cletus

New bike shed? Was thinking of doing that in back yard for more room

Fugly. Started prep today, making a frame to put stuff on/utebike

yep if you put taller springs in, and they meet the requirements in the threshold, wouldn't need cert.

yes, an open car can have a full cage, the trick with fitting it in an mx5 would be getting it to fit in the B-zone (have a look at the standard I linked, that describes the measurements to work out a,b and c zones) head restraint, is headrests on seats.

sounds weird for a factory setup to not be captive. as far as proving that is normal for sd1's, workshop manual maybe?

definitely needs cert, and they often cause problems. I can see in my crystal ball, in the future, the shit will hit the fan for a lot of people who have brand new rangers/hiluxes/navaras etc with strut spacers fitted and they go for their first wof after owning it for 3 years. then they will need cert and they wont pass due to all the binding issues they all have and they will kick up a stink because "it drives fine and its been like that since new"

fun fact not all vehicles need an authority card to run a full cage- rules- A roll-cage may be positioned within the B-Zone of a low volume vehicle occupant cell, provided that (a) the vehicle is not a modified production Class MA, with unitary body construction, which has a permanent roof structure; and (b) the requirements of 2.4(9) are met. 2.4(9) A low volume vehicle fitted with a roll-bar or a roll-cage, must have: (a) a head restraint fitted to provide protection for each occupant where a roll-bar or roll-cage section exists immediately behind a seat, positioned between the occupant seating position and the roll-bar or roll-cage section; and (b) no unprotected hard or sharp bracketry including a roll-bar or roll-cage mount, seatbelt mount, or fastener positioned where it would be likely to be contacted by an occupant in the event of an impact or roll-over; and (c) all sections of a roll-bar or a roll-cage positioned adjacent to any A-Zone must be covered in a high density energy absorbing material which: (i) meets SFI specification 45.1 or another equivalent motor-sporting specification; and (ii) is not less than 15 mm in thickness in the area facing the occupant cell. https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Interior_Impact.pdf

The standard was updated in 2016 and it now says it has to be fully welded. If it is done in a way that it is safe and you can prove it, then you could probably get an exemption from that requirement. I don't think the standard is quite right as it is written now, as it says that when you fit an adjustable sleeve on to an un shortened shock body it has to be fully welded top and bottom. From memory the idea of welding the sleeve top and bottom was only necessary if someone shortened the shock body by cutting it, butt welding, and then fitting the sleeve over the join.

Those are one of my pet hates. They are a cock up in my opinion. you have two solid parts -the engine mount bracket, and the crossmember- joined together with a solid thing - the bolt- with a compressible thing in the middle- the red part. So you cant tighten the bolt properly, the red bit allows a small amount of movement so the bolt can move in the holes, it vibrates just as much as a solid mount anyway cause the bolt transfers vibration..... No OEM manufacturer makes a mount for anything using the same principle as that. the ones with the hard plastic, I looked into the specs for some once, and the temp rating was an issue for use as an engine mount the same thing with an alloy spacer or steel would be fine.

if it was me id cut it out, (or "reshape" it) and when he gets it certified for the s/c, get the bonnet mod included.

I like bacon. Are you going to panel/ paint the outsides at the same time?

Locking in attendance for these shenanigans

Yep in your case you could do that no problem

my grandad has a poo brown 924 with matching poo brown tartan interior ive always thought it would be ripe for a drillport 13b conversion and some unreadable graffiti stickers

Pretty sure those were hydraulic - like a ram that moved the mount of the coilover from memory

possibly. I think someone got some approved for use thru LVVTA, IMO a bit pointless though if you wanted to set it up legally, as far as I know they are only designed to raise the suspension to clear bumps or driveways etc- they are not designed to be driven on inflated, so would have limited travel ie if the coilover spring is set up so it has zero preload with the cup deflated (so the spring is still captive at normal ride height) then that only gives you as much lift, as the suspension has droop travel (ie till the shocks top out- this is usually 30-50mm for most common bolt in coil overs like BC etc) and you wouldn't be able to drive it like that apart from slow speed stuff and even then you could get stuck when it picks a wheel up off the ground going in a driveway and would still need the same control system as a normal bag setup ie compressor, tank, 8x valves etc and they are not cheap I think bags would be better- at least then you could drop it on to the bumpstops when parked instead of normal ride height could argue that a car may handle better with springs rather than bags but I think if someone was more concerned with handling then they wouldn't be fitting stuff like this to a car anyway also I saw some on an import 300c last week and the front ones appeared to be knackered due to road shit getting up in the cup- they didn't work very well

Exhaust Systems 2.3(9) An exhaust system fitted to a low volume vehicle must: (a) be of a good design using materials suitable for the purpose; and (b) terminate in a position where the outer end of the exhaust pipe is not directly underneath or in front of the passenger compartment; and (c) in the case of an external exhaust system which extends beyond the outer longitudinal extremity of the vehicle or the outer sidewall of the tyres: (i) have a radius of no less than 3 mm on any sections facing toward the front of the vehicle; and (ii) have any sections of exposed exhaust contactable from the front of the vehicle or adjacent to points of occupant entry and exit adequately heat-shielded; and (d) be in good condition and free of leaks; and (e) be securely attached to the vehicle, using a mounting system that enables all necessary engine movement without stressing the exhaust system; and (f) along with the body of a low volume vehicle in the areas adjacent to the vehicle’s exhaust system, be sufficiently sealed so as to prevent the entry of any exhaust gases into the passenger compartment, and (g) be designed, constructed, and fitted in such a way that the exhaust system, or components within the exhaust system, cannot be removed, altered, or interfered with, without the use of hand tools. I think you will be fine. as a side note that whole 12 inches past the last opening window thing and the variations I hear on it, are old wives tales, or its a rule in Australia or something, I looked into it years ago and couldn't find any requirement like that in NZ. it was in 2016 that they added "in front of" to line (b), before that you could certify a hot rod with this style of exhaust if you could get it quiet enough

Productive day today. Got wof on van, wof on valiant, fitted tyres and got them balanced, obtained wheel nuts, lowered van, drove van, rolled guards, took a photo. Flip yeah that looks tip top I reckon Thanks to @Snoozin for the wheels

That had the rear bump stops cut down heaps, the pad on the diff that the bumpstop contacts removed, some modified 4x4 shocks, and some mystery springs. In the front I bolted the lower ball joint on top of the arm and trimmed some bump stops. The pinion angle starts to get a bit funky that low but it drove pretty good. IMO it looked best on 13s. I tried some 15x8 but they hit the suspension on the front and didn't look quite right. The 13s make it look kind of cartoonish. It got quite funny reactions. People either thought it was really awesome or really dumb, not much in the middle

This is my old one

It's torsion front, coil rear. If I do put bags in it would only be the rear. My last one I spent ages mucking around with springs to get the right height. I thought bags might fix that. I found all the suspension from my last one in a box under the house tonight

possibly. ive been considering what id need to make my bike ready for such a trip. some better tyres, engine size upgrade and some storage capability

scootering trips and transport was one of the reasons for a van. so much versatility and potential for activities. and cheap to run so I can save gas moneys for v8 powered other things

Anybody know what this says?

The ute left today with its new owner. Trademe was interesting, it had 2200 views and 70 something watchers. only had two offers. so then I went and looked at a van this afternoon, pick it up tomorrow. yes im a retard and for some reason I like doing the same things over, I liked my last one of these and I have the suspension from the last one for pre sorted slammage. also I have accumulated some air suspension stuff so I should be able to bag the rear of it easily if I want to.