Bling

I only use mine in tight spots. Lennox cut off wheel on grinder a lot of the time with flap disc mixed in.

Looks like SprayStore sells 3M ones, i'll give them ago when they start shipping again and report back.

I have a black and decker one, does the trick. Toolshed belts are pretty shit, mine tend to break before running out of grit. Will invest in better belts next time. The Toolshed ones are dirt cheap though, so can't complain too much. Will check that front wheel on mine though in case that is causing issues. Air would be better, but fuck that racket lol.

I'd stick with whatever colour is already in there. Apart from that any decent branded stuff should be good. Can get stuff to put into the coolant system, that cleans it up, then you empty it out with the old coolant. Not sure if that's a good thing to do or if I just got upsold when I had my radiator fixed lol. Would depend on cooling system condition too.

Those ones are 14x6.5"

Yeah that's a good idea, will look into that once it's all back together. As i'm not sure of final position so i'll likely need to tweak them. It only holds a small front factory lip in place, so no weight to support really.

Yeah no tyres and also need to finish polishing them. Will hopefully remedy that soon enough though. Then after lock down I can order tyres. Yeah it's a pretty cool shape for sure, certainly not one you see around.

Small lock down update. Things are still happening, have just had a few issues that have taken a while to get resolved. Suspension is all in, brakes are done. Hard to get an idea of actual front height as I didn't take pic with front guard on. But it's currently sitting at it's highest setting up front and about the middle height in the rear. I aim to go as low as I can, but guard clearance and bumpsteer will likely determine final height. Recently replaced old exhaust system. Not running a resonator for now, will see how it sounds as I can easily add one later if needed. Got the impression the muffler is a good one and should cover both jobs. Had a section bent up, with some changes to try and clear everything. Some of the bends ended up being poorly done so I just cut the whole lot up and rebuilt it. It was just too hard to bend it as required to go over the diff at an angle, then bend back to get to muffler location. So I spent a fair few hours tweaking the bends to get it right. Currently prepping more areas for epoxy, and discovering more things to fix, so fixing those as I go. Aiming to get the front end finished, then i'll move to the rear and finish that off. I don't have the space to work on it all at once. Replacing a few bits and bobs as I go too as many parts are rusted beyond use. Like the bracket shown below that took a hit and is too rusty to bother straightening. Have done cambelt, waterpump, thermostat, radiator hoses, all other belts, plugs, air filter, all of which was sourced from RockAuto. Small bypass pipe was sourced from Toyota (thanks Mark) and I used the orings that came with waterpump. Radiator was flushed and repaired a while back, and is likely to be replaced at some point, it's sound, just not able to be rodded out as it will probably do damage. Not much else to post really, slowly getting there, hoping to have everything painted and back together in a few weeks. But given how long it's taken so far, even with being locked down that isn't that likely. Some proof of progress: Old exhaust + new exhaust bits Exhaust finished up: Exhaust bracket I made as not many factory hangers could be used: All new belts installed along with waterpump etc Some brackets I dunked in MetalReady for a while, along with a spring that was solid rust Replacement bracket I knocked up as old one was beyond repair As car currently sits, will play with heights when I have final wheels installed. Discussion Fred.

NSFW spoiler that shit man, talk about exhaust porn.

Online is near impossible. Spend the 10 minutes to put the bumper back on and live happily ever after.

Yeah I was reading up about the spacers, the hubcentric bit etc on the document. I need to go through every possible solution to every problem I come across. To at least try and come up with the best solution. Currently that is just buying tyres and hoping they fit. After that it's trying to locate another pair of wheels with the same offset as rear, etc etc. It's a mind fuck really. Trying to balance the wheel offset for max low, with very limited offset options. Which may be pulled up on excessive bumpsteer in the end anyway lol. Thanks for the help.

Center of wheel clears the factory hub, so it's located with the tapered wheel nuts. Spacer is absolute last resort, would sooner buy different offset wheels to be honest. Will likely just need to buy tyres and see how clearance goes. My memory sucks, it does have a ring, but it doesn't contact the mag wheel, so in my head I worked on the theory of it not having one. Pic of hub

Is it possible to fit a wheel spacer, say 5mm, to a car that doesn't have a locating ring on the hub? Can the spacer just be fixed to the wheel, with a flange that matches that of the wheel center hole, for centering purposes? Or can a spacer just not be used in this application. Talking about front axle, where tyre to strut clearance is tight, but not contacting. Just not sure how much clearance is acceptable. 1,2,5mm? TIA

Yeah wasn't sure which would be harsher.

Could you polish it off with an aggressive compound?

Looks like a blast! Much jelly.

Word of warning for those travelling the Akaroa way home. Some weird as blue fog the whole way to CHCH.

So that means it will go through a WOF no worries? I imagined cert is all good, but i'd have thought fail a WOF because chop chop? Glad to see things coming together again, new intake pipe looks sweet. Pretty handy having the tools and skills to weld everything, no matter the material / fabrication required.

Brain fart then haha, yeah I can only remember one to two cars per person. Last one I saw on Insta was Eterna Forgot about Sigma and have Mirage and Eterna locked in to memory.

Two extremes of ground clearance. Sigma is cooler, plus I'm keen to see it in the flesh, so yeah...

Good question, i'll be cruising a good 100mm buffer above that, just in case.

Yeah mine is a different setup, calipers with holes that bolt into plates. Quite different to narrowing threads. Was just an example that some things are worth checking with certy certy man.

Have you talked to a certifier about any of your stuff? Not being a dick, but that is the sort of question they would appreciate being asked, as there isn't a one size fits all answer to many questions. For example, my certifier has mentioned extra threads in areas you can't even get a single one with your brake setup. Another certifier has said it's not required. So probably a good idea to get a certifier onboard, if you want to save redoing stuff later. I thought I had seen something about it on their forum, but can't see it now.

Two pack is king, no doubt. However one pack is still better than nothing. I've used zinc it on all sorts of shit where I CBF dealing with 2 pack. Small brackets / a gate frame. Seems to stand up fine, even when outside in the sun all year. I have a bunch of bare metal areas on car i'm collecting up to do with epoxy primer. If you already have a tin of it, go nuts I say. If you don't, then epoxy probably not that much different price wise. Unless the underseal is falling off mine, i'm not touching it. I'll patch areas that are bare and hope the factory stuff lasts another 35 years.

@- i5oogt - Is it Port Hills Rd NPD? Maybe Dyers Rd just isn't on their site yet.