barf

a wideband oxygen sensor is very useful (innovate lc-1 is USD$200) if you're all curly-locks about ecu price get a Megasquirt (ms2/extra) it has programmable outputs you can use for things like boost control, water/nitrogen oxide control, etc you can run it either as an ON/OFF (pump type) system triggered by a manifold pressure level, or use injector(s) and another VE table to inject an amount of water as a function of RPM and MAP. found some links about water injection with megasquirt here: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mturbo.htm#water http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=36688

it's from 1996 - it has an OBD-I trouble code for "engine overboost condition" seriously?? i check my plugs after every session at the track, matched with datalogs it's a good engine 'barometer' [*:1rjtzids]180psi compression [*:1rjtzids]3 inch exhaust (2" to 3" conical flange attached to turbo) [*:1rjtzids]K&N air filter [*:1rjtzids]standard turbo, tune and manifolds fuel; i tried NGK copper plugs and the problem was even more apparent.

yes it's smooth running at all times except for when i do a throttle stab, ie; 3rd gear cruise at 2500rpm to full load, no hesitations except for at a high level of power. this is a factory mitsi 1.0 bar system i havn't modified anything. i don't think it's the cut-out because i'd see an OBD trouble code presumably for that, and plugs go black when it happens but the overboost is a fuel cut on this AFAIK.

thanks for the replies everyone, very helpful ! i've got the service manual to refer to for vacuum diagrams and the hoses are all correct, wastegate actuator can be seen moving and it operates at 1.0 bar (Boost). there is no distributor it is wasted spark. plugs are new, NGK iridium IX's. no fault codes on OBD-II diagnostic equipment. also have replaced the fuel pump and while i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, it empties a tank in minutes so pretty confident i've eliminated fuel issues, short of building a flow-test bench for my injectors. it's a new turbo too, and the manifold pressure gauge i have does sort of float up to almost 17psi before it settles down at 14-15, with a quick stab on the throttle. if i chase the throttle the problem is much harder to reproduce. it's something small and obvious i bet :-\ first thing i looked for was boost leaks, and i did find and fix some so i may revisit that issue.

hey i'm after some opinions and thoughts on my lancer which misfires (ie; non/weak ignition) under full load only using stock ignition components and pretty sure it's all up to snuff, have tried replacing transistor unit, plugs, leads and coils. no boost/vacuum leaks that i can find. higher power coils are the next thing i'm trying, plugs blacken quickly when the misfire occurs but otherwise stay clean. its a pretty fresh (~1000km) engine and compression is 181-182 psi all round, its a 7-bolt flywheel '96 narrowblock 4G93 the factory wastegate is 1.0 bar. what other gremlins haunt a turbo car?

are there any other sensor calibration methods in Link's software? NTC is negative temperature coefficient, if the coefficient of the thermistor is known then you can hopefully just type resistances-vs-temperatures in

to check them remove the leads of each end and test it with an ohm-meter. should be in the range of 0.7 - 1.5 Ω

Drained it by removing the drain plug/bolt Yes, it's similar in shape to a typical oil filter and thanks it's running good and shifting smoothly now

thanks for the replies! it was drained and transmission is a W4A51 (4WD transmission on CM5A) if you could confirm the amount of fluid that would be choice. I can't find the service manual for this transmission.

at the risk of sounding naive i'd like to ask what the deal is with properly replacing fluid in auto transmissions and torque converters. i've rebuilt my engine and am dying to turn the key but want to be sure i'm not going to damage anything carelessly the mitsubishi parts guy tried scaring us into paying for a professional fluid replacement service when we picked up the filter, what is that exactly and does the transmission pump fluid into the torque converter or what?

let me get this right: the tacho has two connections (from each end of the loop), and in and out so-to-speak that go between coil +ve and switched+12v? if so - this circuit should do the trick but, no guarantees, i'm just some guy on the Internet. it sounds like the tachometer is a current sensing circuit similar to some old Smith's gauges. this is a modification of the Megasquirt-style high-level tacho output circuit http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Hardware.htm#tachoout for the dummy load, use at least a 5W wire-wound resistor (NOT carbon-film type!), start with a higher value and work your way down if there is nothing on the tacho (330,200,100,75,50,35,20 ohms). observe how much heat the load generates (not very scientific I know) you shouldn't have excessive heat.

primary winding on a healthy coil should measure 0.5 - 1.5Ω.. maybe up to 2.0Ω hopefully it's not your ignition module. USD$75+pp for one of these, strong kiwi dollar atm too (NZD$99)

and what sort of tacho-output does your ECU have? distributor-style ignitino system?

