mjrstar

fastback mx can look pretty tasty...

Hang on a second Phil....something happened back on page 36.. and also page 30.... page 23 not to mention the door chrome strip removal on page 20.

Pretty sure death in the 1100's is due to rod length to stroke ratio or some such? have seen a few give up the ghost around the centre main.. Sell hot 1100 and purchase factory 1275/1300 possibly? i have some old (real) photos of my mini somewhere, it used to rock some widened cooper s rims and a008's until i did the disc brake conversion..

This, My mate started a project a few years ago, he has the beams mounted in his mk1 cortina, the throttle body is full of traction control wizardry and there is bugger all clearance for cam covers.. Project is on hold as he has gone to the UK for a bit...

early Vr4 (and possibly similar era Galant, no doubt phil will confirm) are pretty popular, my mate had one grafted onto a pinto dizzy shaft. seemed to work a treat. Also Agreed with Spencer as there is off the shelf trigger wheels available for the likes of old a series mini's...(remember this from when I dreamt of efi'ing my mini)

Thanks Mr plasticdash for clearing up my hazy memories of the turbo project that was... Also I recall some issue with a queer/ epically tall diff ratio yes/no?? (bare in mind 10-12 years ago i spent waaayy more time drunk than sober so may not be recalling all 100%) Mr Kytyler does have a point the old holden straight 6 does sound rather lovely with thrice worth of carbs. Possibly some basic electronic "points" setup could be robbed from a VK or similar?

James/Plasticdash had a turbo setup to suit an old VH? It was about 10 years ago / details may evade me but i'm pretty sure it used some sort of holley, there was also a decompression plate probably to be sandwiched between 2 head gaskets, and a basic log manifold. Sadly the project did not eventuate and I guess the kit was onsold.. Hopefully mr plasticdash will be along to fill in the fuzzy gaps.. You'd probably need to look at some sort of boost retardation etc..

might be worth a Search?? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=445&hilit=how+to+polish+rims also I hope you have plenty of time on your hands..

Agreed this project needs more LS1 or similar..

nice work.. man I was gutted when i had mine nicked.. probably should build another one although costs will have gone up since 2001 size wise you will be on a winner there, mine had a 3.5x1.8 deck, and was no dramas with most stuff including a LWB ford econovan and a mitsi v3000 s/w.. also had a touch over 3 tonne of builders mix.. EDIT: Nah Ned never showed up...

aah sorry I mis-read you option 1... The car is my rather rough and ready evo 4.. Coils are factory off a 2ZZ (or possibly 1NZ)corolla, you can also use k20 honda or altezza ones also, mine are 4 wire (with tacho feed which i cut off) i just ran adaptor plugs from the TPS off a v6 mazda into the factory loom.. another cheap option for a good coil is the dual post from an early 90's diamante i run these on my 1g powered starlet.. have a search on EVOM or MMC (ok maybe not mmc)for more specific mitsi ignition faults it may be more benificail compared to oldschool?? the ignition idea comes from here: http://www.sparktechignitions.net/store/ But does not come with the $600 usd price tag.. (cost me $120 for a full corolla loom, coils, starter and alternator off trade-me) as for spark plug choice, I'm pretty sure this runs some BP7 Iridiums that were in the car when I brought it a couple of years ago.. (Same plugs as my 1ggte starlet) which seem happy at 20+ psi.. Click here for some more coil info.. http://s-86.com/s-coilpacks.html and some of the bunch of shit i got off tardme... i had it running like this.. ha.. you get the idea anyway.. I'll stop now.. it's a bit OT for oldschool..

would option 4 be to provide more volts??? or possibly make the volts closer to the plugs ie: COP instead of running long leads? I ditched factory coils in favour of a COP set-up (still wired up in waste spark configuration) Maybe the car is sensing knock and switching over to the low octane map/table (richer a/f with less timing) ? This can be a Bastard of a trap when tuning a factory evo ecu as you have to adjust both tables take and take it for a run then add in you saftey margin on the low octane map again before you finish off the re-flash.

someone PM'd me about videos of the car in action... the only one i know of is this 4 year old dyno video.. Seeing as i don't own own a video camera or know how to operate you-tube. You need to fast forward to around 2 minutes, as the first bit is just us talking crap about FPR plumbing..

looking good, If you don't have your heart set on the brembos as a hydraulic handbrake set-up I'd suggest the series 4 rx7 rear calipers with the handbrake mechanism built in as a much simpler option.

