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I don't think it'll fit on my trailer sorry. You're welcome to come and have a look for yourself though. I wouldn't mind checking out the event. Happy to drive something down for you.

Will do. The rain killed my motivation for juggling cars at my shed last night is all. Next month I'll drive my 86 for sure!

I'm not even going to try and hide it. I'm extremely jealous of your fully legal criz wags Al! Good work bro. You have an enviable ability to get shit done on your cars. Hoping there's a spare seat for the poker run this weekend!

Cheers for a choice monthly meet guys. This was one of the best ones in a while. Awesome to see some new faces, and some faces that aren't there all the time. I'm definitely down with a coule of beverages before/after burgers next time.

I've always been told that it's not mandatory to have a spare but if you do have one it must be securely held in place. You definitely need the inside rear view mirror. If you have any doubts the best bet is probably to call your WOF place in advance and check.

If the Fronte pisses you off and you want to get rid of it can I have first dibs? Pretty keen to own one of these things. Im glad someone from OS bought it.

I should have mentioned about the venting/sealing issues. I've had a read through Schedule A and it pretty much just says that the fuel system has to be fully sealed from the cabin so you could build a box around it - just the same as if you have a fuel cell in the boot of the car. I can't see any rules in there saying you can't have it behind the seat (well if toyabusa has done it then i guess its all good) but I may have missed something? Toyabusa - that looks awesome. Pretty much exactly what I imagined. Except possibly centered between the box section of a equal length 4-link setup depending on if I get that far on the inital build.

I've been thinking about what kind of tank setup I want to run on my other AE85 and a number of times now I've come back around to the idea of putting the fuel tank behind the seats, like where the back seat normally is. Why don't you ever see this done? In my tiny mind it seems like a great place to put it for a few reasons: - You're centralising a large dynamic mass so you reducing and stabilising the rotational inertia in yaw (a BIG bonus considering theres no performance decrease) - If the other option is a fuel cell in the boot then you will lower the CoG (at least this is true in an AE85/6) - If the other option is a standard under-boot tank (in which case the CoG will likely be similar) then you free up this space so you can run a big diffuser - Shorter fuel lines - less weight - It's inside of the strength of the roll cage so in a crash it is protected The downsides would be: - Could be harder to fill depending on the filler arrangement - It's physically closer to the driver so if the tank was ruptured then you're more likely to get burned I'm thinking that the tradeoff between it being in a stronger location vs. it being closer to the driver would be the main issue here. Anyone else have any ideas on the topic?

You could do that but it would be max machining and time required to make it work. The flexible cables are cheap and don't require too much fucking around. Maybe for mk2? Anyway, looks fucking sweet. Needs speed holes though!

A sandblasted surface works very well too.

Those tyres had better not squeal like mofos when doing skids! Because lets be honest, they're going to be useless for anything but sustained loss of traction. Looking forward to seeing them mounted up.

This sounds like way more effort than I've ever gone to to suss out a brake imbalance issue. The way I normally do it (it's worked about 5 times so far) is just drive around the block near the testing station with the handbrake partially on and cook the shit out of it. Try and do it when the recheck line is nice and short so they dont cool down too much. Works a like a charm. Fuck testing stations for this exact reason. Brake balance machines are known to be highly inaccurate and just piss everyone off. Fred failed a brake imbalance test when he had a LOCKED diff ffs. Save youself the hassle (and a few dollars) and go to a local garage next time. The place Ned goes to down the road is really 'good'

The powdercoater I use at work had a set of steel wheels in at his place the othr day and I asked what he charged. I'm not 100% sure I'm remembering correctly but I think it was $40 a wheel. They can do pretty much any colour you want. The guys a bit weird to deal with but once you get chatting he's all good. He does quite a lot of automotive stuff so he should be able to sort you out. The Powedercoating Factory 7 Riverbank Road New Lynn 09-827-2535

