Frosty

Give these guys a try first, managed to get a tappet cover gasket from them after months of looking over seas with no joy, they had it on the shelve and a LOT cheaper than I had expected. Hawkswood Classics <matt@classiccarparts.co.nz>find them here on line www.classiccarparts.co.nz

Are the poly-vee pulleys pretty standard on nissans? Yes on most post 85 models, a couple of the older engines still in use at the time like the 1200 (A12?) and commercials hung on to the V belts for a while after that date. Or are they all sorts of different offsets and diameters? 1. Diameters? Yes to suit Crank pully size and top RPM of engine. You can get an alternator spinning to fast, you basicly burn them out. 2. Offsets? Not as many as you would think. Tend to get that sorted with the mounting and or spacers on the input shaft. A jump to the newer belts is a good idea more and more the only place you can get V belts is an engineering supply outfit. Just like tubes in tires they are becoming something of a specialty item for vintage, classic and specialised uses.

If you remove the dome it WILL reduce the thickness of the crown of the pistion making it more prone to overheating in the middle. The reduced skirt will only cause problems with a OEM pistion unless you are very carefull, even stock you see cracked skirts from time to time and they will need to be adjusted for weight once machined. I would also think under piston cooling is a great idea. It really sounds like a set of Forged pistons is what you need, mods to a OEM piston are only going to reduce thier life span further.

Yes that's normal, tape speed to set buy the rollers and the spindles have a basic clutch that just keeps a light load on the gears in the cassete

Bad contact points add resistance, that's why even the old bulbs where dim.

If it's clicks it's not the elastic band it's mechanical drag in the gears. One of the gears has likley got some grit in it or the drive rollers have stuck together. Get in there and have a gentle poke with with a small blade screw driver to see which one is causing the problem, once you know it may be simple as blowing it out with some air and re greasing the loaded points (shafts and gears). While you're in there use a cotton bud and some cleaning solution to clean the pinch rollers and pick up head. (isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol that the car painters use)

The printed curcit sheet will have dirty connection pads. At the point where the contact for the bulb holder sits against the circut sheet there is a section of the copper track that has no sealer on it. Use some very fine sandpaper or a steelo pad to clean that small bit of the track then put a smear of grease to stop it reoxidsing again, refit bulbs and test. This is very common and was something we saw a great deal when servicing the BMC's. Was happening on cars as new as 5 years old if in a damp inviroment. Good luck.

I've used these on 3 cars now and recommend them. Nice note and not to loud even with no resonator. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/exhaust/auction-927490656.htm

86280 AMPLIFIER ASSY, STEREO COMPONENT 86280-19015 1 $3,653.61 86120 RECEIVER ASSY, RADIO 1 1 86120-39015 AM/FM MULTIPLEX (4 SPEAKERS), W/CASSETTE STEREO 1 $3,345.58 This is an example of what toyodiy can provide and it's cost. CRINGE. These are for of all things the 4 channel stereo for the AE82 JDM Corolla GT 4 Door.

Is there a round output on the back? Like an old mic or speaker plug. 20mm or so with 10 ish pins? Sorry it's been a while and the memory isn't what it was, so many drugs and not enough time. I noticed the 70 series wiring diagram in the back ground, I know the 70 did have a 4 channel double din head unit but the 80's had them to, you may be working from the wrong bible. I can tell you now technics will not be able to help with a wiring diagram, they built these under licence for Toyota and not for the general market so the only place you will get one is from Toyota. If I was you I would go see them and ask if they can check the part number on it and see what model it's from, if it needs the pre amp and if possable a wiring diagram. They might be resistant to start with as the info will most likely be on micro fiche. One of the guys here on OldSchool is a parts guy at Toyota but I can't remember his handle. http://www.toyodiy.com/ may shed some light in this department to as you can do a part number search.

