H05TYL

Since when does it being law mean it has to make any kind of sense? I thought an authority card enabled you to drive the car wherever/whenever you liked, not just too and from events? ie: you could use your racecar as your daily if you were suitably masochistic?

So far as I recall it's to do with not being able to lean forward to see at tricky intersections and when checking your blind spot. However the cops who gave me a $150 ticket for failing to wear a seatbelt when I was using my harness rather than the factory fitted one said it was fine to use both, but you have to use the factory one. Bit bizarre really.

That's what I said!

Dmax will be glass. I'd start by removing the C33 fender (and front bumper + lights, etc) and laying the C35 one in place so the arch is centered over the wheel. This will let you see how much (if any) you need to cut from the front to get the head lights in place, as well as giving an idea how far from matching up the guards and doors are. The biggest issue I can see from looking at the two pics below is the shape of the guards and the crease in them is completely different, it might be that the easiest thing to do is to mount the headlights then get a pair of C33 fibreglass guards and modify them to fit around the headlights, then do the same with a C33 fibreglass bonnet (which will be much trickier to get right).

But you do need to leave the outer CV bolted through the hub (as R100 said) - holds it together see.

The result when idling would be the same for an injected turbo engine. On the road, the amount of time you can have the throttle fully open for is inversely proportionate to the amount of power (heat) the engine generates. I data logged throttle position (and couple of other things) on a very spirited drive over a road I know like the back of my hand, the road in question is mostly 3rd gear stuff with a few 2nd gear corners, with only 170kW and 4wd I was shocked at how little time was spent at 100% throttle - for a 2wd car with similar power you could pretty much halve that time too. With the exception of burnouts oil temp is unlikely to ever be a problem on the street. On the track however, things are quite different.

Great, cheers dude.

Just out of interest, roughly how much should expect to pay in an "off the street, non mates-rates" kinda deal, just to drill out the new PCD on a pair of hubs? and 4 discs?

'89 mitsi galant vr4, calipers will be stock vr4 and discs will be from a 4wd diamante - only difference in the discs is they have 5 holes for wheel studs not 4.

I'm converting my car from 4-stud to 5-stud, using all factory parts (front and rear hubs from a later model pressed into the original knuckles + discs from same), nothing has been cut/welded/drilled or otherwise and the new wheels don't rub on anything. Will I need a cert for this? (I plan to get one after I've done a bunch more stuff, but it'd be sweet if I could get the car legal in the meantime).

Interestingly the tire manufacturers allow more stretch on lower profile tires, for example Toyo recommend a max rim width of 8.5" for a 235/50/17 but 9.5" for a 235/40/17 I suspect this has something to do with lower profile tires having stiffer sidewalls which are better able to handle the extra stress.

ditto, LVVTA list is gay. The list is loosely based on what the tire manufacturers say, if the tire maker says it's okay to use a narrower tire on a 6.5" rim then it's fine. eg: Toyo specifies max rim width for a 225/40 is 9" (whereas that sheet says 235 is min for 9") These specs are easy to find online.

It's well documented that the 4g63's have ginormous ports and can flow stupidly large amounts of air. That calulation only shows the cfm based on the port size, valve sizes also influence things as well... The early 4G63's huge ports are designed to work with the Dual runner (cyclone) manifolds, if your not going to use the stock manifold you'd be much better off with a later small port head (evo 1-3, possibly later RVR's, etc)

Those headrests deffo do come off. Where are you going to find a pair of fishnet headrests for sale without the rest of the seats though?

Check the cert thread. If it needs hand tools to be adjusted, it's legal. Varex's are illegal because they can be adjusted from inside the cabin, ie: drive around making heaps of noise, get pulled over and close it right down then say "no way officer, it's quiet as, see. It must've been some other car making all that noise." Your not exactly going to be able to jump out and fiddle with your supertrapp without the cop noticing! You could just as easily have a flange infront of the muffler and swap it for wof's - even standard cars have a flange or two somewhere along the line.

Yokohama http://www.yokohamatire.com/customer_service/customizing_width.aspx Toyo http://www.toyo.co.nz/tyre_detail.php?T_name=Proxes%20T1R Interestingly the lower profile tires allow wider rim's, a 225/40/14 is okay for a 9" rim, but a 225/50/15 has a maximum 8" rim width. I suspect this is due to sidewall construction

go to pick-a-part get an n/a 4G63 for peanuts --> job done

You can go as low (or even negative) offset as you like, you'll just need more guard mods to cover them. Keep in mind that as the offset decreases the scrub radius (amount the wheel moves forwards or backwards when you turn) increases, making your steering heavier. Also, specifically in a fwd it will increase torque steer. The reason fwd's run huge positive offset from factory is so the steering axis (line from top of the strut to lower ball joint, about which the steering pivots) hits the ground outside of the centre of the tires contact patch. About this point complicated physics (which I don't understand) take over...

If you've checked the cable bracket is still bolted in place and the cables aren't loose and the shifter movement is excessive (ie: more than normal) it'll be because the 36mm nuts on the end of the two gear shafts are loose - as I said on m-sport.

yes, although if you paint it black and get rid of the lines neatly most places probably won't notice.

back pressure is bullsh1t, fullstop, the end. reflected pressure waves are worth looking into though.

also at anyone who thinks they have lag with a standard turbo. Try a T51R on a bridgeported 13bee....

Actually the intercooler acts as a heat sink, with no external air flow (car not moving) it will absorb heat from the air flowing through it until it's temperature rises to the same temp as the air flowing through it.

Soldering wires together under a dashboard an be hazardous to your health. I would just go and spend a couple of dollars at Repco on some plastic wire taps. nasty horrible things, wouldn't touch em with a barge pole! if you really want to do it properly get a crimping tool and connectors a chocolate block connector will work too.

no worries, One of the pick-a-parts in auck's had a couple of GTO's (no idea which one, sorry) - I got a mate to rob the axles out of one for me.