BlownCorona

oh man, you are so right there! i have no idea how they fuck up the styling of what i think is one of the much nicer looking replicas out there. modern wheels, scaffolding spec roll bars and messed up ride heights/rake and its game over.

its pretty far off, did consider spacers, but would be an issue come wof time. i assume they were made to suit an mx5, since i cant think of much else thats 4x100 that would have stupidly wide steelies. 9.5 and 10.5 wide! loving the look it gives it, ill eventually paint it in a classic style livery and the wheels probably wont stay black.

Got some new wheels for it since i dont really like the alloys, they dont fit that well, and they are super heavy. turns out these dont fit either. rears need to shift the barrels out by about 1.5" and the fronts could do with a half inch less offset too. silver lining is that the welds arnt fantastic so id by grinding them out and re welding anyway. rear wheels probably need to come out to about here, probably a touch less, to ensure enough clearance on the inside for full suspension travel. will experiment. plus side is i really like how they look and progress the car towards the late 60s racer that i want it to be. so overall pretty happy.

theres not going to be anything left of that toyota on top once you go back to get it out!

Also made up a hub adapter/spacer to fit the open wheeler steering wheel.

new cage starting to take shape really happy with how it looks given that MSNZ rules make you end up (rightfully so) with a really tall main hoop. but 5 degrees lean back and the uprights on 5 degrees make it look a lot less scaffolding spec

Sadly, was intending on racing this at an even today but some real struggles we with motivation recently saw my prep and mods/additions to make it more track suitable and track legal started too slow and too late. Still, I have a new roll bar kit to install including a 5th removable point that will fit into the passengers foot well, and a super tiny steering wheel, this may prove to be too small for road use, but on track will make it significantly easier to exit in a hurry if required. Needs a spacer/adapter made up as the momo PCD will be too close to the edge of the centre. Cage just taped together for a look, obveously some of the tubes are still too long, so some dimensions may change. I also may move where the diaganol goes but need to look into what the rules say. Harness bar to go in here somewhere, but I think they bent it wrong as it doesn't match up the hoop width at the bottom

shit that's going to be a large motor! i had in my head that those parts were the profile of the crankcase and that part housed the crank gear like a standard engine would have a timing gear case on the front of the block

one time it bit me in the ass and the master was a cunt to remove, so i always do now

you should bench bleed any master cylinder before fitment anyway.

the way mx5s are going, this will out value the 110 by 2023 and and he'll pull all the panels off this instead

it would sit on a pallet nicely if separated. so probably wouldn't be too prohibitive to freight.

I have had zero success with diesel in a seized engine, but awesome results from a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. The acetone thins out the oil letting it wick in everywhere and then evaporates leaving the oil behind. Replenish every few days over a couple weeks and some pressure o on the crank each time you top up the sauce and I'd be surprised if it didn't work free.

Me too. Always hunting for my chuck key.

This sounds epic. I'm so down!

Put it in a Honda cub

i dont see any reason you couldnt make one. 3d printed ones can be purchased from someone on the NZMX5 Facebook page, but i cant remember who. i also got banned from that page for consistently pointing out that one of the mods, who is also on oldschool, advice is always horrible and wrong lol.

bmw e36 (or pretty much any bmw) TPS is popular, several options for mounting it to the mx5 throttle

A+ job on designing it so that the tops of the monitors are flush. i hate when my dual monitors at work get bumped out of alignment.

It was the 7.5a fuse. finally tracked down my fuse box lid with the diagram on it, and although i had checked all the fuses. it was located in a separate stack of fuses that i thought were spares.... dumbass. runs good now!

youre right, i cant see what the starter is wired in on the above diagrams at all. it must be related to the NSW or else it would start in any gear with the auto it also looks to be that if the AFM wasn't plugged in, the circuit opening relay wouldn't operate. something else ill double check i plugged in/is seated correctly. i definitely removed this for another reason

Used paint stripper on the roof of the crown because the panel beater didn't want to see much heat put into the crazy thin roof panel. Spray store had some new homebrew gel stripper that apperently professional shops said was as good as tergo. It sure ripped the paint off the roof with minimal effort. I'd have used less product if I had a better sheet of plastic to go over top, but I used rubbish bags and the wind kept lifting them. Would trade again

Fitted the clutch master cylinder and made a hose up, possibly hasn't made a nice seal into the soft line but I gave myself extra length just incase. Havnt tried to bleed it up properly yet, was was weeping when I forgot I had only hand tightened it, unsure if the fluid hanging around is from this. But more importantly, got a driveshaft to suit. Now it appears this could be a well kept secret, a while back I saw a flash up on Facebook for someone looking for a w55 driveshaft yoke and someone claimed an altezza driveshaft would fit, before someone else told him to stop giving away their trade secrets. Anyway I grabbed a screen cap just incase I forgot, but also went looking online and couldn't find anyone mentioning they fit, took a gamble and grabed one from pick a part, and yes it did fit! The altezza front half was also really long, perfect for having shortened up to suit the crown. Dropped the whole lot into Circle Track here in chch and in a couple weeks had a shortened altezza front shaft (but longer overall than the original crown piece) and that coupled with the crown rear half and centre bearing all balanced up. Fitted perfect and officially makes the crown manual. Now to sus out why it won't start, fixup and bleed the clutch and fit the handbrake lever, so close!

I will check all that on monday or potentially during the weekend, the cars stored at work unfortunately. I found pictures of the neutral start switch disassembled, and all that it does is bridge to wires in park and neutral. As expected. But also as I've bridged. Admittedly it's only bridged with a paperclip so I'll also make a proper bridge, but there's no reason the clip shouldn't work, as it is working for bridging the dash indicator lights. I don't think the indicator lights talk to the ecu though.

funny you say that - was heading here to give that exact piece if info/clue thought id cracked the case at lunch today when i checked and the signal wire wasn't connected. (i didn't remove the starter, just pushed it out of the way so it must have gotten dislodged) but nope. still exactly the same. took a multi meter to the sense wire and its not getting 12v when trying to start.