Shit, haven't seen one of those for many years. I can remember when these came out. proper "Suround Sound" stereos like this where top of the line. From memory there was a small pre amp that plugs into the back and has it's own set of wires from the loom as well and without it it's just a nice way to fill the hole. They where an option and a spendy one at that, I have a suspicion the loom was unique to the double din head unit. I could be wrong but it's the only thing I can think of other than the head unit it's self being faulty. There may be a work around to get the head unit to go without it if you could get a electronics tech to check it out.

If you've had the dissy out it could be as simple as the leads are 180 deg out or the rotor is damaged.

Holden 3.8 V6. Deceet power, not to bad on gas and cheep as chips to get and fix. Dont need a lot of room ether. Good runner still in a comode is under $1000.

I would add a big fuck of cap to the power supply for the amp at the least, smooth things out a bit in the voltage dept. A big amp and an old English charging system is asking for trouble, it's not a matter of yes or no but of how long will it take before it all goes up in smoke................ ................if it was my car I would be adding a seperate loom attached to a modern Japa Alternator and a second small battery for the sounds. Feedback may be a issue but some GC here will be able to help with that I'm sure. A second Alternator is not unheard of with big sound systems even in a new car.

If it's going fine the dissy and tps will be Big Port ones, Small Port ones wouldn't run. Not an easy thing to do an ECU swap without the loom but if you are willing to pull the loom apart and track the wires it can be done. If it's not broke don't fix it, the only real effects of using the Small Port engine with a Big Port ECU is it will use a bit more gas, throttle responce at top end will be a bit slower and you won't see the extra few horse's the later engine produces. PS. If it's running well on the Big Port ECU you will find the injectors, dissy, TPS, oxy sensor and most of the other sensors will be from the Blue Top, thats a lot more bits to find to do the full conversion to Small Port. Your best bet is going back to a Big Port engine or the head at least

Bench test for lifters is dodgy at best due to them needing some oil pressure to work. You ether find out on start up because they tick or you replace the lot while the heads of.

No light at all with an alternator is brushes or a bad connection, almost always but discharging the battery in two weeks would indercate the diode pack needs help or you left something on, ether way you won't know for sure untill you get a charged battary back in and check the voltage when the engine is running. Before you get deep into the $ pit check the connections, the bullet ones found everywhere in an Anglia but in this case the ones in the engine bay, they often rust inside and because they are hidden by a black plastic cover you never think they are the issue. Untill they are and you spend two days trying to get a park light going. The Ford alternators from the kent cross flow engines always gave problems even when new. If I was in your place I would put a late model japa one in and be done with all that english quality electrics stuff. This is coming from someone who has loved, owned, driven and fixed Classic English cars for the last 35 years.

Are you sure it even has an alternator? The Angia has a Generator with a seperate Regulator unless it's been converted. 13 - 14.5v is normal charging rate. Light flicker at idle is normal, the more revs the more amps so the light goes out. No light at all means on amps at all. First check is easy, just wind up the idle to 2000rpm and check voltage at the battery, it should be more than 13v, if it is then it's just the bulb. If not then. Worn out brushes or a dirty commutator in the generator. Regulator can also be out of adjustment. Bearing wear can also cause problems. Workshop manual will tell / show how to fix / adjust both. Or drop me a PM and I can copy from my manual.

SEAL IN A BOTTLE WILL NOT WORK WITH A FELT REAR MAIN SEAL, you can make it like new with a wash to remove any crap and reload with grease. they can fall apart when you wash them, they basicly rot if they sit , you can get replacement felt through most bearing outfits. Using a lip type seal may not fix the issue for long as the cranks have a habit of forming a groove where the seal touches the crank and what English car worth it's salt doesn't have an oil puddle under it?

The fuel system is so simple. Only one fuel line out of the tank with an in tank pump and filter foot going directly to the Direct Injection pump, one fuel pressure sensor (appears to be on the high pressure side of the pump) and two high pressure lines to the injectors (one on each side of v) and no return at all. Evap system is also simple, one idle up type valve connecting a small line from the inlet after the throttle body to the tank. That's it. Two lines to hook up and that's the fuel and evap done.

