KKtrips

Why do you need to recert - the pictures say you have a cert already?

Pretty pricy though. Dark Side of the Moon for $95 etc. WAT!

Top work man. Crate motor just makes it so damn easy. Looks nice and low too. Accolades given.

Fixed you rapscallion. See you in 2 days.

What needs to be fixed ol Freshy me boy?

Crikey thats a nasty looking injury.

Their date is clearly wrong - the next Sunday 8th March is 2020

Need a new plan staaaaan

Did you wipe clean the points surface before installing them? The two contact points will have anti-corrosion coating on them and it needs to be wiped off before installing them. I always used to open them up with my thumb and then clamp them down onto the collar of my overalls and rub them back and forth half a dozen times before installing them.

Governor Sam.

He's just gutted there isn't diddle on display.

I'm imagining lady boobs. The good ones. Sans hairy nipples.

Seek and ye shall find.

You guys from the North are pretty much driving through so you should all check out trackday. It'll be a bit of hilarity even if you get there mid afternoon in time to watch the flag drop drag racing. Rumour is you will even get to see some fantastic boobs. Costs nothing to watch. I would go but I'm already booked to be at the camp to set up.

Oh Helena. You minx.

Burnouts and Beer

Should have stickers back in stock for this...

Shhh. Just bring it.

Bringing this to Nats? I hope so...

Is the throttle body end round? It may be a 72 / 18 degree chamfer you need to do in just the top flange. Get someone smarter than me to double check my maths. It's late and I'm stupid. Alternatively, assuming the pipe is 1.2mm wall 38.1mm id plus 2.4mm wall is 40.5mm od. So only 2.5mm gap around each pipe to fill if you slide it inside the TB flange which is easily doable plus if you weld it inside and out then you can dremel a wee chamfer inside the pipe from the TB end.

Machine a 81 / 9 degree chamfer in the 10mm flange. If my tired physics/maths brain is correct with right angle triangles, then that will step it down from a 46mm on the front side to a 42mm on the back side of the plate. Weld on 42mm tube and then chamfer the other 10mm flange the same 81 / 9 degrees from 42mm to 38mm. This is assuming you haven't had the flangess made yet or bought the bends. If you have had the flanges made then investigate inserts to achieve the same effect as what I suggest, plus you can have them machine a small flange on it to sleeve inside the bends. If you have bought the bends then buy some new ones. All impractical and spendy but the best way to achieve whay you want, all in my opinion of course.

Manufacturers plate had the chassis number. Never saw a car without one in all my years doing WOFs in the early 90s From memory VIN plates only came out in the early to mid 90s. When Jap Imports started getting really popular. Edit - I just re-read your question, re-reg was not a big deal as you just used the original chassis plate number and remember that continuous vehicle registration was not a thing. I think vehicles only fell off the system after 3 years or something and you didn't have to backpay reg if you forgot for a couple of years.

Actual Mexican Rum - not MEXICAN RUM AREBA! ANDALE! ANDALE! nooooo that is baaaaad.

I've got some Mexican RUM!

Yup 16's are on it now - we can muse over a can of Lion Brown. It's a lot better than black 16's though. Well I reckon so anyway.