mjrstar

This has a nice stance, is it just the photo or is it running MEGA camber up front, if it was mine I'd be finding a rear bumper.

There are a couple of different universal/CV options, the block should be OK but the boxes never really seem to take much abuse. Keep your eye out for a clubman 1275 motor and box it probably likely to be the least stuffed. I started out with factory rubber CV's (weak) then on to cooper s units(not quite as weak) and finally changed to metro universals (seem to work ok). Don't go for an 1100 as your crank will end up in 2 bits if you ask it to any decent sort of RPM. As far as I'm aware they all mount up basically the same, there are a few differences depending on the gear change set-up, either rod, remote or wand change (yuck). an extra mount off the thermostat housing tends to make the other mounts last a bit longer, commonly known as "an extra engine steady" these can be made/brought pretty cheaply. personally (and this might sound a bit harsh) i'd measure up the room available and extend the budget, find a crashed GT starlet and fit the 4efte out of one of these, it might be a bit more hassle for a start but by the time you repair all the engine and box issues (even before you consider turbo'ing) you could have the Toyota motor complete with 5 speed in and running. Sorry for the wall of text etc..

i have in the past lathed down large tapered wheelnuts to work as a shank/washer setup. It might be an option?

I'm pretty sure I had heavy covered when the 1G was dropped in. 15's are a must to cover the brake package.. when you say "heavy" are you talking steering or more to do with the increase in unsprung weight?

( i think the rca's are around 45mm) the current height sees the bottom arms/steering rack ends pretty much horizontal whereas they were angled a little upward before. So I may have possibly reduced bump steer, time will tell i guess. Getting it closer to the road was more for the look than trying to find more handling/grip, some aero aids are probably on the list if i get serious about handling.. not sure if i can be bothered with that in all honesty. Does anyone know if those TRD duck-bill spoilers actually provide any downforce?

so this is the latest weight reduction plan... ok so that's not actually the plan the idea is to find the car a bit more slam without it becoming a rather large lathe for tyres. i used a bit of my underseal goo, sure it's untidy but i couldn't be fucked setting up to put real paint on there, plus it should resist stone chips a bit? it looks a bit like this now... sure it's not quite epic slam but its about 40mm better than before. someone was asking about brake caliper brackets so here you go..

The manifold is around 3 litres, it uses the original non tvis inlet runners cut off and a folded up plenum. Pretty sure it then has a 7m throttle body. No idea what it would cost to build sorry. I have probably got a few more pics of it somewhere..

fuel leaks sorted, but now i have a bit of a water leak.. also got some more stuff on. although something is mising. I also found some more of the turbo destroying stuff.. no idea where they came from but they are too big to fit through the intercooler.

I picked up my shiny bits today then i started to put some of them on the car. apparently a piece of round metal resembling a ball bearing appeared once the turbo was pulled apart, no idea what's going on there.... my attempt to re-use the copper washers for the banjo bolts on the fuel rail is not going to work unless leaking fuel/fire risk/excessive fuel consumption is desireabe, which I believe it is not. next on the list will probably be the exhaust manifold.. hopefully it not too much dremel action to make it fit.

i know with the evo ones you retract it by winding a bit of m8 threaded rod in to it and holding it in place with a paperclip. you then do a distortion check to make sure the tensioner isn't stuffed. i believe yours will have an allen key to retract it, although you might find some more useful here? http://forum.altezzaclub.org.au

Progress? No hitches today.. clutch was nicely lined up engine dropped in easily. It looks like i'll have a slight drama with plugging the oil feeds on the turbo head, there are a couple of extra ports that i really don't need. Valve clearances are a little tighter than I would have liked but i'll see how it goes.. That's about it.

If it was me i'd be mock fitting the fibreglass flares and then getting the wheels modified to have them sitting nice and flush. they might end up at 8.5 or 9'' ? The mega flare option might sound / look cool but it's really going to reduce how useful the car will be, as mentioned earlier tyres wheelbearings etc will be a bitch.

I'll try and make it.. impending house purchase means were moving down this way for a while.

So here is a couple of pics.. the offending material... fuck knows what it is from.. some of the shit that didn't want to fit. another coozed turbo

turns out i had already brought thrust washers 100 years ago (well probably more like 5 years) when i had first got the spare engine.. anyway... old motor out, new motor built, with a fair few dramas, the following parts are different and were not easily interchangeable. head, block, timing cover, oil pump pick up, turbo oil feed, turbo oil drain, oil cooler lines, oil cooler water piping, thermostat cover, water pump, dizzy instead of cas ..... etc etc.. still not too sure if my exhaust manifold will fit. so every part took some fucking around to modify it to fit the new motor. Also stripped the old motor to find the damage.. It had eaten something pretty small and metallic in to #6 which became inbedded in the head and was getting lightly tapped every time piston got to the top. All the bearings are showing almost no wear so the whole process is looking like a bit of a waste of time. Oh yeah the new turbo is also dead.. that cost me about $100 per kilometer. I'm bit sick of the car again, so having a break from it for a couple of days, i'll look at getting the sump, clutch and flywheel on mid next week and slott the motor back in.

It should be fine you'll just need some 10 series tyres.

Odd as it may sound this kind of makes me want to buy an mx5 and actually pull off a slightly less ambitions ride height / wheel combo. Maybe a 14 or 15x8 at 0 offset would work nicely without flares. Such as this sort of thing (since i already have a set of these wheels) Goes off to trawl trawl trademe.....

Loving the nosejob, it looks friggin sweet.

I might be able to make the 9th.

I know the Evo 4 plus has a different arrangement to mount to the subframe and requires different axles when swapping to to an RS unit. As for the 1-3's i'm not too sure but it would pay to check..

# 4 is at the gearbox end.

Just saw this, I might jump in the car and head out... won't be an old car they are still all in auckland. I'll be in my rather untidy silver evo.

Nah i don't know what cam it had in it when it was first built. I'd suggest the 286 is probably a bit wild for a road car, unless you don't mind having to dial up around 2500 rpm to get the car moving. (the big wheels don't help) My mate had a 1293 with 731 cam and a pair if 1 1/4 carbs, it had a really nice torquey feel to it. Pretty sure it made around 50kw atw. The 286 really needs 7000+ rpm to be making the most of it. I'm hoping the 296 will pull nicely to around 8k but time will tell.

Kinda liking the pin striping, maybe I'll put some back on SUPR6 pretty sweet machine and way less butchered than the red machine parked in my shed.

1j turbo's are coming down in price? although big turbo diesel sounds like a pretty cool option.