BlownCorona

I have had zero success with diesel in a seized engine, but awesome results from a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. The acetone thins out the oil letting it wick in everywhere and then evaporates leaving the oil behind. Replenish every few days over a couple weeks and some pressure o on the crank each time you top up the sauce and I'd be surprised if it didn't work free.

Me too. Always hunting for my chuck key.

This sounds epic. I'm so down!

Put it in a Honda cub

i dont see any reason you couldnt make one. 3d printed ones can be purchased from someone on the NZMX5 Facebook page, but i cant remember who. i also got banned from that page for consistently pointing out that one of the mods, who is also on oldschool, advice is always horrible and wrong lol.

bmw e36 (or pretty much any bmw) TPS is popular, several options for mounting it to the mx5 throttle

A+ job on designing it so that the tops of the monitors are flush. i hate when my dual monitors at work get bumped out of alignment.

It was the 7.5a fuse. finally tracked down my fuse box lid with the diagram on it, and although i had checked all the fuses. it was located in a separate stack of fuses that i thought were spares.... dumbass. runs good now!

youre right, i cant see what the starter is wired in on the above diagrams at all. it must be related to the NSW or else it would start in any gear with the auto it also looks to be that if the AFM wasn't plugged in, the circuit opening relay wouldn't operate. something else ill double check i plugged in/is seated correctly. i definitely removed this for another reason

Used paint stripper on the roof of the crown because the panel beater didn't want to see much heat put into the crazy thin roof panel. Spray store had some new homebrew gel stripper that apperently professional shops said was as good as tergo. It sure ripped the paint off the roof with minimal effort. I'd have used less product if I had a better sheet of plastic to go over top, but I used rubbish bags and the wind kept lifting them. Would trade again

Fitted the clutch master cylinder and made a hose up, possibly hasn't made a nice seal into the soft line but I gave myself extra length just incase. Havnt tried to bleed it up properly yet, was was weeping when I forgot I had only hand tightened it, unsure if the fluid hanging around is from this. But more importantly, got a driveshaft to suit. Now it appears this could be a well kept secret, a while back I saw a flash up on Facebook for someone looking for a w55 driveshaft yoke and someone claimed an altezza driveshaft would fit, before someone else told him to stop giving away their trade secrets. Anyway I grabbed a screen cap just incase I forgot, but also went looking online and couldn't find anyone mentioning they fit, took a gamble and grabed one from pick a part, and yes it did fit! The altezza front half was also really long, perfect for having shortened up to suit the crown. Dropped the whole lot into Circle Track here in chch and in a couple weeks had a shortened altezza front shaft (but longer overall than the original crown piece) and that coupled with the crown rear half and centre bearing all balanced up. Fitted perfect and officially makes the crown manual. Now to sus out why it won't start, fixup and bleed the clutch and fit the handbrake lever, so close!

I will check all that on monday or potentially during the weekend, the cars stored at work unfortunately. I found pictures of the neutral start switch disassembled, and all that it does is bridge to wires in park and neutral. As expected. But also as I've bridged. Admittedly it's only bridged with a paperclip so I'll also make a proper bridge, but there's no reason the clip shouldn't work, as it is working for bridging the dash indicator lights. I don't think the indicator lights talk to the ecu though.

funny you say that - was heading here to give that exact piece if info/clue thought id cracked the case at lunch today when i checked and the signal wire wasn't connected. (i didn't remove the starter, just pushed it out of the way so it must have gotten dislodged) but nope. still exactly the same. took a multi meter to the sense wire and its not getting 12v when trying to start.

Appears I have the correct pins jumped, good to know about the reverse lights in above pic. Starting to consider something else is wrong or has been unplugged/bumped during the swap.

have discovered that "neutral start switch" is the big electrical box on the side of the trans. that the shifter runs through, im pretty certain i have the switch bypassed. as per usual my ill have to check the 7.5a fuse isnt blown, wish i could find the fuse box lid! still keen on input. cheers

also - ignore that last diagram, that apears to be just a bare bones wireup of an ra28

ive had it hooked up to a grunty (will start 5.7 hemi dodge ram with no battery fitted) jump starter. but i dont even hear the starter relay click when i turn the key. are you sure the acc circuit gets power when the key is turned to start? ive even left the auto shifter pluged in, perhaps just that 7.5a fuse has blown. ill double check the wiring around the shifter though

Hello OS collective, I once again have underestimated something. i got my modified driveshaft back today, and as per usual, only yesterday decided id see if the engine would want to start after the manual swap. inevitably, it did not, No problem i thought, probably just needs the ecu to be told its in park, as none of the gear position lights had lit up. Today i went over the auto trans with a multi meter and found what pins were connected when in park. jammed some paperclips in the corresponding plugs and had "P" show up on the dash. still no cranking. doesnt sound like the fuel pump primes, but i cant remember if i could hear this before or not. i dont hear the starter relay click, but the radio ect does turn off when i turn the key to start. Does anyone know what needs to be done to get a 1ggze to start after the auto has been removed? cheers!

or your type R has honda minivan brakes.....

MS Paint edit of what i mean

this may have been mentioned, or already your plan. but if that rear wheel works fine where it is and clears everything, why not just trim the rear of the arch out and weld it back on and inch or so further in to 'center' the wheel in the wheel arch? youd end up with a bit of a shorter wheel arch but i rekon it would look awesome, and be nice and symmetrical

Sorry nothing like that unfortunately. I'd probably still be keen on the door cards and just glue up the vinyl if it's not too hosed, my door cars are just shitty straight black poor quality vinyl. I was gonna have some new ones made too but it's wayyyy down the list

Big fan of the wheels. your progress is getting me so amped to get back into my car after the crown is finished. let me know if you end up swapping out the door cards, id be keen on your ones with the speaker holes cut if you get rid of them

10 straight hours with my father and myself saw the auto ditched and the manual fully bolted into its new permanent home. The swap was very easy mostly due to me thinking about all the parts I may need and pre buying. This even included a new rear man seal because I figured now would be a good chance, looked like it was weeping a little too! The win of the day way the auto trans cross member being very usable for the manual, all that was required was mount holes drilled 30mm further up the chassis. Win! Other wins include the shifter poking through dead center of the centre console hole, and all the bolts being fairly straight forward to reach once the gearbox was unbolted and allowed to drop down at the rear. Good times ahead, with a driveshaft to be sussed and the rest of the clutch parts fitted, handbrake also needs a fitting and probably some electrical wrangling of the AT ecu.

Crown is now parked at work. For perhaps the 2nd time, I saw it in the sun, mostly due to it being parked in a permanently shady spot at home. Love the color so much and am really looking forward to cutting out the orange peel and buffing it up real nice. Also finally bolted thr G-W Bellhousing that came with the car to my w55 I've had stashed away for a while, this is primarily the reason I even bought the car, the thought of a stick shift blown widebody Toyota was too good to go past. Planning on swapping the boxes over next weekend and then I'll be able to sort out the driveshaft, clutch and handbrake stuff during lunch brakes.