cletus

Some snow tyres are legal but they have a different tread minimum. They are garbage to drive on though. Heaps of tread squirm so they always have some 'slip' when braking/accelerating/cornering. Driving something powerful on snow tyres is lol

Might be an easy option for your tyre issue https://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product?id=25759&Productid=Tyre 13 18570R13 Vitour Galaxy R1 86T white side wall 10mm

That sounds like a scary story you tell at a campfire with a torch under your chin

You cant blame the oil, I've seen you shift gears lol

From memory one of them is not compatible /not ideal with bronze or brass, that might be it?

Suspension partially done, 2" drop spindles, 3" lower springs in the front , and diff put on top of the springs in the back. I drew up a notch and got that laser cut, that's ready to pick up this week so next job is to whip the tray off and glue the notch in and make some shock mounts One of the front shocks fell apart when I took it out , that explains the rattle in the front suspension I'm not sure if the wheels will stay, one has started rusting already and its probably going to rub once the front bumpstops get a trim and the rear has some travel. So I'll probably put the stock wheels back on And waiting for some new front shocks I ordered a couple of weeks ago but I think covid has slowed that down

Sounds like the perfect woman for you

That's probably something that will depend on a few things Think of it this way if it's easily contactable ie someone getting in or out of the vehicle or leaning against it could burn themselves then it needs heat shielding. If its 8 feet in the air and you need a ladder to burn yourself then you wont need to worry

Theres some info in the engine and driveline chapter of the CCM And the rest is in the exhaust noise standard https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf Basically if its behind the cab, mounted properly, and has heat shielding around it where passengers/driver could possibly contact it then it will be ok

He wasn't a bad guy really. I got on with him fine He lost his position at nzta due to an excessive blood alcohol reading though, whoopsie

Oil leaks- I have an extensive track record of accidentally organising complete shitboxes for my reviews with NZTA (I've been doing this job since 2006 and my last review was the first time I'd ever done the road test procedure with a reviewer, as all the other times there was too much stuff wrong with the cars to drive them) Anyway the first time I got reviewed it was an s13 that had a really bad oil leak at the rear main seal, like put it on the hoist and there was a 100mm puddle under the car I failed it because I figured it was pretty hazardous to motorcyclists and I'd better be thorough because nzta man was there... the reviewer marked me down because legally there was no rule I could fail it for that And that's my sharn about that

I had a read and cant find any exclusion for that so I'd say yes it does include those parts in the 100mm minimum

Wof emissions requirements https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-emissions Cert emission requirements (note these are only applied when an engine swap is certified or a scratch built vehicle is certified- a vehicle with it's original engine , even if modified, just has to comply with the wof virm) https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Gas_Emissions.pdf

What about a custom made vvti solenoid with a bigger piston, instead of making heaps of oil pressure?

Got wheels powdercoated, 235/60/15 front, 245/60/15 rear. Looks ridiculous now, lowering is required sooner than later. I think its actually got lifted springs in the front, they have eibach branding on them and its higher than other stock ones I've seen pics of I might go up a tyre size all round, if it doesnt rub when slammed

In some cases in the land of freedom, that's the repair, lol I have a customer with a first gen camaro that didnt quite look right, he had it blasted and it had double rear panels, the original rusty ones were still there

Ecom on pertol? No. Unsurprisingly. Checked its fuel consumption just as a matter of interest pre mods- 15.9L/100 around town and a bit of motorway Went to rotorua today with cruise control set at 100 most of the time, 14.35L/100 It came with a set of headers, so I'll put those on, should try a new thermostat because it seems to run a bit cool, and I should probably fit an electric fan as the engine driven viscous one takes a while to 'unlock' when it's cold Stay tuned for riveting updates on the subject

Theres a form we fill out that they take to vtnz/vinz Usually check the ID of the vehicle first and if theres any obvious issues tell the owner to go sort that out before the cert goes any further I've only ever had one dodgy one come back with the correct paperwork. The rest have dissapeared or NZTA has got involved I spoke to a cop about it once, he said if its had all the original identifiers removed, it is very unlikely that they would ever be able to return it to its rightful owner

Yeah has to be braided if its inside the car. Use ptfe braided hose if it's going inside the car, unless you like the stench of fuel in the car 24-7 , the rubber braided hose leaches out fuel smells

Have had a few really dodgy ones over the years, a "mitsubishi lancer 1500cc" that had "been converted to a makkinen evo replica" And a "V6 commodore with a LS swap" that had really low kms and lots of weird rust almost like it had been hidden in a damp shed for 10 years and you could see where the SS stickers on the doors were and the engine number had been attacked with a chisel and the date tag on the belts didnt match the year on the rego and the vin tag under the glass had heaps of weird scratches on it Or the VE commodore that had a different vin on the bit under the carpet on the floor to under the glass and in the engine bay because whoever the crackhead that stole it didnt realise there was a chassis number in the floor

A certifier has to send it to a TSDA to sort out any discrepancies in the ID of the vehicle. With old stuff it can be tricky because a lot dont have a stamped in number so swapping tags is very hard to pick up unless there is a difference in the body, ie if someone put VK commodore plates on a VH you'd notice because the body is different. Ive had quite a few cars that have never come back after being asked to sort out ID issues but most of them have been cars where it's been obvious, ie the stamped in number in the firewall had been cut out and another one welded in The last old car I had with chassis number problems, was one that the owner had lost the tag when it got painted, i failed it, next time i saw it hed "found the number under some bog" but had obviously got a punch set and diy'd the number into the front panel, he painted the front so it looked semi legit but forgot about the back side and the primer and paint had cracked where hed punched the numbers in It went to a TSDA to get a new vin, a bit of paperwork and a month or so of waiting and it got a new vin number on a proper tag

Relevant VIRM page for anyone interested https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-identification/vin-and-chassis-number

95% of the time it will never get picked up. Lvv certifiers have been told to look for it specifically, it's in the wof virm but I'd say most wof inspectors wouldn't fail until theres a training update and then there will be a million cars that fail all of a sudden I got a bollocking from someone at NZTA once for looking at a vehicle that didnt have a vin number on it because it had been removed and lost when it was painted, Not even a proper cert inspection, it was a pre check

Its risky if you ask me. A 2 year rebuild on a car could mean a bunch of different employees come and go, things go missing, inspection sites lose their authority and throw everything away, etc I find, in practice, nobody knows about this requirement, removes tags for paint, then come in for cert with them re attached with new rivets and new engine bay paint Then we have to send them to vinz or vtnz to confirm that the id tag matches the car . Sometimes they return with a letter from the TSDA saying yep its sweet, some come back with a new 17 digit vin number attached No special rivets, it's pretty obvious when the tag has been removed for paint and refitted

Correct procedure is to take it to a vtnz or vinz that deals with re registering cars, tell them what you are doing, they will remove the tag, and store it while it's being painted then refit when it's done.