mjrstar

Unlikely that the mini s/m will fit, it is a inertia pull type and the marina (well at least the one I had) was a conventional throw out type. The Mini has an external solenoid and the marina has a built in solenoid which will also make life difficult. Mini one below. and the marina type (well at least what was fitted to mine) Unless the later model ones a different??

should be pretty sweet.. chuck a bit of fresh oil down the turbo oil feed and see how it feels, chances are it's dry as a nun's nasty.. I'd say you'll be needing an epic dash pot spring for that hif44 given the amount of suck the rotary should be providing. Is throttle cable positioning going to be an issue??

I wouldn't dother with the twins, although I suspect a later model HIF44 from a rover v8 would bolt on (if there is sufficient clearance to the exhaust manifld) this would be slightly less nasty than the HS6. I hate to say it but i had one of these as my 1st car back in the early/mid 90's. It was, ahem... ok for tail out action on gravel if you really pushed it.. Other than that is was pretty horrible..

I'd suggest this, or possibly slightly bigger depending on positioning, you don't want to mess about with cheap/dodgy boost control, It will make the poor rotary go boom. A decent W/G is cheap insurance on a turbo build.. It may also be worh looking for a replacement internally gated turbo such as a T28 from sylvia or similar, to save on fab work?

He's done a bloody nice job, I like what he's done with the firewall end of the trans tunnel, Mine is still factory along the top edge which makes it a total arse to remove #5 and #6 spark plugs. My car had the same patch of rust under the battery bracket, it didn't take much to tidy it up. Do you reckon the rear strut bar will do much? You are still using the factory seats for the rear springs so I would have thought there would not be much pressure around the top of the shock mounts.

The second one looks like it "could" be replaced with a rear mount from a KP starlet although they run a single M8 (i think) bolt up through the guts of them.. Could you just run a bump stop in the shock instead?

No epic updates all my other piece of shit cars are taking up my time, this is the most modified car but seems to break down the least.. The bloody mini refuses to stay in one piece and my evo us up on axle stands with a new rear diff and front diff/transfer sitting next to the car. Anyways i took a couple of snaps of the starlet when it did leave the shed.. I brought a new gas bottle for the mig and some super skinny cutting discs in anticipation of hacking into the rear guards..

Well a bit more of a "test" drive resulted in quite the exhaust leak.. I have since busted out the welder and re-shaped the bottom section to give a bit more clearance from the CV's.

Spent ages trying to sort a minor fuel leak from the fuel pump inlet, had a bit more of a fiddle of the tune, does not want to rev with the new needle and spring combo, thinking maybe the spring is too heavy and not allowing the piston to rise fully?

I didn't have much luck with either of the universal type joints, kept blowing apart.. I switched to the later model c.v's and have not been stranded since. I reckon I have a few amusing morri photos, may have to dig them out and SCAN them.

So, in the quest for WOFness, I gave the car a once over. park and tail lights not going with headlights on, but work on park. (FIXED) dodgy british/my wiring Left front wheel bearing loose (FIXED) leaking rear right brake slave cylinder (FIXED) full of orange goo/rust loose lower steering column bush, (FIXED) this is just a bit of felt which I packed out a bit buggered bushes front control arms (FIXED) see below The r/h inner CV seems a bit loose where it exits the gearbox, unsure what the go is, I know there is a brass bush inside of where the output shaft seal is, I have not pulled it apart to investigate further. It doesnt seem to make any noise or leak any worse than the rest of the engine/box The control arm bushes were odd, they are around 10 years old, but have done less than 10,000miles. they have turned to what can best be described as a consistency somewhere between crayons and old dry cheese. Very crumbly/a bit mushy. They were urethane maybe the constant oilyness of the underside of the car got to them?? To my astonishment Te Awamutu Repco had bushes in stock... unsure what else mr wof man find will find but i should have shortened the to-do list

interested in youe e-pinions should i grab these and ditch the 6-4 stud adaptors on the rear?

The method above works for my starlet, although does nearly induce heart attacks occasionally/lots. That housing combo does look to be a little mismatched.

