Bling

Shout him a rusted door and some sheetmetal to practice on. Cut some holes in it and cut some panels to be welded in. That way when he gets to the actual car, he has it dialed in. Same theory for everyone really, you don't start on the actual job. 2c

We use Konnect at work so getting bolts isn't an issue, thanks for the offer though @RUNAMUCK. I'll probably find a bunch I need first and throw them in with a work order. Failing that i'll just grab a Champion bolt pack while out and about, cheap enough.

Yeah pinch with the bolt sitting in a slot. Probably not much price difference but just wanted to make sure I was on right track and that the bolt wouldn't be something even stronger given location. Not worried about overkill on bits like that.

What type of bolts would you use on critical car parts? High tensile 8.8 suitable? Any particular coating to avoid / go for? One example is steering connection to rack, thread has seen much better days.

Yeah i'd say the 7 days you mention is if straight recoating. If you scuff it the 7 days doesn't matter.

Epoxy primer should be legit, mine has sat for months and still looks good as new. Pretty sure it seals really well and is hardy enough to protect surfaces till you're ready for top coats. Just might want to give it a light scuff up for the liner to key into. Unless it's being left outside in the weather anyway.

Grab new muffler from Autobend, zap it on and good to go.

Where is the testing to show that under the noise test, all of those cars exceed 90dB? Has someone tested them to show that as you imply, they are all louder than 90dB under test conditions? If they all exceed, then sweet loop hole, if they don't, then it's irrelephant really.

Yeah wheel guard area against engine bay initially. Has previously had a brake leak by the looks so stripping everything out that is loose / peeling off and plan to epoxy the bare metal and deaden over the top of the whole lot.

Brush on sound deadener over the top of just epoxy primer, should be legit going by the suitable substrate list. Yeah / nah? cheers

Didn't do much over winter as I can't finish rust work till it's warm enough to park it outside all day to dry. So just a quick update, will try get the next one out a bit quicker. Have been pulling the front end apart to send parts away to be worked on. So figured i'd replace all consumables while I was in there. Out came the steering rack, which had about 5mm of grime on it, along with crossmember. Whipped both those out and left the engine in the bay supported on blocks. Excuse the blur. Rack and cross-member are now clean as a whistle. Replaced the tie rod ends and boots on the rack. Pulled the suspension out, chopped it and sent it off to Barry @ MRP to work his magic. Brakes also came off for a "service". Wasn't till I took the wheels off I realised this car came with the big brake option, 200mm of stopping power. Winding down the windows would likely slow the car faster. The old: New 276mm vs old 200mm, with Wilwood calipers to match (too lazy to find that photo): Bits from RockAuto, three orders so far, filling my cart as I work through the car. Anything consumable is being replaced to save it failing later on. To a point anyway, not made of money. So that's it for now, aiming to have it on the road by the end of summer, pending rust work progress. All of the above bits will hopefully provide some motivation to keep working on it in the meantime. Choice.

Maybe whip out the injectors and get them cleaned while you're on holiday? @RUNAMUCK got some done recently so might know a good place. Might not be injectors, but if they've sat for ages a clean won't hurt.

Which factory car are we talking about that's exhaust is beyond the noise limits?

Probably legit, and resto supplies is legit too. I'd struggle to not head to Ali and spend $5 though

Ball joint grease, does it matter what you use? Internet says complex lithium, local mechanic uses general grease. I have general grease, but want to be sure they'll last. What say you OS? Much easier for me to just use what I have as I only have one grease gun. The grease I have is probably budget stuff too. So i'd potentially buy new grease anyway, but keen to know which type.

Well the visor line will be from inside I imagine as that is the only point from which vision would be obstructed. I've just checked the VIRM to get some context as I couldn't work it out from the quote. Rules for overlays are different for front windscreen and all other windows. The way I read it, you can have overlay to the line of OE visors. You can't have any print or otherwise below 100mm. Which is because you can't have anything solid further from the edge of the windscreens than 100mm. Visors would need to be huge to allow overlay to be further than 100mm down the screen. Just how I read it. With a spray can, you're not going to have any print or anything else solid, so you work to the OE visor line.

Not sure exactly what your question is. Anything further than 100mm in from the edge of the screen is a fail. You can have whatever you want (opacity wise) so long as its not further than 100mm from edge or lower than the OE visors I guess? People have windscreen banners all the time, both solid and just words. A spray application should be fine too, so long as it meets all the requirements.

Hmmm yeah pretty sure i'll have nowhere to actually put a locating ring. Will see what certifier says in a few weeks.

Is there any possible reason other than scene? Have seen blue done on a show car before, which from memory was all road legal. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2617510/1994-toyota-corolla/photo-gallery/ Quick question time. Are there requirements to have locating rings for mags for cert? I may end up with nothing left to fit a locating ring to when fitting mag wheels. Wheels in question have tapered wheel nuts. Have browsed the wheels / tyres PDF, but still not sure. Figured it might be an easy one you'd come across quite often. Aiming to not use any spacers.

99.99% chance they are the same as the $85 ones, same factory even. Add more steel to the dolly if you're concerned with their strength. Probably can't even get the castors for $85.

No that's ok, I believe you lol.

Also the plain ones you linked on trademe are sub $100 all over trademe... Perhaps Joker's account on here has been hacked. Trying to make people buy over priced stuff. Nothing else is making sense right now. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2357607260.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2356422283.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/other/listing-2358949274.htm All sub $100, they are all the same stuff so anything more than the above pricing is clearly a rip off.

When you can get them at repco on special for ok coin, not sure why you'd fart around for hours trying to find the best scam site to buy things from.

The stuff they sell is likely galvanised stuff? Don't bother with that. You want proper stuff they use for panels, can weld it without messing around and you won't die from the galv fumes. As for thickness, depends what you are patching, most of mine is sub 1mm, but some is slightly thicker.

Is that replaced one bent? Could be optical illusion at play again.