If you have a compressor you can borrow a spray gun (assuming you don't already have one) and paint them properly. A little compressor is fine for brackets and stuff. All of the bumper mounts and stuff like that on my Silvia were sandblasted to bare metal and then etch primed with a PPG product (can't remember the code right now) and then a hit with a 2 pot gloss black. 3 years later they still look as good as the day I painted them. IMO this is the 'best' way to deal with things like this. Rattle cans are just much less durable. You can buy small tins of decent quality paints so it doesn't have to cost a squillion dollars. There's always a tradeoff between how much dicking around is required and how long the finish will last though. If the parts will have stones and stuff hitting them then this wont be the best way to go. If you have suspension components and whatnot then I'd reccomend spraying thinned down POR15 or powder coating. I say spraying the POR15 cos it's not really much more work than brushing it on and it's actually quite a pleasure to use when it's thinned down properly. It will give you a gloss finish.

I'll be there as usual too. Might even give the AE86 a wash beforehand considering its daylight savings now and everyone will see how dusty it is from sitting in my shed all the time. Burger boes AND hawkes boes all in one week! What more could one ask for?!

QFT Grab a lift down with someone from up here if you don't have a suitable means of transportation. You won't regret it.

What you need is a DPDT (dual pole dual throw) switch. The switch you have linked to is a SPDT (single pole dual throw), the DPDT switch has two sets of contacts on the inside - hence the 'dual pole' part. You need this so you can reverse the polarity to the motor. Here's a link that shows you how to wire it. http://www.instructables.com/id/HOW-TO%3A-Wire-a-DPDT-rocker-switch-for-reversing-po/ Just beware that you will no longer have the automatic shutoff like you have with the original switch unit so if you hold the switch down once the window has moved all the way up or down then you will either blow a fuse or melt the switch.

+1 for afternoon meet at place that sells food and alcohol. I'm being 100% unproductive here at home anyway.

I wish I had access to a CNC machine so I could make awesome shit like this. I shall have to make do with an angle grinder and a straight edge. What kind of motors are you fullas using? Are they a dump shop bizzo?

What about the LSD/locked diff?

Haha not at all man. I'm not spewing - it's just one of those things. This is just a good excuse to make it go FASTER!!! On a more constructive note I reckon that getting an LSD into it will give you some of the best gains. That coupled with some good tyres (maybe try and borrow some semi slicks or something) and you'll be able to give it heaps off the line. A good 60ft time is pretty much your only chance of a semi-decent 1/4 mile time in that car. Have you been to the drags before? If you haven't then go out and practice your launches before you go. At the strip you have significantly more traction than on the road so it's not the same but knowing how to get your car off the line as fast as possible before you go will help you a lot. Other than that Spence pretty much covered everything that I can think of. How about building a front air dam out of cardboard to try and bring the Cd down? I have no idea how much effect this would have. Maybe an undertray to help reduce aero drag under the car too. Edit: Shit this thread moved quickly just then!

Carbs and a Link to run ignition

The one I have is a Bordo drill. Think it's 8mm. I saw a sweet video somewhere on youtube a while ago that shows you how to grind your own from normal bits. Doubt I can find it now though.

Haha I caught the speed holes bug from UJ, and thanks! I'll come and finish your car just as soon as I've got my other one running (the one in my sig). That's been 6 years so far so another 6 and it may actually be a car again

Cheers for the comments! I worked on this every day for 5 weeks straight so I have a lot of material to post up. As for anyone thinking about buying a racecar - DO IT. Holy shit it's fun. And not having to worry about driving it to work on Monday means you can break it and still enjoy the rest of your weekend As for what happened to the motor; I still need to take some photos. John (CXGPWR) and Ned gave me a hand to pull the motor out and we pulled it down on Tues night. I was worried that I was going to have pistons smeared all up the bores due to overheating but it looks like (to my untrained eye) it's oil starvation as the big end on cyl 4 is completely stuffed. The pistons should be reuseable and they're they only fancy bit in the bottom end so it's not the end of the world. Should have some photos up tomorrow - the damage is pretty impressive haha.