Think I may have to get one of these shortly, although the challenge would be to replace the exhaust and chuck suspension/wheels at it in less than 41 pages of OS banter.

yeah cheers man I'm pretty well versed on the minge engine, I rebuilt it myself a few years back. The flywheel has been Fxxxed with (even the ring gear is no-longer full thickness) and all that remains in the way of markings on it are a few pin punch marks for the balancing. It had undergone a fair bit of surgery to shed some weight before I got hold of it. I had thought of putting my own marks on the flywheel, but have since decided that rigging something up on the front pulley might be easier/quicker. Sadly the car doesn't look as good as it did 10 years ago when the paint was 1st done, it had a 4 year stint of sitting outside in a car port which has not done it too many favours.

well I continued to fiddle with the carb a bit last time I was home, tried a different dash pot and piston and a heavier piston spring. still not happy with the way it pulls,(plus i think tacho is reading low) also need to sort the slip joint out for where the LCB extractors join the collector, I was thinking some t-bolt stainless clamps might to it. Mirror pic of towage from auckland to hamiltron. muffler mods have been only semi successful, i think it's taken it from 250DB to 245DB....

I am also a sucker for non bleedage, just take the 2 bolts off the slave cyl and tuck it out of the way. Surely my 6 cylinder turbo would be taking up a it more realestate than your N/A 4 pot? Reverse mount the master cyl inside the car with a remote reservoir?

^^Sweet Paint skills.. Well if that's the case you MAY just need to do what I did and swap to an import speedo and cable, depending on where it sits on the box. I put this speedo back in to the nz spec bugeye cluster. It even reads pretty much bang on with the 3.9 diff and 205/50/15'' semi slicks. The cable is probably a tiny bit on the short side but the motor and box are pretty well back in my car. Hydraulic clutch FTW if you are going to run a heavier pressure plate, the hilux m/c is tiny and does the trick, matched up to the standard KP pedal arrangement.

My mate used to run 15-20% petrol mix in his mid 90's Citroen, seemed to give it a bit more power on the hills.. Unsure if it was likely to do any long term damage.. Glad no-one here has suggested a home made hydrogen generator...

Well the muffler/exhaust mods didn't go too bad, except my new gas bottle for the mig had a F***ed thread so the gasless welds ended up a bit average, i have gone from a straight through stainless muffler to the offset pressed steel one. Has a bit more fiddling with the mixture and it's running a bit happier, although still bogs a little on the gearchange, chasing the throttle seems to reduce the problem, I might try a heavier oil in the carb dash pot? Engine bay is looking rather sad after years of neglect, may have to give it a bit of a scrub-up.. also the bonus of owning smaller than average cars.. Chucked the timing light on it too, but then I remembered I don't have any timing marks I'm thinking I might make my own with a white paint marker ?

Turns out the lean problem was the needle had turned green with a layer of hard oxidisation which let f-all fuel past the jet, the jet was also seized so adjusting the jet screw was not changing the height.. Does anyone know if the metro HIF44 has a different choke setup to the older style SU's? I know the old hs6 used to just drop the main jet down about 1/2 an inch, but this new carb doesn't seem to do that, maybe it runs a second orifice for choke? Anyways with almost no tuning (other than blip the throttle and turn the screw) I have it running pretty good on the new carb and needle setup, it bogs slightly between gear changes and runs on a little when you switch the engine off.. Sadly the car does feel like a slug compared to both the evo and the starlet but i guess you can't expect too much from an 8 valve 1300 rocketship.. I'm sure it felt quick 10 years ago... Next step will be to fit a bigger (quieter) Muffler i have stashed in the garage, no self respecting WOF man would hand over a sticker at it's current noise level.

Fuel Float stuck closed? How about you get adventurous with some engine start/crc/petrol/dynamite down the carb and see if it fires? I also remember every one of those old 4g63 carbies i have dealt with has a coozed auto-choke on it

Ha-ha fools, no real update here, although i am stoked with Nikks Artwork. I'll be looking for a nice wof man in the Hamilton area, Nothing too dodge as the car is Certed. It'd be good to be able to legally put a few k's on it this summer. it's been a too long since the it's been used in anger. Still need to figure out why it seems to be running lean,I might just chuck the wideband at it and see if any of the other carb needles I have a better suited.

Just my experience with my setup, could be more to do with the welder than the gas etc.. who knows.

I have the older version of this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Business-farmi ... 791911.htm I would not reccomend it as it tends to overheat/trip out if you do a decent length weld on the high settings. Also I only use co2 which is a bit rubbish for thicker stuff but is ok for the bit of panel steel/exhaust work i normally do. I definately would not undertake a serious project with it like building a trailer...