cletus

You trimmed the studs wrong there m8 You are meant to do it with the adaptor still on. Make sure you cut into the studs and mangle the face of the adaptor as well. Like this.

if its got any rust or previous repairs it will need a repair cert at re reg time I would suggest getting a repair certifier involved from the start- its cheap compared to stripping it again later if you try to sneak it through without, and the certifier wants it done slightly differently or wants to see it before paint etc

I think that would be ok

ill admit to asking a dumb question here. but if anyone has some recent experience that would be good how much would I be looking at spending to get this thing painted? not after show car spec, just tidy it up in the same white (enamel?) and sort out some surface rust on the roof before it goes bad. usual stone chips and stuff id paint it myself if it was a matt colour, which I might do yet, ive had a couple of ideas chur

Sweet!

Have decided to use a water air intercooler this time , I'm going to mount it in the passenger side footwell/ up against the firewall where the heater was This means the intercooler pipes can be somewhat hidden. I'll run a pipe from the turbo under the rh guard thru the firewall . Out of the intercooler there will be a pipe thru the hole where the wiper motor was, straight into the carb hat This meant I had to shift the wiper motor to inside the car under the dash which is also a bonus cause it's very ugly. So I mucked around for ages getting the position right and made this thing. Shit update but it's progress at least...

the engine weight is more of an issue than hp, so a beetle probably wouldn't need the spindles upgraded for an engine swap, where the engine is in the back draglites/prostars are ok

Obviously that comes with a common sense clause, fitting a big block chev into a fronte would not be made ok by fitting larger studs into factory hubs with matchsticks for spindles

Yep that's one of the options in the engine and drive train standard Usually required for an engine swap that is heavier than original, ie a 302 into a capri- upgrade the wheel studs to 1/2 and that matches , for example, a fox body mustang- they were 4 stud, 1/2 studs and factory fitted with a 302

Cert plate would need updating to match the mods to the car.

Cant find anything that specifically says a max increase, apart from maximum overall width, and max track width difference front to rear, how you do it would determine what requirements would apply Most likely would require design approval for that sort of modification

ka pai waka my bro

try Iain at autolign, mt wellington he is a GC of the highest order

Carbs sound cool @1.54 in your video sounds like it is pinging though, might be too much timing?

It can do. A wof check= $30-40 1hr of my time=$150 I often tell people it can save them money, especially if the vehicle is rough

Wof check sheet dated within 14 days of cert inspection = certifier doesn't have to check wof items when doing a cert.

i wouldn't bother unless you need to for some other reason, it will be fine for a road car

Wind the spring platform down till there is zero preload on the spring- ie you can turn the spring easily by hand How much have you got?

Quick way of checking if the pushrod is too long, undo the nuts holding it on a bit and jam some washers between it and the body and try it

Would always be the spider gears that let go wouldn't it? The ones I've broken have all been subjected to teenager activity, ie big one wheel peels till the spider gear melts a bit and it and the pin goes blue and says yeah nah I'm out of here next time you drop the clutch

I think they are pretty good. My valiant has only ever had a stock bw diff apart from a 4 spider lsd that is pretty tight, still 25 spline too. I think it being auto and turbo was easier on it due to no shock loading- I used to check the axle splines fairly regularly and they never showed signs of twisting until it went under mid 12s /boost went to 10psi A manual would be a different story I think

yeah that^. was going to draw a pic, that would be much better. znoelli in auckland makes them to order

steel or alloy, the plastic ones would not be acceptable with a spacer, unless the hub spigot sticks out far enough to locate the wheel properly

nope nothing about exhaust brakes, the only semi relevant thing is adjustable exhaust noise flaps/things like that that adjust exhaust volume are not allowed- but I think if the exhaust is not loud with the exhaust brake off or open, should be ok

probably hold off on NDT till its been thru TAC how to fill out a design approval- https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01_2016_LVV_Custom_Independent_Front_and_Rear_Suspension_Approval_Application_Guide.pdf