mjrstar

Good stuff man, I will probably do something similar in the engine department to to my kp if the 1G gives up the ghost.. I already have a few evo bits in the shed from one of my other cars... I was a little worried by the cam wheel height as they are a fairly tall/bulky 4 cylinder but it seems to fit in there pretty well.. What is the plan for the clutch??

So I had a day or two side tracked off the starlet ( good excuse to say the paint was hardning up??) I shifted focus onto my $266 trademe lawnmower. The main thing it needed was a bit of keyway steel for the right hand axle.. it also needs a battery but starts not too bad off jumper leads.. Anyway back on track.. this is pretty much pieced back together now... I just need to find the M12 banjo bolt for the fuel rail and connect up a couple of lines under the car... you may have noticed the internal fill cap has been replaced with the sender which runs the factory gauge..... I reckon this should be more useful than having 2 filler caps.

A bit more messing around, I now have a drain hole with a hose tail attachment, a vent attachment, feed and return holes... and a quick coat of paint using the very last dregs I had left in the tin... I'm pretty much over this part of the project so will be keen to get into slap it together mode.. I'm not expecting any real dramas other than the filler neck joiner where the tank joins to the spout, its going to be a cuuuuunnnnnnnn..... to get that hose to slide into position i reckon... but time will tell.. Must go watch paint dry now.

Impressed. Keep up the good work this thing is coming along nicely.

Fair enough, my car is running a big cam, high compression and oversized valves, carbs would need to be good for a touch over 100HP... As you were.

Buy a set of 4 and I will take the other 2 off your hands / then attempt to fit them to my Mini... Something around 38 - 40mm would suit me I reckon.

Please spend an hour re-enforcing rear strut tops. Then do a skid..

Not T50 specific as it looks like KPR has that covered: BUT I would be tempted to give it a new gut of oil, something semi synthetic, it probably wont fully cure the problem but it may assist with the notchy feel a bit.

How about trialling a bypass switch for a bit, give it 10 seconds of glow via rangily wired in switch and see if it assists?

New filler neck and holder made up. (This seemed to take ages to get in the right position even then i was not 100% happy with it..) Rear valence about to go under the knife... Post-op. (Once again not too sure it's done much for the looks, but it should reduce the parachute affect a bit, plus has given me the room I needed for the box to fit nicely) Maybe it won't look so bad once the box gets a coat of black under-seal?

unsure about the road legal deal at this stage... probably not to be honest. Plate hinge - yeah HQ's and Mk1 cortinas come to mind, but no doubt there would be some american stuff too, possibly some of the Jeeps?

yeah I tried to find a commodore powered Mazda ute but couldn't find one so had to settle with the yuck herpes machine. /Offtopic Pretty sure the Terranosaurus motor will be running somewhere between 8 and 11 Psi standard boost, depending on year / model etc..

Progress... filling in the wheel well cut-outs which were larger than the new fuel box, the car caught fire a few times but nothing a major. New Filler neck welded on, trial fitted mounting bolts, and brackets etc.. seems to fit ok. Box roughly in position Location of filler cap (still need to come up with a nice way to hinge the number plate.. or do I make a hinged petrol flap and relocate the license plate)

I am semi thinking of changing my 20's for something else a bit less drug dealer looking.. 20x8.5 10P offset.. with 275 45 20 rubber..

Yep... No turning back now I guess.... Should look something like this.. although I might have to have a sit-down and work out exactly how I want it to turn out, rather than playing it by ear... It looks like at least part of the rear valence will have to GTFO.

Progress has been slowed a bit with other jobs on the go.. I did get to spend a bit of time tinkering today.. I had a bit of an issue with the steel distorting, but not too bad.. I used one of those flappy sandy discs that goes on the grinder to finish off the welds...

So I got a bloke in town to fold me up a 4 sided box (no top or bottom) that was 600X600. The plan was to oversize it a bit in case i decided to put a surge tank in at a later date it seemed pretty sweet as I would only have 1 edge to weld up and then plug the base in... This was all good in theory but a second measure underneath revealed that this size box would leave me with little or no diff head clearance.. In the end I trimmed 60mm off 2 sides and then tacked the box together.. working with new clean steel is awesome compared to rusty old Shit. Next I will start with the brackets for mounting the tank, filter and pump.. once that is sorted I will weld the base into the box sides... I will probably also have to devise some form of bender to put a 90 degree flat on the top of the box to provide something for the lid to attach to.. - no major plan here I'll just play it by ear.. Not too sure if the box will get fully welded in or if I should make it removable?

^^ sounds delightful Mr bogangeof. Also will try and make it although my plans differ slightly from those mentioned above...

I thought i better help mr speedflow put his kids through uni so i picked up this pile of pieces, including a very shiny fuel tank (yuck) and a walbro external pump. I'll probably do a mock up of the box in cardboard before i crack out the grinder / welder... plan is to organise some of this nonsense out back (I'm not sure if you can see all 17 hose clips in that photo) I am also hoping to reduce fuel stench in the car and gain enough room to fit up the handbrake system too...

depending on the ride height you might get away with fitting the flares without cutting away the factory guards underneith.. I ran my car like that for a couple of years before i got around to cutting away at them. the front is pretty easy really if you mark it up nicely and take your time.. you won't see the cut away once the flares go on anyway.. the rear is a bit tougher. any 1/2 decent panelbeater should be able to sort it out if you stump up some coin..

I chased this on my wifes corolla for a few days, what you need to know is one side massively high or the other side low.. i ended up getting the valve rebuilt as it was cheaper than buying a new one.. I foolishly tried new shoes and cylinders first to no avail. If it is low on one side then look at shoes and leaky / weak cylinders, if however it is high your proportioning valve is not doing it's job..

cheers for the explanation, I don't think i'll go down the same track of increasing wheelbase in my car, as it will only lead to moving the effective front / rear weight distribution further forward and it must be pretty nose heavy as it is... looking at your pictures i reckon i might (depending on shock eye widths) be able to make 4 large plates, 2 on each side to pick up the lower arm mounts and lower rear shock mounts too.. Will probably focus on the fuel system first though...

It was good to see this back in action, even with a few teething issues, top marks dude..

^^ That would be awesome thanks... I had a look at the early pages on your project thread for a bit of inspiration.. I reckon some laser cut flanges are on the cards for both the lower arm mounts and the shock mounts, what did you use on your car for the rear coil-overs? I was also thinking about the lowering of the diff end arm position and wondering if it is this to regain a horizontal line on a severely lowered car or is there more to it? (my car is not really all that low at present)

I brought the front up 15mm before the track day which has helped with the front end feel. The rear is all factory arms which as you guys mention above would be a good place to start looking to improve. The 33 year old rubbers have probably done thier dash. Sorry no video which is a shame as it does sound pretty decent.