mjrstar

It didn't take long to piece this back together after I went to town to buy the seal i needed and some circlip pliers... As for the turbine wheel... I decided to take off any burrs that wanted to come off easily (with a sharp knife) and leave it at that, it seemed to work all-right

So I started on plan B on the turbo front if the current turbo turns out to be a disaster.. Part A is an Evo 9 core and housings. Part B involves a evo 4 turbo that i got cheap off Tardme .. Part C is a brand new 15GK2 compressor from either an Evo 6.5 TME or possibly Evo 7 GTA. (this was purchased in haste before I found part I was slightly surprised at the overall height of the 15GK2 compressor being quite a bit taller than the factory evo 4 compressor. Anyways I index marked the compressor shaft,wheel,nut and pulled the e4 turbo apart and all looks reasonably healthy, well apart from what looks to be some thrust wear on the inducer of the turbine wheel.. Any thoughts on de-burring the turbine wheel vs just chucking it in as is?? For interests sake I chucked the mildly bent evo 9 Ti-Al tubine wheel on the scales and it came in at 120 grams which is a fair wack lighter than the 200g unit I pulled from the evo 4 turbo. The plan will be to just jam the evo rotating assembly inside the 9 core and see how it goes, i just need to buy a big arsed o-ring for the compressor housing and some fresh loc-tite for the compressor wheel nut.. Probably not a very exciting update as it's not a dinner plate sized turbo, but I reckon it could be a nice compromise for the starlet?

Sounds like a brilliant idea... do it. It can't be any worse than a 1GGTE in a starlet.

I run a set of KFFL-11's in the back of my starlet, they are either rx3 or early rx7 fronts (can't remember which), The free length is 240mm. In the front I had before were a set of Lovells which didn't ride too bad for the height but I have since gone to an adjustable height set-up.

Sounds similar to an old r100 race car??

car is finally wof tastic, think th old buggers at the testing station must be deaf to pass it but hey I can't complain.. The clutch seems to be behaving itself again, although have ordered a slave rebuild kit and a new hose, along with a few other niceities such as a choke cable and proper throttle cable from the UK.. mildly unrelated pic..

top effort... Also does karate chop method work on tube steel?

the red one.

Just unbolt the 2 EGR thingees from the inlet manifold and make up some thin aluminium "gaskets" which do not have any holes in them for the exhaust gas to go through. Unsure on your other questions..

I originally ran the split master on my car, but it never really felt quite right, I went back to the standard master cylinder and have a pretty decent pedal and had no problems passing the brake test on the certification. The split master would pinch a front wheel too easily which was pretty un-nerving. In saying this you might get away with the adjustable bias valve if you took the guts out of the proportioning valve by the rear subframe, although I'd be tempted to try with the standard 1100 m/c and see how it feels. I'm Pretty sure they are the normal 8.4'' disc... But I'll look in to it a bit more first..

the big pipe on the head feeds the tank, the other side should have had a little plastic filter (mine had smashed off too) and the small pipe feeds the unloader. How much and where did you get the pressure switch from?? i broke mine and couldn't find a decent priced replacement..

sorry maybe I wasn't clear..I'm already rocking the early metro 4 pot set-up but I liked the look of your rotors.. I was going to get some new ones from Minispares but I'm thinking the freight would be a killer.. As for the cam, i wouldn't do too much i believe the 1100's can tend to be a bit weak in the crankshaft department. also the smaller the motor the more difference the cam makes. ie: a mild cam for a 1275 would be aggressive in a 998cc motor. You may find the factory 1275GT cam would go nicely in the 1100? I would not go near another re-ground cam considering how cheap new cams for mini's are. I have a re-grind Kent 286 Scattercam which i am not all that happy with, i just need to get my arse into gear and fit the genuine 296 kent cam I just made up some new lines for the brakes and run twin pipes from the sub-frame, although i reckon if i was going to do it again i'd run a transfer pipe from one port on the calliper to the other one.. the twin lines are ugly and need some covering to stop them rubbing against each other.. I have a re-grind Kent 286 Scattercam which i am not all that happy with, i just need to get my arse into gear and fit the genuine 296 kent cam.

this looks like it's going to be a nice tidy build.. I am also keen on the details for the discs, I'm running the non vented metro 4 pots and the discs are starting to look a little aged.. I didn't see any info on cam and carb selection? It can make or break the engine setup.

the brakes are sorted, Interestingly the new figures are 60-60 so maybe the r/h shoes were a little on the grippy side of things...

probably a tad on the small side? I would rock something like this providing it is in good condition and you are not looking to make massive power http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 411003.htm

Yeah I have no problems with doing things properly.. I took the drums to a brake and clutch shop in frankton today but they were unkeen to give them a machine up, i even tried to find some replacement cooper s drums but they just looked at me funny... The drums were brand new when i certed the car and mileage has been minimal, (750 miles in the last 5 years) they do still look like new inside..