Not slow, Just over medicated. I should get that on a bumper sticker. One other fault in the car which my be related is when the stereo is muted there's bad feed back, a blowen cap somewhere in the system?

After the ECU is cleared you get one start, second start the CEL is back up, it does this every time regardless if the fault is triggered or not. MAF is 5 wire with temp sensor, I will get the multi meter on it and see where the voltages are at, only checked for continuity. SeedyAl's take the petrol cap of actualy helped and the pump has been replaced, this could also indercate a low voltage at the pump as well....... Will check in the next few days. Low voltages in the system, if I find that's the trend could be earth related, I have double checked this but the earth system is so complex a simple lead directly from the engine to the battery and from the pump to the body might sort it? Maybe? Only mentioned the unpluged MAF because I was asked if anything affects the problem and it did for the worse which tells me the MAF signal is affecting the fuel/spark map to some degree. Not slow, Just over medicated. Lol.

Thanks guys. Japawagons, I'm in Taranaki and thanks for your input it helps more than you know. Not a miss, it just cuts out. The miss was a bad coil. Will not reproduce with out load on the engine. Symptom is the same hot or cold and after clearing the ECU and is now constant, not getting worse. Not the pedal sensor, been checked. ECU has been cleared twice and the Swirl control valve fault is now gone. It was blocked. MAF fault is the only one that logs now, replacing it made no differance. Thanks for the correction on the bits I had wrong, air pressure is the same as barometric pressure however, just diferent words for the same thing. In tank filter was checked when the lift pump was done. Cam chain not he problem for two reasons, CAS (cam) checks on the VQ engines and CEL comes on, ran perfect for 500 km's after the engine was done. Who do I talk to in New Plymouth/Waitara re Wide band, live check, scope the coils etc? The Nissan guys here lost interest once replacing the MAF made no change, they did however take $300 of me for thier expertise.

Seedy Al you may have something there, will try it tomorrow. A comment / report on replys and progress and thanks to all. Yeah I agree, fuel system is where the symptoms would lead me as well. One real big issue though is it has nothing to do with the pumps. The lift pump has been swaped out with a known good one and the mechanical Direct Injection pump has also been replaced, again with a known good one. ECU error code would indercate a MAF (AFM) problem, I have had three diferent ones in the car and the last two where brand new. So we have a fuel problem via the symptoms and a AFM problem according to the error codes and the normal ways of fixing them have been explored. So we end up with an exotic fault that conventional repairs have not fixed. I've considered a Knock sensor issue but doubt it could adjust fuel and spark far enough to cut power all together. Another thought is a broken or damaged wire between the AFM and ECU but my multimeter says no, a visual exam also confirms this. Blocked cats was another thought but the fault would change with exhaust temp and it's always the same fault, nothing I have tried has made the slightest differance except unplugging the AFM which makes the problem even worse. About the only thing left is the ECU but I have no real experiance with this style of engine management. These Direct Injection Lean Burn systems are new to me. One thing I do know is if there's anything major wrong fuel economy turns to shit and that's not the case. I've just done 500km's for $80 of 98 octane which works out to 14km's/lt I would say at very low throttle but the car would still cruise at 120 and I did for bits of the trip.

flyingbrick. Someone had to say it. Had a good chuckle with the Rotary Cam Chain, thanks man I needed a good laugh. My one came from Rotovegas and is stock very boring. The cam chains are a pain but they have CAS sensors (cam not crank) on them and no reported problems from the ECU. They are set up to bring the CEL on if they are beyond tolerance. Maybe a 20B+T might be the answer. HHHMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM NO NO NO. Or A LS1 crate engine folowed by more no's Got this thing so I wouldn't want to fuck with it just drive it. 3.8 Holden might work though as a last resort.