mjrstar

I got the seats mounted up, with some pretty solid mounting structure- think total disregard for weight saving... I would say the mounts would be easily strong enough to lift the car.. Also obtained small sealed battery and made up some over-engineered bracketry to hold it in the car.. The plan will be to obtain a kill switch so I don't have a bundle of connectors threatening to damage the rather small terminals on the battery..

I got my new welder finally, so it was time to clear the backlog of farmers welding jobs and then shift focus back to the starlet.. It all went pretty well with not major fires or run-away grinders.. only one spot where i melted the paint slightly which isn't covered by the flares. prep weld prime and underseal job done she ain't the flashest finish under there but it'll do the trick. I also got the majority of the seat mounts on the passengers side sorted out... I'm still in 2 minds about how exactly I will do the drivers side as it has base mount holes not side mounts.. I am formulating a plan of attack for the fuel system, and the possibility of a rear wing.

The 1gge will run 3 separate gaskets/flanges for the exhaust side of the head.. also in inlet runners are pretty tightly packed / close together as it's a reasonably short 6 cylinder.. good luck and keep us updated.

I would suggest avoiding this stuff, pay a bit more fore Resene etc..

had similar issues with my mini... normally as this is the lowes point any moisture in the fluid will end up down in there, my slave was all crudded up inside, I hacked into it with some scotchbrite and a chucked in a couple of new seals and it's good as gold.. about 80c worth of parts. Luckily as my car runs a straight cut box the clutch pedal use is optional, even for starting off if it'll select 1st if you are quick enough..

are the ones from jaycar at that money drycell or a SLA..

keen to jump on board if someone is looking at a group buy or has some sweet contacts..

I am looking to continue making the starlet slightly more legit, and a proper battery mount is on the list, as it's a hatch and the battery isn't under the bonnet I have been looking at dry cell as an option, saves on pissing around with a properly vented box..the car has just the engine to run and the lights/wipers etc.. no massive stereo or anything silly like that. the engine pretty much fires up within about 2-3 seconds of cranking when hot or cold.. http://www.batterydirect.co.nz/vertex_d ... attery.htm these seem to be sharply priced, but i wanted to know if anyone has used one and was it any good etc..I don't want to go down this path if it ends up needing constant jump starting. Also keen on other suggestions. cheers

ED, your discussion thread is too hard to find, also run some Toyota COP setup as found in a late model beams 3sge or 2ZZ etc.. My evo seems happy running this set-up on waste spark.. Fred for helps: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forum ... nfo-thread

So I have decided it's time to bin the reclining seats, as I hated having to hold onto the steering wheel / grab handle for support whilst hooning into the sweeper at Pukekohe.. I obtained a Bride seat some time back but it's pretty bloody uncomfortable, so I was reasonably happy when this lady had a suitable seat for sale on the tard.. Obviously the seat is Smurf spec blue, but for $150 including runners and a set of expired belts (probably not much use) I'm not going to complain.. As far as the seat mounting, all I need to get is a few long self tapping screws, some flathead galv nails and maybe a handful of zip ties... Alternatively, my welder should turn up in the next couple of days so I could whip up some steel brackets, my loose plan plan includes some 3mm wall thickness 1'' box, I probably won't run the sliding rails, this should help to keep the overall seat height fairly low.

so i'm not really planning on doing much more to this other than a carb upgrade, it's somly not able to get enough fuel to pull nicely past about 6500 RPM i have trimmed the needle to within an inch of it's life, but it's still asking for more fuel in the top end. my original thoughts were a pair of VTR1000 carbs on a custom manifold, bearing in mind I would like to make around 100hp at 8000rpm and the engine technically should support this with the 296 duration cam, big valves and a decent dose of compression, but remember I only have 2 inlet ports to work with.. having read a few of the bike carb threads i'm tempted to look a bit smaller in the carb department... or maybe just one from the VTR1000 which are 50mm?? Suggestions welcomed.

After hooning my brother in law's 10A PP R100, I am considering piecing together a 13B PP for giggles, in a lightweight chassis..

Keen, will try and make it

^^ agreed.. When I changed to the 3.9 ratio in the starlet/ hilux diff, I just did a backlash feel by hand (not sloppy or notchy) and it seems to do the trick. (Quieter than that the other 4.3 ratio was) maybe I was just lucky..

try this for an explanation

I have a link plus and autometer tacho in my starlet... i have tried it with it wired from the igniter output and from the ecu output, and although it does work it seems slow/lazy either way.. Pretty much gave up on paying attention to RPM's, just change up when it's feels about right..

Good stuff man - it's a nice looking conversion. May I suggest from personal experience at addition of a brake master cylinder heat-shield, and try re-routing the throttle cable away from the turbo. Possibly some better quality tubing and clamps for the likes for the fuel pressure regulator / waste-gate actuator might not go a miss either, that blue silicone hose can be a bit soft/rubbish.. Also execution of aforementioned skid is obligatory.

I'm thinking some powdercoated 13x8 steelies would do the trick nicely for this beast..

Today's recipe is: Draw. Cut. Bend Cut. Hrm.. missing a photo of second cut.. Meh.. Fold. Repeat. Slam. Pre slam photo for comparison You may have noticed that the cook/weld part of this recipe has been omitted.. good spotting as this is still on the to do list.. Will also need to figure out the plan of attack for rear springs/shocks as the low spings i had were WAY too soft to handle nicely.

Right... Yeah I do actually still own this So I'm not too sure exactly where this is heading at present, but my short term plan is to fit up the handbrake cables, tidy up the fuel system (need to ditch the fuel tank to fit the handbrake mechanism), fix up where the floor-pan has tried to pull away from the sills, make a proper battery mount, make some proper mounts for the seats etc... from there I plan on attaching the rear guards with plan to trim out the lips to allow more low.. (hopefully without burning too much paint) So the majority of this will involve welding inside the car and i have a major dislike for shit catching fire whilst i weld so it was time for the sound deadening to GTFO. Add 2kg's of dry ice, some time with a hammer /screwdriver and a wipe down with degreaser / thinners. I split the dry ice up into a few shopping bags and left it for about 20mins and it came off like a dream.. Might even do a bit of stitch / seam welding in a few places too... Just need to get my hands on a new welder.. So on the fuel system, I'm thinking single lift pump (something quieter than the holley black I have) and a single pressure pump (instead of the twin pumps I currently have) and a fuel cell (around 40 ish litres) all mounted in a steel box made to fit where the spare tyre well is currently.. Not sure if I will use my mis-matched jamex / bride seat combo, i would lave a nice comfy sparco evo or something but it's not really in line with the budget build status.. Also on the look out for some staggered 15x8 and 15x9 combo to add to toughness..

fyi I run 275lb rear springs and 400lb front springs in my starlet. it seems ok at Pukekohe but I don't really push my car to 10 10ths. how was grip over the hill onto the front straight (this is where my car was struggling to hook up) and also out of castrol onto the back straight. it's looking like and angrey beast man.. good stuff

anyone else got photos of the R100 engine bay and rear maybe?

this place is well worth a look if you are anywhere near queenstown etc.. http://www.nttmuseumwanaka.co.nz/museum ... utomobiles maybe this chch dude was attempting to copy him?

^^no. Remove dizzy cap, turn key on and use a screwdriver to open the points, there should be a spark there if you have power. then work towards the coil if no spark work back towards ignition power feed.

reminds me of a guy i know who chased a tapping noise for ages including putting new main and big eng bearings in his trans-am, to find out that he had a power steer pump making the noise. anyway, check accessories such as alternator/generator etc.. using long screwdriver as a poor mans stethoscope. Could also be a worn rocker shaft?