Fingers crossed for tomorrow.... good point on the tyre pressures dude.. I also noticed that due to a reasonable about of slam the car is almost touching the middle of the machine between the rollers when it squats.. so we played with the position of the car a bit (both left and right) It HAS to be a friction based problem as the handbrake takes the hydraulic side of things out of the equation.. Had considered cranking the adjusters up some more although did not want to cook the poor little drums. I also had a go on the machine and applying progressively more pedal pressure (compared to the weak old man) I was able to get them a bit closer than the was (about 90 & 65). The plus side is the bunch of old fellas at the testing station are all pretty good blokes and were willing to fiddle with the test a bit to try and get a better reading.

So the mini has been getting a bit of a workout lately in the quest for wof ness, and has developed an annoying issue with the clutch. Occasionally it does not dis-engage after changing gear, which makes me look like a c***t due to the amount of noise the car makes.. Have bled the system but still seems to be slow sometimes and other times you need to fiddle with the pedal to get it to grip, dammed intermitant faults... I had considered the possibilty of shit in the slave cylinder making it stick??

So I took the mini for some wof action this morning, and the only thing it failed on was rear brake imbalance, due to the miniature size of the umboosted drums it managed a whopping 90 on the r/h and 40 on the l/h. Oddly it is for both the handbrake and the foot brake (exactly the same figures) So as you can see this is outside the 20% imbalance.. which is a bit of a pain in the arse because it only give me a maximum allowable difference of 19 left/right. I have scuffed up the drums and shoes and taken it back for a recheck and it's still no good..I'm happy that i have the adjusters set correctly. I have since chucked some new pads in it and swapped drums from side to side. and will be taking it back AGAIN tomorrow.. I had planned on getting the drums machined but the brake shop didn't want to do them due to not having a taper in the centre bore?? they also said they looked ok (they have probably done less than 2000 miles in the last 10 years) So basically i'm after any other sneaky tricks I can try to get this sorted out, i had contemplated getting the drums sand blasted since machining was not an option in case my sand-papering was not enough to remove any glazing.. Also i am un-keen to take to another wof shop which does not have rollers as the car was not picked up for any other faults. Cheers Matt

nice paint choice.. I'm pretty sure I have a set of the 1GGZE cam covers with the "24 valve blah blah" which were polished a while back if you were after a different look...

I got a pile of shims off Escorta a while back (cheers man) and finally got around to re-doing all the clearances today. (bloody 24 valve) anyway, it all worked out spot on so shouldn't have to worry about them again for a while. I also chucked in a bit more ignition timing to see if it likes that, thankfully the Evo is back on the road after is centre and rear diff replacement so I can get back to concentrating on the real project cars.. I have been talking to a few dyno places in Hamilton and the bloke from Te-Rapa automotive seems like the best candidate to fiddle with the 1's and 0's rather than dragging the car all the way back to auckland for a tune...

My 1GGTE runs one.. No idea how good it is, but there should be no issue removing it, you'll just need a shorter threaded union. I had thought about ditching mine but it's a 1G so it probably needs all the help it can get.

Oh Yeah.. forgot about the EGR mod that sure gave it some more poke....

these seem to breathe a lot of oil.. suggest you pull of the turbo outlet pipe and check that it's not all manked up. I'm pretty sure the wastegate on those is plumbed straight from the compressor cover so unlikely that there is anything controlling the w/g other than this air feed. the next thing i'd do is chuck in a cheap boost gauge and see if it's still making boost when hot. Have a quick look at www.clubisuzu.com (i think) and there will be some info on how to work some magic on the oil breather system.

there was a 1J powered one on Trademe a while back.. that would be more my style..