cletus

I spent ages cleaning the 53 years of human hands goop off the wheel, I'm going to stick with the stock wheel I think

Probably worthwhile if it's not shit A way of seeing if it will do anything is to stick a length of masking tape between the two strut tops and jack the car up diagonally or bounce on the suspension If the tape moves, ie gets a dip in it, you will know the towers are moving around

Last pair of spring plates I got from summit , they were pretty cheap, $15 usd or something like that

What a saga on the trans. Bloody hell m8

I really like satin or matt black but I do think it makes the car look cheaper, like you cant afford a "proper" paint job Which is fine if that's the look you want or if the car is a bit of a beater anyway That factory colour is nice IMO a respray in that colour and keep all the factory chrome

Its do able, whether it needs redoing or not will depend on how well it was done in the first place, will need a certifier to have a look at it to see if it needs any further strengthening

Valentine's day.

That is different to the info I was thinking of, but that is more relevant as it mentions having serrations to locate the joint , when there is a single nut holding the joint in place so the certifier may be reading it wrong or as KY said, ass covering I've certed a few of that style arms from various manufacturers, if they fail it's usually for other reasons, like Car is low, has too much camber Camber arms fitted to correct camber Camber arm is longer to allow top ball joint to come out further Body does not allow space for full travel of the ball joint when its further out Ball joint hits body Have to raise suspension to remedy fouling Dont need camber arms now because camber isn't a problem any more =A circle of money spending and fucking around is complete

Theres nothing recently that has changed, I cant find where it is now but there was a thing about having something to lock the arms on a mustang 2 top arm camber adjustment, maybe the certifier is applying that to everything I cant think of any of that adjustment type that has anything to lock it from moving, apart from the bolts

Depends on the car. Because the load of the vehicle weight is put on a different part of the car, ie the shock mount, often it needs strengthening where the shock is mounted top and bottom Probably less work to stick to separate spring shock setup Some vehicles LVVTA requires FEA testing to prove that the hub assembly can carry the weight, this affects cars like 350z etc where the coilover attaches to the hub

616 plus driveline losses is like 700 at the engine?! Goodness me David, you are going to foul your underwear if you depress the accelerator fully!

Last time I bought some , the most economical way was to get them from super cheap But yes, snug fit in the holes, and not longer in the shank than the wheel is thickness wise And steel washers. Also if you are getting close to bottoming out the nut, make sure the wheel stud doesn't taper out at the bottom. I've seen that happen and the nut got stretched bigger at the shank end, making it very difficult to get back out of the wheel...

Driveshaft - russell at driveshaft specialists, andromeda cres east tamaki Hes a good sort

Shit all my cars have bad safety and emissions I'll be calling zebra to come get them all and crush them so I can ride the bus I wouldn't want to sell them to some poor unsuspecting person

My daughters 10th birthday is on the 14th, I hadn't really thought about it that much, when I mentioned it to her, the look on her face made me realise I wont be attending....

Apart from answering the phone a million times to explain the difference between heavy and light certification, and hear all about their camper van and how long they have had it and how many cofs it's already had and how ridiculous the rules are here in nz blah blah blah No, thankfully I dont have to deal with it

Steering column shortened, painted everything, got a clamp type u joint. now have steering again which I find useful

I bought a set of new 14" ones about 10 years ago and I think they were $250 each or thereabouts But 13" ones were not remade as far as I know and are now super rare so I guess you could ask whatever you like? If someone wanted to do a period correct car with 13s they would be a key ingredient

@NickJ I wouldn't think those ex roll bar mounts would be an issue, maybe put some bolts in the holes

Depends on how much movement there is in the engine mounts but I'd aim for at least 30mm at a minimum, more if you can, to allow enough room for a heat shield and air gap and nothing being able to touch

Oh man Every. Single. Time. It's like the first mod when you google "mods to do on subarus " is remove and throw away the heat shield

Emission standard https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Gas_Emissions.pdf There are frontal impact requirements for a new scratch built vehicle but they are very basic and easy to meet Its covered by doing things like leaving the front chassis rails unboxed forward of the suspension mounts, or putting holes in the rails , or using a smaller section material, etc etc

Cut your losses, remake it so it has clearance You need enough clearance for engine movement on the mounts, and it's going to move closer to the booster with engine torque Also need enough room for an effective heat shield with an air gap between both parts

Yes , definitely required.

I just used that on a job Do I get a chocolate starfish for being first? *edit* some feedback, the size I'm looking at was not on the old sheet, but is covered on the new one so that's good