whats a 6 dial tacho? does it trigger from coil -ve? please explain? many if not most ECUs have a (separate) tacho output signal

just to throw in a fresh idea, jaycar sell voltage switch kitsets. knowing that theres +13v when the alternator operates, you could control a relay when battery voltage is greater than say 12.9v http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5377&CATID=25&form=CAT&SUBCATID=347 EDIT: possibly not an ideal solution, high electrical loads could swith the pump off...

choice info - cheers guys it has IRS time to checkout what the old turbo leone in the paddock has in it's arse

some doofus welded up (ie; destroyed) this differential and now I need to find a replacement, does anyone know what other vehicles use the same differential as the S12 (CA18ET twin-spark) silvia? i hear that Subaru Leone's have an identical diff head -- true/false? thank in advance for any info you can share.

cheers for the warning here nigelwade. it's such a shame to see the Megasquirt name sullied by poor workmanship altho, Link's or any other ECU can have noise in signals, if not installed properly. there's professionally constructed "plug and play" megasquirts from DIYautotune, if soldering isn't your forté. tuning is primary concern with any type of ECU, and TunerStudio made tuning easy for me. at the end of the day, the MS tuning software is on par with MoTeC and Link's, you can interpolate between values on the tables, import/export and there are keyboard shortcuts. as one example, it took me two hours of dyno time to tune cruise and WOT, fuel and spark for MBT but, one hour was for the dyno setup and pull-down. the only authorised Megasquirt dealers I know of are glensgarage and DIYAutoTune.com there are some others now though - I reccomend DIYautotune to anyone considering Megasquirt. from what I understand B&G went to some effort to evaluate and QA these dealers. PS. I construct my megasquirts with a $30 jaycar soldering iron, with zero failures to date. just be careful not to overheat components and the board.

checking plugs provides a good indication of combustion, in lieu of expensive sensors :^)

the MS2 kitset is USD$247 now! you should not significantly increase the manifold pressure from factory, when using the factory ECU: it risks detonation. as a rule of thumb, more boost = less ignition advance. too much advance for cylinder conditions = engine knocking or worse. a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with the standard ECU will probably just upset the tune. you can measure your AFR with a wideband oxygen sensor, an Innovate LC1 costs about USD$200 and is essential equipment for tuning.

is the coil different to the original type? if it's a different coil, another possibility is that the dwell time (traditionally set by the 'points gap' in a kettering-style ignition system) could be too short, causing coil to charge enough for sufficient spark at low loads but at high rpm/loads there may not be enough spark for proper combustion.

and if you're in christchurch you're welcome to borrow one of my stimulators. all sensors require calibration, check in TunerStudio Tools -> Sensor Calibration for MAP sensor calibration. for TPS there is a wizard, for thermistors (temperature) they are usually set by three known points of resistance-versus-temperature ("Calibrate Thermistor Tables" in TunerStudio) or; if you know the coefficient of the thermistor there is a more precise method. another check, is to see if a refererence voltage is output from the sensor pins on the DB37, you should see 5.0v on the IAT and CLT input pins, on an unloaded circuit.

I've done a few MS2s and there will be other success stories lurking around. As kpr said you'll need a 2nd VR signal conditioning circuit if using MS2, with the NipponDenso distributor VR sensors (Ne, G1, G2 wires). If you're up to it, you can DIY or splash out and buy a 2nd VR kitset (easiest). NipponDenso input signal documentation: http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Ext ... utors.html the 2nd VR conditioning circuit looks like this so, unless you can build that or the LM1815 based circuit, get a 2nd VR kitset, or the DIYPNP as that has 2nd VR signal conditioning circuit built in. actually, the DIYPNP might be the best option. it has the same 42 pin connector as the OEM ECU. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diyp ... p-383.html

holy batman!!! to use these, you would first supply them power and grounds, then take the logic output signals, from top of R26, R27 and R29, etc, to the logic input pin A (assuming MS2/Extra). the documentation you need is here: http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Ext ... m#copsetup

it is certainly possible to tune ITBs based off of MAP and TPS. a hybrid combination of alpha-n and speed density is required. for idle and fast idle speed-density works but as the relationship between MAP and VE becomes subtle above a MAP 90% of barometric pressure, alpha-n is used in these areas. megasquirt (MS2/Extra in particular) permits you to use any combination of alpha-n and speed-density. one table is your primary algorithm and a second table is a multiplier using another algorithm. EDIT: here is a great resource on 'blended' tuning for ITBs http://www.77e21.info/mstuning_blendedansd.htm