisis...

If you want an economical boring runabout get a Honda something.. If you want to fix that Toyota pos then maybe plug in a scanner and see if the IAT and ECT sensors are happy. It also may pick up which cylinder is misfiring and give you the option to shuffle the coil pack to a different cylinder to see if the miss moves about. You may have disturbed or damaged wiring during the alternator fix up. It sound to me like a semi limp mode for too high temp of some sort. And the miss may be a soft rev limit.

Can get 3 puck with sprung centre next time maybe? I just ended up down a rabbit hole drooling over exedy carbon r clutch. I reckon you could do a carbon conversion if you find something the correct diameter. Assuming there isn't an off the shelf option.

I think bmw (maybe others too) do this a bit to improve fuel economy. It kicks the alternator in when the engine on the overrun or when battery voltage drops to a certain level..

Fit teleflex cable to butterfly, then add a choke cable knob from a Morris minor mounted on the dashboard. No need for that vacuum fuckery.

Better or worse than this thing?

Does it have a coolant passage through the throttle body?

If you want to run that butterfly thing, just bore a hole / holes in the butterfly and have either open /closed.

Great progress! This may not be all that relevant, but I have found on my Honda due to the way its used, there is far more side loading on the exhaust from cornering forces than vertical load from its own weight. This is something that wouldn't be a problem for a road car, but for a track machine you don't want to underestimate how much side to side loading will be applied. / like sheepers says get version 1 up and running with whatever stock body mounts you have then fine tune it down the track.

Probably a dumb question, but have you checked pressures on the newly fitted tyres? Tyre shop will often leave pressure very high when I get tyres done.. They'd need to be within a few psi to keep the system happy. not just flat, for example the system may be unhappy with 2 tyres at 40 psi and the other 2 at 32 psi.

I'm probably going to suggest not to sand blast, especially if the material is porous as it can lead to contamination, maybe give it a good heat up with a heat gun to see if you can bleed out any nasties..

Sweet as, do you need regulator & flow meter too? I have just rangi'd up a tacking band to suit 3" for you to use so that better be your exhaust tube size..

I would get the bits as clean as you can, including a good scrub with some solvent. Then find a fabricator / someone that have a crack at it with aluminum tig. It is at least pretty thick so there is a decent chance of a successful repair.

If its not too far out of your way you can come & grab my bottle if you want, I probably have a handful of 3 inch pie cuts you can have too.

This has had a replacement engine yeah? I'd be checking front knuckle wiring wherever it terminates back to the body if it's been apart for axle removal etc..