flyingbrick

check out this link and the links linked to from this article seems like a pretty cheap fix. http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_1840/article.html

alright. Everyone in favor of these motors getting propellers and being fixed to a bike say EYE

dude ive said that like 3 times. We need to start a propeller petition

Id go straight onto ebay and grab an aluminum honda or similar radiator thats similar in size but thicker. There is a huge selection of these and they are cheap!!!. I got a mk4 supra one off ebay for my truck and it was very nicely made... And hooooge. Anything custom made or even made in nz is silly dollars. Wuldnt piss around with spraying water on it. Sounds like a pain in the ass... If you do g this route however look on autospeed.com.au and search for diy ic sprayer, or similar. Lots of info there on sprayers, pumps and cheap pump controllers.

god only knows.

The DBA (if i remember correctly) website is awesome for comparing and figuring out disk sizes and spacing from hub etc. You can search their disks by diameter, stud pattern, thickness ETC and then see which cars are the same or similar.. Or you can search by vehicle and see the sizes and offsets. This may help someone. There is a funny smell in my house.. fuck knows what it is. some kinda perfume... getting stronger.. cept nobodys home but me.. weird.

I was there last week servicing their two homo's. Josh (3ske on here i think) and i were clowning around on friday and he made some reference to oldschool. We had a yack and he mentioned that you had been there earlier. Small world! What were you doing there?

I still vote model airplane propellers.

KPR, were you in maungataroto (spelling!) last week?

Not at all expensive http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 326179.htm assuming thats the right thing.

Wow, LOVE it!

The rear glass is pretty easy to remove, Andy. Just take extreme care not to bend the trim as you remove it. Once its bent it never looks right again. Under the trim are just a bunch of clips that you remove by either squeezing the back to release or undoing a screw (easiest). Once the clips are off the glass should just peel out pretty easily- mine had a foam seal stuck to the glass... hopefully there is no glue on yours as that would make it harder. I see there are people on TM selling NEW front (and maybe rear?) factory bumpers. I definitely think you should replace with new rather than spraying the current ones black. Paint always chips off bumpers and looks poose.

I don't think Lingling would find my signature offensive? Also, not standing up for any person in particular, least of all Lingling. I'd have said it about anyone. SP450andLE has taught himself how to use the PM system, so cute.

hey, ling does not have to listen to shit you say just because YOU have said it. Its his choice what he does and how he does it. Why do you guys care so much about the outcome of his vehicles anyway? Ironic that you are sick of ranting and yet continue to do so. Nobody is making you rant or even read this. Lots of love, NAthan

Man, that would be a shitty thing to witness!

Totally missed that. Fuck thats expensive! I guess it was a little while ago that i went there but at the time it was the cheapest place by miles!

honestly. go get a quote from the muffler shop.

The muffler shop. the big yellow muffler shop. Down by the railway on killarney road. I had some resonators added once and it was surprisingly cheap. Was very happy.

yeah i vote lay shaft(s). I think thats the only way this is ever going to work.

Man, you are an animal! How long did it take you to strip all that paint off? Pics of you covered in dust + mess made?! edit: how did you remove the lead?

very cool. People make auto transmissions out to be much more complex than than they really are. When you break it down and look at how they work its all actually very simple. The biggest hurdle would be working out which solenoid does what- and which combination of clutch pack solenoid energizing will give which gear. I'm guessing a 5 speed will have one extra solenoid to control the selected gear than your more common 4 speed (which has just two usually) I'm rambling, sorry. Kinda passionate about these things.. dunno why.

putting the line pressure at 100% full time does not stop the clutch packs disengaging. The other solenoids divert this line pressure to engage or disengage your clutch packs. You are right, would be a bit rougher to drive- but easy to feed a manual throttle dependant signal to this solenoid if you want to make it more cushy... You may find that in order to stop clutch slip with those turbos you will need full line pressure as soon as you come on boost (but even at low throttle positions) Line pressure is entirely dependent on engine load usually- line pressure only reduces at partial throttle to make shifts more comfortable and line pressure is increased as throttle is applied to stop the clutch packs from slipping. Gears change at WOT with full and constant line pressure. They have to otherwise the clutch packs would smoke themselfs. That is unless the new 5 speed boxes operate in an entirely different way to the older toyota boxes as found on mk4 supras etc.. which is possible. Have you considered one of the older toyota 4spd boxes? they may have manual valve bodies available and more information around about their modification - i know there is DIY info on raising the line pressure via drilling restrictor holes and shimming accumulators to help them handle more power in drag racing situations etc etc. Hopefully not telling you how to suck eggs, just trying to be helpful in showing that there are ways without spending huge money on a controller.

I bet thats sooooo smooth and quiet.

Could just use it as a manually shifted auto? Find out which solenoid bleeds off line pressure and leave that one alone ( so its at max pressure all the time.. good) and then wire the inhibitor switch and OD button on the shifter to operate the solenoids directly. Different kettle of fish entirely i know- and only a 4speed auto box- but i did this to my nissan safari and it worked very well. It would not take a genius to then build a circuit to switch the solenoids through the correct sequence using just two buttons (paddle shifter or buttons on steering wheel). You'd just have to move the shifter manually to enter park and reverse. Just throwing ideas around.

Thanks for the help, : SNAP! I did read your post, saw the pic and thought you were confused. Looks like a bolt thats had the head machined and the thread turned down to fit into the spindle?