Beaver

@Sambo any idea what the timing should be on the Carby z24? Edit- herp a derp I just read your last post. 10-12 you reckon? Cheers

Well fuck a duck, has only taken me the whole of lock down to find some motivation haha. Replaced the Frost plug and have reassembled most of it. Battery is flat so need to drop onto the floor and push out of shed so I can jump start and check I didn't fuck anything up before I finish assembling front of car. Oh,and didn't do any of the other things I said I was going to do in the previous post. Just smashed it all with degreaser, problem solved.

Disesal. Didn't think about in gear with handbrake, what a retard I am.

Tips for keeping things still when torquing up crank pulley bolt on an engine that's insitu? Pulley goes on after cambelt, so could potentially jam another one of the pulleys (e.g.injector pump) and rely on cambelt to hold but not sure that's a great idea. Better to try jam flywheel via starter motor hole maybe? Access/cover plate on gbox is sandwiched between motor and gbox I'm pretty sure.

I'm up there next week. Going to tell them how much of a sissy gang the foamers are, and that they shouldn't associate themselves with such specimens. /spam

Fuck Foamers. Speedcocks rule

Hard to say for sure as I sort of just try everything all at once to get it going but yeh, would say it definitely needs some gas before it will go. That reminds me, I've been meaning to check the timing actually as it's sometimes a bit pingy under heavy load.

Any tips for checking/fixing this?

Short of replacing it and seeing if anything changes, is there a way to test?

Petrol carb motor hard to start when hot....any obvious things to check? My ute generally takes a bit of effort to start when its hot (i.e. stopping during a long drive or whatever) and takes a few goes to get to it catch. Seems to stumble a bit then cleans up quickly and runs fine (well as fine as it normally runs). Also has a slight intermittent miss under load and low rpm. Doubt its related but figured I'd throw that in the mix. Has new leads and plugs in the recent past.

This guy knows what's up.

Pretty happy how it turned out. Nothing wild but looks heeeaps better

Hi

At risk of getting bashed by the locals I'll see what I can do

That's why I get paid the big bucks /I wish

Will be heading through the park in a few weeks for work, always get max pine when doing do. Definitely not as much fun in a car....

So little bit of lock down tidy up, painted the grill and bumoer black and used some plastic refurb stuff on the lower panel. Came up a treat and looks waaaay tidier. Black ties in nicely with the black tray as well. Also bought some wheels (15s), nothing cray cray but are tidy/refurbed and price was right. Hopefully pick them up next week after level 2

Just a thought, some fuel pumps like to pull, rather than push (i.e. those in engine bays will gen really be pullers not pushers). By moving the pump back to the tank its possible it won't like it. One way to find out tho....so if its running and working as it should then just ignore me

Pretty sure science says that doesnt work (high pressure area or something something). Easy thing to test though, so worth a shot.

Sign me up!

How sure are you of those calcs? I'm just picturing the lever action in my head and I can't make the numbers work (i.e. it doesn't look right that the difference between the wheel path and the spring link is that much). Obviously you have the bike in front of you so I'm not doubting you, just want to make sure that you're sure....hahaha. Is it possible to do move the linkage through it's travel without the spring or whatever? Feel free to tell me to go away haha

Some are 5, most are 10 "Beverage and some welding gases require a periodic test cycle of 5 years while most other gas cylinders, argon etc, require a testing cycle of 10 years."

Mount off the caliper mount/arm thingy?