Pretty sure i'm just going to hit it with some acid, wash it off, jam on some sort of sealer and a couple of coats of epoxy, surely if i can paint my own car then sticking some paint on the floor should be a piece of piss.

yeah?? do explain (am i missing a joke here), as far as i'm aware it's some massive concrete grinding machine they bring to knock the top off the concrete and give a good sufrace to adhere to? i have been browsing/reading a bit about it here... http://www.jacjay.co.nz/seal-krete/?p=products

So I have had a couple of outfits out to chat about the surface protection for the concrete, and the burglars want between $55 and $70 a square metre (plus GST) to prep and coat the floor,so it looks like i'll be doing something myself..

have had great success with water, just need a sharp blade to get a corner lifted and get a squirty bottle with water in it and away you go.

A bit of windows photo editor (no photoshop here)

I never had it throw any codes in my car when hitting the cut. Not too sure that you could accuratly check plug colour after a missfire unless you turn it iff as soon as it miss-fired? at high reves, which might be pretty uncool for the turbo bearings.... Otherwise the colour would just reflect the last driving or idle condition?? I could be wrong though?? Das the car had anything done to improve airflow, dump pipe, exhaust, camshaft, compression ratio,intake?

I'd say 17psi would be getting close to max airflow cut-out, (espeially on a cool morning)but when you hit this is not really anything like a miss-fire, it is more like a hard cut-out (well at least it was in my evo) If it was my car I would be mildly tempted to introduce a small boost leak and take it for a run to see if it actually makes your symptoms worse. (does it then miss-fire at a lower boost level) Also does the car rev out cleanly off boost? ie: make revs climb gently at 1/4 throttle in second or 3rd gear whilst still showing vacuum on the boost gauge.

What plugs are you running (what gap) and are there any fault codes? Any signs of turbo smoke at high boost? it could be the afm load cell (commonly called fuel cut or boost cut) but normally you'd have to run around 17 psi to hit that (or less with a bigger turbo)

I wouldn't like to speculate, although I guess the longer roof bits which didn't get as far as being fastened onto the structure could be re-used. However all the side pieces have a million tek screw holes would almost certainly be rubbish bin spec. I would have been pretty unhappy if 18 months down the track each little imperfection started to bleed the thing would look like an abortion.

I suspect there was a bit of swarf on some part of the roll forming machine as every 700mm or so there was a small half moon shaped impact (fingernail size) which had taken the colour coating off.. They were pretty hesitant with my suggestion of replacement with and offered $200 off he said it would not affect the warranty and had not gone through the galv (like hell I was going to take that) I compared it to spending 30+k on a new car and for it to arrive with 40-50 scratches in it.. would you accept a 200 settlement.. I doubt it. It didn't help his cause when he arrive in a new v10 diesel VW tourag the company is not hard up and could well cover the cost of the new iron.. It has led to a bit over 2 weeks delay which is not ideal, but like you say eventually they did honour thier product, it could be a little difficult for me to claim back the extra $400 that it's cost me for the duration extension of the kitset insurance. But I will try as i think they should cover it. Yeah Ryan skylight is now more weatherproof spec than pictured.

have been speaking with resene about flooring paint, one lot suggested durepox and the other suggested uracryl 402 more confused than before now... A few dramas with the shed build which involved me inviting the manager of metal-craft out to my place and after a bit of discussion he agreed to all the iron being replaced.