Bling

I thought you could remove the rear seats and belts in this situation?

I find my BOC MIG sweet, got it before they did those all in one units though, they look flash as fuck. I bet you'll be happy with that!

Unless they are talking about that specific welder not being any good, I'd say they are wrong. 150A will smoke most home stuff no worries. The problem with panel steel is often cheaper welds can be a bit unstable at their lowest settings. Might just take some fart around to get the settings right. What sort of settings does it have? I have welded (just to try it) 0.5mm sheet with my 180A welder no worries. Most of the time the sheet I have welded has been closer to 1mm, which gives more leeway on not quite having the settings bang on. I've been nowhere near the top end of my welder, and have welded reinforcing rod into a frame, which was 16mm or so diameter. In all fairness, I just turned the settings all up quite high, and hoped for the best. The top rating is only part of the equation though, minimum amps is more important for panel stuff. Really need more deets on all three welders mentioned. If you plan to weld 10mm sheet to things, then you're talking higher amps, but for most garage stuff, you won't get near the max setting IMO.

I roll M12 at home, have circ saw, drill, polisher, torch, multi-tool, hackzall, inspection camera and impact gun (brushed sadly). Misplaced the impact gun during moving, so hoping to find it when I unpack storage unit, never even used the damn thing Rate the gear for sure though. I usually wait till Milwaukee are running redemption specials. Got the inspection camera free when I purchased the polisher. Got the hackzall free when I got the drill etc. Good value that way. Roll M18 at work, for serious jobs that would be the way to go. M12 impact gun is good for the small stuff. Saw a builder using a M18 brushless impact gun on a site and it looked impressive as fuck.

Two people like stock height therefore times have changed? Interesting. Sack it and brap it, Uterus knows what's up.

My guess is they picked out all the good (working) stuff already.

Could be worth checking out the indicator stalk condition too, assuming headlights on the same stalk as indicators. Only place I can think of that indicators and headlights come remotely close wiring wise. Could be well off though, I can't suss my own electrical issues

Goes hard for what it is, will ring true. I miss my blacktop and that was in a heavier FWD platform. Stock power will put a smile on your dial easily.

Same again next month?

Was planning on going, but it clashes with Chopper Next time, was keen on some greasy food and sharnsTBH.

Air gap provides the "insulation" I think, I wouldn't bother with it TBH. Polystyrene could be worth a look, but I probably still wouldn't bother for a playhouse.

Good plan.

Built to last! Dressed timber looks so much nicer than RS, which is what I tend to end up with due to budget.

Seems like a list of maintenance issues rather than things related to the modifications? Any comments in regards to the mods or did that all go through no probs? 300 horse seems damn good for that motor!!

Hi Pete, Long time! Hectic week this week, but i'll get in touch next week and pick your brains / show you what I have. Cheers!

Nah not that one, but looks pretty similar. Was using this till it got sold, big unit, but spent half my time making adjustments to try and get square cuts.

Auction finished already haha. Will edit a link here when not on phone.

I only plan to use thin stock but it looks about 150mm, even 100mm should do. I'm just wanting to get a few projects finished off. So needed a table saw too. Looks pretty junk, but its old, so it can't be worse than China specials. Time will tell I guess. I know what you're saying though. I just don't want to fork out big money on something I'll likely be flicking off later.

A heavy duty Tanner planer / table saw machine popped up on the tard, so I'm grabbing that and will follow the advice in that thread. Will report back the results in a few weeks hopefully.

2.2m, and the part lengths vary from probably 0.6m to 1.4m. Ah so just looking at the grain of the rings? Alternate them? /such a noob. Had use of a table saw until I got told it was being taken away today, so had to rush through all of the timber before it left.

How does one work out the grain? Thanks for the offer Joe, but keen to do it locally as time constraints mean if I don't finish it soonish it will sit... Got my eye on a buzzer, so could put a few together and buzz them as suggested.

You did what now?

Currently making a dining table top out of ~ 20 lengths of roughly 45x45 (very roughly) timber. Some of the lengths are cut in two to reduce bowing (30 lengths total approx. Wanting to get the bow taken out of the timber and happy for the lengths to end up 40mm or so if needed. Does anyone know of a GC with a thicknesser that would run my timber through for not much coin? Low budget project, DIY spec etc. So just thought i'd ask. Everywhere i've asked hasn't been interested. Not sure what the wood is, but might be oak or something similar. Have already cut the stock down from bowed 100x50mm 2m lengths and looking to get it as square as I can before I start putting it all together. Will running it through a thicknesser even fix the bowing? Last resort is spending a day with the planer. Any help appreciated. "Pic for attention"

Myth would have been started by someone selling one. "Rear as fook, can't even cert these anymore, get in QUICK!1one!!!"

Fast and furious showed otherwise.