Jump to content

cletus

Moderators
  • Posts

    13237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    79

Everything posted by cletus

  1. Nope just has to be fit for purpose, done properly etc
  2. I did a colorado a while ago with a fairly big lift, first it had upper ball joint spacers, I put a gopro on the top arm and jammed the brakes on a few times, you could clearly see the arm flexing due to the increased leverage It then got some aftermarket arms but they had some issue with cast or forged bits being welded so they couldnt be certified Then the arms got the spacers put back on but had substantial bracing added, they still flexed slightly but it was similar to a stock one I tested so they were deemed ok The shocks had to be lowered to the bottom of their adjustment to get enough droop travel as well Lifted IFS things are a pain in the balls, everyone who does these mods wants their ute lifted as much as possible, and have often spent a lot of money to get stupid angles on suspension arms, no droop travel, cv boots that flog out every 5k, and are usually very reluctant to fix them (lower it back to a height where things work)
  3. I'd be careful what you purchase from them, they sell a lot of parts that certifiers have been told not to certify
  4. Nah clutch pedal is a free for all, no requirements apart from do things in a tradesman like manner
  5. I have a 500cfm on a mild 318 and that works very well. Originally I had an engine with a 500 two barrel holley but wanted a 4 barrel with smaller primaries so it would run more efficiently
  6. If you dont have a gauge on it already I'd put one on and see what it's like through the rest of the rev range before driving it too much I have had the same issue on a rebuilt engine and it was a faulty pressure switch
  7. Did it do it before the rebuild ?
  8. New mount has to span the height of the rail so that can either be a new bracket the same height, or you can weld a plate on and build a mount off that
  9. The problem is the arms dont correct the geometry apart from maybe correcting caster and camber problems at the new ride height, so while they allow the vehicle to be lifted more the pivot points are all in the same places so the geometry still sucks. None of the common late model ifs things take a lift very well in my opinion
  10. Yeah pretty pleased to not find any ugly stuff hiding under the guards
  11. I know nothing about these engines, but are you comparing a race engine to an engine designed for a everyday runaround? Dig-t-r
  12. Cant see why not, you can buy 90deg angle brackets that are just a bit of flat bar bent to 90deg I'd make it out of 30x3 minimum and use the correct seatbelt size bolts and dont make it too long ( ie the buckle bolt is as close to the floor anchorage as it can be, not offset ) and you should be fine Scratch built vehicle has to have retractable lap diagonal web clamp belts in the front, and retractable lap diagonal in the back , according to my interpretation of the rules, which is in the frontal impact standard at lvvta.org.nz , and the nzta virm
  13. Not sure if its relevant to your vehicle or situation, but Swann insurance give a club discount if you mention you are a member of oldschool
  14. Removed more things and made a dolly that bolts in to the front subframe mounts
  15. cletus

    Diffs

    @johnny.race I saw some radial mount brackets on a hilux diff the other day and they were like this, I didnt look very closely as they were asking me about something else , may have only been picking up 3x axle bearing bolts. I think they started with a thick piece of steel they whittled down on a mill
  16. cletus

    Diffs

    Have not had any issues for cert with wilwood calipers, most dont have dust seals on the pistons, I think there might be a rule in aussie where they are required as I've seen some advertising somewhere saying " x caliper has seals so are legal" The wilwood handbrake ones however, I've never seen any that work very well, they often struggle to pass the handbrake requirements for cert which is 30 to 0 kph in 18m or hold on a 1 in 5 gradient
  17. Lots of cars get certed before they get registered, so no plates
  18. You would scan it with a phone, so most people would be able to access the info I dont know how that works, but everyone being able to access the info was discussed and there is a way of doing it apparently
  19. Last training session we had, there was a plan to get rid of plates and replace them with a small plastic disc with a chip in it, that you could scan and it would take you to a website or app or something with photos of the vehicle as certified, and much greater detail on vehicle mods than can be fitted on the plate
×
×
  • Create New...