Bling

And that's fine, just pointing out it's a cheap welder and you're operating it at near it's claimed capacity. I wouldn't use gasless to start with, but 99% of my welding is on sub 4mm. 4mm is probably in perfect conditions.

I'm waiting for the government buy back scheme. Given how many cars kill people each year I'm surprised it hasn't happened yet.

Chamberlains in CHCH can probably make them, worth a call anyway.

How the likes of "Rightcar" and ANCAP are allowed to exist in their current states I don't know. The whole rating system is garbage and isn't close to accurate when it comes to actual safety. Boils my piss. One example, there will be MANY. https://rightcar.govt.nz/detail?q=g52790 Zero stars. Has better occupant safety than this: I picked this van as I used to have one as a work vehicle. https://rightcar.govt.nz/detail?q=g52248 Which is 5 stars. Basically if you don't tick all their boxes, most of which do not relate to your survivability in a crash, we'll give you zero stars. Over time we'll add new boxes that old vehicles that aren't retested don't need to meet. So an old 5 star rating lasts forever and can be less safe than a zero star vehicle (which is safe) released today. What a joke.

Max is 4mm for that unit and it's dirt cheap, what miracles were you after?

Overkill, i'd do 5,000km / 12 months minimum. If the engine is in good nick, then 10,000km / 12 months. /beaten

That's criminal! My old work van was previous shape to what you have, was 2.4L manual and i'd get 400km or so to a tank. Loaded up with tools. I think they are just turds really. Made zero difference how I drove it, just a turd on the fuel. I'd even test with a tank driving like a nana and a tank driving like I stole it (still stupidly slow) and the fuel economy was the same. I used to have a 2L (3SGE) 4WD auto RAV4 and it would use 45L ish for 350km. So add some weight and the fuel economy is about the same. edit More modern 2.4L auto (CVT) Corolla in the fleet uses half the fuel and would be twice as fast as the RAV4, not a problem. With the price of fuel, if you do big mileage, could even be worth selling it to buy something better on fuel. Previous work van was a 2012ish Transit diesel, so much faster and would net 9km/L fully loaded. 80L tank meant 750km or so between fills, bliss.

What did you put in it? I've got one on the bench I have nothing to lose with.

I'd probably epoxy glue the edges then pull the post back in to position. Plate over the area with something and epoxy that too for extra strength. Don't want to waste a perfectly good battery!

Could be worse (and will be one day), could be the list of outright banned modifications.

I had temporary steps / pallets at my place as I think by rights, smooth side up decking doesn't meet "slip factor" for code. Could be wrong mind, but wasn't an issue I was willing to deal with. Pretty sure up here the driveway just needs to be formed.

^That. Could always make use of that space to the side? Seems a lot less work and hassle than installing a different booster. Even if you do that, master is still going to boil alive since there is no space to fit suitable shielding and still be clear when engine moves as Clint said. Hard to say though as there is limited context for space from the photo.

You'd want to be sure of the inside condition of the tanks. Saw one on youtube that did a fair bit of damage when it let go in someones garage. I don't leave my compressor full anymore

Pretty sure it's more about the driveshaft hitting the ground and digging in. Obviously don't want it knocking around under the floor either, but in case of the van it's main job is to stop the pole vault i'd say.

Doco says ETRTO for the information, has a bunch of purchasable standards like here by the looks. The free ones look pretty technical!

Same as before, but if you get a note from mum the tyre manufacturer should be all good?

New car is coming along nicely

Oh boy, nice!

I used to run one of those garbage 3in1 bathroom ceiling heater / extractors. Gave off good light, if not a little toasty, but could fit different bulbs. Ran pink garnet which seemed to last well. Water trap was bolted to the unit and I used to run 1-2 air hoses from compressor so a bit more allowance for the air the cool / condensate. Ran the hoses to make sure I was outside of my environment. Silica dust is no joke.

How much point is there actually having a brace like that? Does the whole car flex that much? Probably don't need to tag them in here, they frequent often enough [ling]you're modifying the structure of the vehicle so my guess is needs a cert[/ling]

Crikey. I mean it could be multiple things, but battery swap is 5 minutes job even if you're a Spanners Watson on the tools.

No issues, usually lots of alternative options available on there too.

https://drivetribe.com/p/standard-ryco-oil-filters-vs-ryco-QSyD19l9QyyJ2PzJEilr0g?iid=FjZ7LEqdQXydDmLVyplcIA I can understand 15,000km on a relatively new car. But I wouldn't put on some fancy filter in my old shitbox and run it for 15,000km. I tend to grab Denso or similar units for dollars when making Rockauto orders.

Have another battery you can try in it? I always go for battery first as it's always the first thing to fail for me. I have one on the bench currently that has dropped at least one cell.

Don't recall seeing this in here https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t790916354