cletus

Must be a bmw thing , saw a woman driving a bmw SUV yesterday with wires hanging out the edge of the front tyres

Yeah that's the worst thing about china tyres, I have some cheap 265/30/19 on my falcon which are terrible in moist conditions

How's the oil pressure situation after the re rebuild? Did you find what was causing it? You must have done a heap of kms in it, I seem to remember it wasn't that long ago you replaced tyres, good work actually using your old car for its intended purpose

Only if @KKtrips is doing the formset review

Nah I think it will probably be a bit more work, certifiers dont do the data entry bit, that will be LVVTA, so more info to put in plus sort through which photos to use

There was going to be a much larger increase which would have been unaffordable. The NZTA deal took care of most of it but there was still a shortfall which is covered by the increase The cost part that certifiers pay is pretty much $200, next year it will be $250 It sounds like there will be a few things to lighten the blow a bit though, the new system instead of plates will make things a lot easier, and the CCM will probably be free to download

Unbolt exhaust at the headers for drags? It's what a proper drag car would do And by proper drag car I mean a HQ with a tired 350/th350/2.75 geared single spinner 9 inch with a badly jetted 600 holley and one of those fake 3 hole scoops thru the bonnet and some rusty chrome rocker covers and an accel super coil and a moroso sticker and a jack daniels towel over the ripped rear seat top and a wildcat steering wheel with the center cap missing and a sticker on the back window that says only milk and juice comes in 2l

Nah, went from aliexpress direct on to the carb with no oil on it TBH I forgot they needed to be oiled

I was surprised at how much sand got in the carb of my crapscooter at 18 escapade after some skiddys on the beach, with one of those foam filters

You might want to get your swap done and certed before February next year, LVVTA are increasing the cost price of a cert $50

I had a decent look under the car and found a few bits I wasn't happy with, sent autoblast an email about it, no response. So I'll tell everyone to avoid them. Heres why 1. It took a week longer which, to be fair I agreed to and I could have lived with, if it was a good job. I had to chase them, they didnt contact me. This was after giving them at least 6 weeks notice when booking it in 2. The overspray issues, they painted the black parts then primed the engine bay so there was primer misted all over the black especially at the front . This cost $225+gst to repaint at the painters 3. The ripped hoodlining, I dunno how this happened, air got under it? It's an old car and probably got fragile stitching but they must have some issue with their process if parts inside the car get wrecked 4. Thin spots in the paint you can see steel through, parts which are not painted very well or at all, and poor masking. All shows a lack of care or thinking about the job properly So all that cost $2800. I could have got it done for half that at a less reputable place , for the same result, ie me having to finish it better myself

Green one sounds like it has a lot of compression? Interesting about the air valve thing, never knew about that existing

Would be funny to put a Lifan in one of those

I think the key thing for americans is that it is easy and bolts on where a carb went, and tunes itself. And they are getting cheaper If they had to do things like run wiring through a hole in the firewall to plug in to an ECU it would only run for a week before the wires rub through on the jagged edge of the hole they made using an AR15 because it's their goddamn right to bear arms and they ain't using a drill, it's made in china

Might have filed it by hand then finished with the sander Whatever it was it was only a step better than rubbing it on the concrete floor

Something rough as guts, like rubbed it in the bore to see where it had high spots, then sanded the high spots with a DA sander

Is it a Chinese piston? Last big bore scoot engine I did with china parts , the piston was too tight in places and I had to creatively "machine" some extra clearance It then survived a trip around the east Cape at wot for 3 days so it must have been good

Yeah that would be fine

So you are talking about an IRS center and just modifying the drive flanges on the diff? If so I think you would be ok cert wise as nothing really bad would happen if it broke, unlike a solid axle rear end where the axle can come out if it breaks in some situations

technically it would need cert, as it is a structural mod due to the guards not being welded on any more , even if the guards are not very structural Depends how legal you want to be I guess. If you need a cert for other mods it would be easy to get that certed at the same time

I had one, it was the worst car I ever had I hated it so much I gave it a considerable amount of shit like full throttle no clutch shifts and many rev limiter skids. It popped a coolant hose off on the way to work one day and I just kept driving until it seized. It did that 3 or 4 times until I got to work I cant remember what happened to it, probably got sent to the wreckers

K member mods. Because the torsion bars are gone, ive got rid of the torsion bar adjusters in the arms, welded in some bush housings into the arms to suit B2000 spring eye bushes, seam welded the k member, ( the factory welding is shit in places) and welded some bushes to make the torsion bar pin holes the right size for 5/8 bolts today's job was to add some extra mounts to support the arm better. I haven't been looking forward to this job because I couldnt think of a good way of doing it that doesnt look stupid. I've been copying a coilover conversion kit you can buy from someone called "hemidenny" in the states That kit has some bolt on brackets you have to drill and weld crush tubes into the chassis rails which I didnt really like as the chassis rail is kinda far away from the arm pivot. So I did it this way by attaching some heavy wall tube under the k member with 5mm tabs to attach to the through bolt. Its tricky to get in the right place, too far inboard and the steering hits them, too far out and it restricts droop travel cause the arms hit the tube Anyway that's done so I can send the k member to get powdercoated

Has to be vac rated hose or the oe one. There is no way around it unfortunately

The best thing is we can fit it at time of inspection and dont have to wait for the plate to come back then get the vehicle back again to fit the plate. For some reason people are happy to bring a car for inspection but get a lot of people complaining about having to come back for the plate to be fitted, it always seems to be a hassle to organize a time, tell people I'm at the shop from 8 till 5pm and 3 of them will turn up at 4.57PM , etc