cletus

Yes how it is attached to the body, the tube size, back stay attachment measurements, height of belt anchorages, all becomes more important and subject to requirements in the CCM

If the belts are not mounted to it, you only have to take the interior impact part into consideration

Can have hoses for cert.

Depends if it's got belts mounted to it or not

IMO your radiator and fans are not up to the task. Did you try the hose on the radiator trick? Can you unbolt the ac radiator for now to see if that makes it better with more air flow directly on the radiator? Does driving around with the heater on full hot make it better? I think you need to forget the fact that it used to be ok before fitting the blower otherwise you will continue to chase your tail looking for the problem Xox good luck etc Edit, yowzer covered it

Holden astra has an electric pump as well, might be easier to find in straya

Is doable, I started a job for someone doing the same sort of thing with a mercedes donor and studebaker body, we did a torsional twist test on the donor before he started cutting, the idea was to have no more deflection than the donor started with The only concern is when you use a body that was designed to have a full chassis, as a monocoque, then its probably not strong enough, as the body was not intended to be as structural as the lexus body was But it's not difficult to add some strength as you are building it

Nah hes fucked it up Everyone knows holes in inner guards should be cut with a tin opener, cold chisel, or a very angry dog.

That looks very good for getting electrocuted with

No, that hasn't changed, the needing cert for a different ecu only applies to turbo or supercharged cars, and that has been that way for a long time

Just the usual common sense stuff... make sure the shock and spring rates are compatible, spring is captive, sits in the seat properly etc

New version of wof threshold comes out 1st April Theres some changes to what you can do without cert. The main change is fuel systems, it was quite open to mods before, now its the opposite. @ajg193 you might need to get a cert next time

Depends on the look of the rest of the bike IMO If you were building something that had other features that went with it then yes Otherwise it messes with the clean uncluttered look

Hj60 landcruiser radiator was the biggest size I could find to fit in the gap available, fits not bad just need to move or put an angled lower outlet on the bottom tank so it clears the exhaust

I was keen, but mrs bought tickets for something aaages ago that I have to go to

Yeah rub is verboten This is going to be a fun car to drive, I approve x295376

If it feels softer than the front and it doesn't rebound slowly, its probably not the shocks being too stiff that's causing the harshness, it may just need a stiffer spring and a more squishy bump stop My van does similar crashy harsh things over big bumps and it's got a similar setup by the looks of it. A shorter shock from the front of a 4x4 which is a lot stiffer than the stock ones, a bumpstop that's short and flat, and a spring that's a bit soft

@yetchh if you bounce the back of the car doest it rebound slowly?

Does it sag much when you put people in the back?

If it's not a binding problem I'd do springs and shocks to fix it Springs to stiffen the suspension and carry the weight , and shocks to control the higher rate spring

First thing to do is make sure the bump stop is the thing that limits the travel If you are getting a sharp bang /knock make sure it's not the shock bottoming out or the spring coils binding, diff hitting the floor, or something like that

Did it this way with a neat looking flexi joint i got from Sinco It's a tight fit down there, have to jack one side of the motor up, unbolt and half remove the down pipe, take the manifold off then it comes out...

Yeah theres few things more annoying than a seal that decides to start leaking after you've removed and refitted all the stuff to get to it

AFWE in mangere? Cardwells maybe?

Try running it till it's hot till the point where the fans cant keep up. Then run a garden hose over the radiator core If that cools it down quick you know it's the radiator or fan that's not up to the job If it doesn't cool it you know it's in the engine, a flow problem or a gasket wrong etc My valiant has an afco alloy radiator and a big Davies Craig fan on it. It's fine with the engine that's in it now but when it had a fmic in front of it and all the turbo gear on, it was always borderline and it would get hot, especially at the drags Maybe it was at 95% before and you never had a problem but now theres just enough stuff on it to tip it over the edge where it cant deal with it