mjrstar

The carpet is pretty sweet addition...

^^ the costs soon escalate, i was on pretty low wages in the airforce as an 18-19 year old and is sure soaked up most of my spare cash... Yeah it's not quite as mint as it was 10 years ago when the rebuild was first done, as it spent a 3-4 years ungaraged. On paper it has a fair few goodies to make decent power but the reground cam has really let it down, sure it sounds cool but is not the 8000rpm screamer it was designed to be. At least now it has a decent dry home.

I dare say (if possible) the best gain in a machine of this spec would be to optimise the gearing through a shorter final drive or closer gearset. Better drop in lap times compared to trying to eek out 30-40 more HP. Well that and top quality brake pads/ fluid would be also way up there on my list.

I like this machine, it has me thinking about the most cost effective way to get my hands on a 90's sedan to hit the track.

i run a heavy duty metro turbo plate and an orange weight diaphragm (pre verto) which has epic bite, what exactly have you pieced together here?

May I suggest you buy and install this. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =400796378

I was told the non turbo heads have a different exhaust manifold patten so it may pay to check this. I would also suspect if the engine is healthy enough it should be happy to run 8-10 psi without a new geadgasket ( I ran 20 psi on my old 1gge motor). What is the plan for the ECU, the n/a one probably won't be too happy dealing with boost?

Very nice tidy build, I might have to get me a fancy crank seal when I get around to putting my straight cut close ratio box in my mini.

I painted my starlet in 2K as my 1st paintjob in the shed using basic equipment... It's far from perfect but it's not too bad... (don't really have any super close-up shots) I'm planning on giving my evo a lick of paint this summer and see how it turns out... I am a novice so can't really give you any advise, other than to keep things dust free and give it a go.. what's the worst that can happen, youv'e wasted a few hundred bucks on paint..

The other garage is still a bit of a disaster zone but i'm trying to limit putting "stuff" into the new shed. If it's not a car, bits of a car, or something to fix a car it can GTFO basically..

It's a bit hard to see the scale but the tall shelves are 2.3M high and the bench is 3M long...

I believe the anti surge cover will direct inlet air over the compressor blades at the correct angle of attack (great for high boost high rpm situations) but it sounds like your engine simply can't "eat" the air at the rate the turbo is producing it. In short I doubt you'll have any joy by going to an anti surge comp cover. Cam selection and cam timing is probably the easiest place to start. (other than asking the turbo to make less boost) I'm not familiar with that turbo but being twin scroll and BB it's likely to make a fair bit of boost pretty low down.

Agreed, I ran my car like this to prime the oil to the new turbo, realistically unless car runs like poos all the time the disconnection method is unlikely to work as a diagnostic tool..

My evo would idle ok(ish) but not rev nicely with the AFM disconnected.

My wife's airtrek does windows up etc.. and also a long press on the lock button will fold the mirrors away... (fuck knows why) Boot popper sounds good if it's already electric.

I ran 15x7's with a 205/50/15 inside the guards. And have since gone to 15x8's with flares, but if i wasn't stuck with a 15'' rim to clear my brakes I'd probably be rolling some 14x8 rear 14x7 front with something around 195 wide.

Will be pretty cold on a frosty morning, although only takes a couple of hours of sun on it to get pretty toasty inside.. novice camera operator but you get the idea.. and the other garage/disaster zone which has been storing the cars for the last year...

It was $25 for a 5 litre of acid etch, and around $800 for the paint, as it turns out I have a fair bit left, it seemed to cover at a better rate than advertised... I ended up going with a durepox and brought: 3X 4 litres colour 1x 4 litre of clear 1x 4 hardener 1x 4 litre reducer/thinners The finish is not mint, but considering it's just a workshop floor I'm happy enough with it..

Floor painted...

Fuck the mobile phone and air con and put some sweet ITB's on it..

I use KYB's out of a vitara and king KFFL11 in the rear for a pretty decent drop. Just remember that the trianguated 4 link will bind up if you try to go too low.

will probably be shit under the float valve seat, so will not seal when the float is right up.. I have had this on a few occasions.. just whip out the pin for the float and have a bit of a clean-up in there.. (part 19)

I found the advance to be inaccurate on points, it would waver around a bit, they didn't like damp weather and converting to electronic meant i could use a higher voltage coil. electronic > points and for the price i reckon there is no better upgrade for an old mini... As for my manifold, it's probably not going to perform all that well on a factory head.

I probably have a spare cast manifold to suit a 1 3/4 Carb and possibly a HIF44 as well... I would automatically assume that the carb would need a rebuild/new seals as it has not been used for 4-5 years. The likely-hood is I don't have a fat enough needle to run a mild 1100.. NINJA EDIT: I just had a thought that the manifold probably has epic porting to match my heavily modified 1275 head so might not perform so well on the small bore motor... also the best mod you can do to any mini is to fit a honda civic / nissan pulsar dizzy.. get rid of those nasty points.. http://www.niksula.hut.fi/~mdobruck/sii ... ien/dizzy/ there is another site (i found about 10 years ago) which has some more info bu i can't seem to dig it up again..

WOW that is an ambitious plan you have there fine sir. I'm Glad I'm not paying the bill!!!