cletus

Depends what bit you have welded. If you have just welded a threaded part on for an adjustable platform- no If you have welded a new tube on - yes If you welded on an adjustable platform and shortened the shock- yes

1. Got all the air burps out of the cooling system? 2. Someone told me a yarn about 1uz heater circuits years ago. If you have the heater outlet looped at the back of the engine it needs a restriction in the loop otherwise the water can hoon around the engine getting hotter and not going through the radiator 3. Radiator hoses the right way around? Probably doesnt matter with a cross flow rad but I had a customer with an uppy downy rad where the hoses were the wrong way round at the engine and it got hot 4. Put a bloody 302 in it like it's meant to have, you bloody wanker

I was so amazed/stoked that it made it the whole way Also your undercarriage must be made of titanium , the seat did not look comfortable at all

They need to be certified, or taking them out is probably easier if the car doesnt need a cert for anything else

Kerry Buchanan is a certifier in Auckland who specializes in bikes, and can cert an EV conversion as well, so he would be perfect for your project @djotter

Can cut them but any strength lost has to be put back in somehow From memory all the ones I've done that have been built here have standard spring pockets I havnt dealt with the air ride nz guy much but hes a good sort, hes been mucking around with air suspension for a long time

The other big reason is getting an even suspension weight on each corner, if someone was not paying attention or was an idiot it is easy to get the car level so it looks fine, but have very uneven settings- like 100psi in the left front and right rear and 20 in the other two, then you have 2 wheels that will lock up under braking, or the car will do weird things going around a corner The book also mentions the twisting on the vehicles structure being an issue which makes sense if it's not a very strongly built car

No, you dont have to have a self leveling system, you would need gauges with a mark on them so you can get the height correct though That's where it gets tricky getting the car level. Ie if you come up, and the left side is 10psi too low, if it's only got front and back adjustment then you cant do anything. You can have side to side control but then for example if you hit the left side up switch then you end up with too much pressure in the left rear bag instead I have had ideas on how to do a basic control system that would go to the same level every time but it wouldn't be able to go above ride height

Pressure only leveling systems are a waste of time IMO They have a preset pressure for a given ride height, ie 50psi So you then put 3 people in the car and the suspension goes down 20mm The pressure in the bag goes up , so the system drops it back to 50psi so the car drops lower again because of the passengers weight I checked a car once that dropped 50mm with passengers in it because of that which meant it was sitting on the bump stops. The opposite of one of the main advantages of an air suspension system

The rules say you cant have individual wheel control, and you have to have a pair of valves for each bag basically, to prevent the air transferring across when you go around a corner So the problem with that is it's quite difficult to get a car to come up level every time when the switch for up or down operates both valves at the same time. In theory it works if the lines are all the same volume but in practice it doesnt The best system I've seen is the e level one that has the height sensor that attaches to the suspension rather than the pressure based system. Even those have a few issues at cert time, mostly around the controller The rulebook really needs an update, its 12 years old now and air suspension systems have progressed a bit from when it was written

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Thanks to @Raizer 's tip on sandblaster cabinets being cheap at the moment I went and got one today. Makes cleaning up crappy old parts easy I had to get a bigger compressor as well, supercheap has a special going on those at the moment too, $550 including an air hose

If that came to me as a job, I wouldn't pass it. you could run it past LVVTA and see what they say, they might approve it if you can prove its strong enough somehow But You have an engine which makes a lot more power, a decent brake upgrade, I assume better suspension and tyres than original... so the load on that part is increased over what it was originally designed for, and now it's nearly half as thick in a critical area. I dont think it would go through

Yes, E has a thinner cylinder base gasket as well for more compression. It's funny, the first question on any drz400e wrecking auction on tm, is 'how much for the carb?'

Found a DRZ400 E front pipe on trademe, tidied it up, painted and put it on. E pipe is bigger than S or SM, not by much (I think its 38mm vs 42mm ish od) but now it matches the rear pipe size better Bum dyno shows no noticeable change but at least it looks tidier

If you like the car, and want to keep it, option b, do it without cutting it up, that way you can enjoy it and if it's worth more original, you can bolt the original engine back in later if you decide to sell it

Anyhoo I'd already pulled it apart and ol xin p. ling at the blow off valve factory has been putting the wrong size o rings in, got a couple of new ones and tried it, now it seals pretty well

Blow off valve Having steel i/c pipes makes selection a little bit tricky as not many come with a steel weld on fitting and I wanted a decent size one. The only ones I found were quite expensive, like $500 or more so I took a punt on a copy aliexpress tial one. It seems ok apart from it doesnt seal. I sent aliexpress man a message

4.5 for most vehicles

Will need a new plate for the factory wheels.

Or do this

Not sure who does them in nz , you could try adrenalinR? They might be able to make one

Yes as long as it meets all the other requirements in the virm threshold, and the pedals had enough clearance to not cause issues

Is it a bosch alternator with a plug that looks like an injector plug on it? If so One is the sense wire, goes to the battery Other one is the warning lamp I got one the other day and I think the guy said it will work without the warning light hooked up but it's a good idea to hook it up anyway

'Body transfer vehicle' Could apply to any car haha