cletus

This or print it out and keep a copy in the glovebox is a good idea to solve the no internet problem

Pretty hard to know until you fit it really. I've done 3 or 4 of those kits in Subaru's and all have had problems, mostly with the sway bars hitting the steering or binding at extremes of suspension travel

Machinery house has big industrial caster wheels, cant remember how much exactly but they were the cheapest big ones I could find . And they have brakes

Try www.lextreme.com Theres a bit of info on there

Sweet! The best thing about an import is it is far less likely to have had any dickfingers touching it

I had a mate years ago who came up with a way of making a box of electronic tricks to operate one of those transmissions. As far as I can remember you just need to apply the right power to the right solenoid in the right combination to get the gear you want That would be manual control though I ended up figuring how to wire up the ecu to do it , was a 1uz conversion into a nissan

Yeah I had a 500 holley 2bbl on a car I had a while ago and it sucked, the good thing is they are quite sought after for probably speedway like you say so I was able to sell it and get a 4bbl 500 new for only slightly more What do you rev it to? I seem to remember an article on them in a magazine years ago that mentioned something about 250s having a bore/stroke/rod length combo that didnt like high rpm

You can use a too big carb and it might go ok at high rpm but it will be costing efficiency for normal driving IMO it is better to size the carb for how you do 95% of your driving. Ie if you spend 95% of the time tootling around town /at the speed limit then theres no point putting a race spec carb on that doesnt work well at low air speed situations The 318 in my vg has a 500cfm carb on it and runs exactly the same 1/4 times as one I had 20+ years ago that had a bigger cam , single plane manifold and a 650dp And it runs much more efficiently

For blue or green? Will be interesting to see how it goes! Have you got some different carb jets?

Got tyres swapped back onto the original wheels, rolled the guard lips , removed the bed, waterblasted a bunch of pukekohe off the chassis , notch tomorrow I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was, everything came off without a fight

Sweet! Looks like a tidy one. XCs in particular seemed to be bad for rust, I heard a barry yarn decades ago about there being a worldwide bad run of steel about that era which seems to line up with all the cars of that time being more susceptible to tin worm Pretty cool that you've kept it so long.

Notch kit ready to fit I drew it on some cardboard and got it laser cut from 4mm and the top and bottom folded If my measurements are right it should fit under the tray floor with 1x tray crossmember removed , retains 100mm chassis rail height, and 40mm suspension travel before it contacts the bump stops so it meets all the cert minimum requirements The outers are drilled for plug welds and the inners have a big fish mouth to help the transition from floppy channel chassis to box. I did those bits myself cause I figured it was easier than trying to explain to the laser cutting guy what I wanted

Yeah that green is nice, it's going to look good

Some snow tyres are legal but they have a different tread minimum. They are garbage to drive on though. Heaps of tread squirm so they always have some 'slip' when braking/accelerating/cornering. Driving something powerful on snow tyres is lol

Might be an easy option for your tyre issue https://www.staparts.co.nz/View-A-Product?id=25759&Productid=Tyre 13 18570R13 Vitour Galaxy R1 86T white side wall 10mm

That sounds like a scary story you tell at a campfire with a torch under your chin

You cant blame the oil, I've seen you shift gears lol

From memory one of them is not compatible /not ideal with bronze or brass, that might be it?

Suspension partially done, 2" drop spindles, 3" lower springs in the front , and diff put on top of the springs in the back. I drew up a notch and got that laser cut, that's ready to pick up this week so next job is to whip the tray off and glue the notch in and make some shock mounts One of the front shocks fell apart when I took it out , that explains the rattle in the front suspension I'm not sure if the wheels will stay, one has started rusting already and its probably going to rub once the front bumpstops get a trim and the rear has some travel. So I'll probably put the stock wheels back on And waiting for some new front shocks I ordered a couple of weeks ago but I think covid has slowed that down

Sounds like the perfect woman for you

That's probably something that will depend on a few things Think of it this way if it's easily contactable ie someone getting in or out of the vehicle or leaning against it could burn themselves then it needs heat shielding. If its 8 feet in the air and you need a ladder to burn yourself then you wont need to worry

Theres some info in the engine and driveline chapter of the CCM And the rest is in the exhaust noise standard https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf Basically if its behind the cab, mounted properly, and has heat shielding around it where passengers/driver could possibly contact it then it will be ok

He wasn't a bad guy really. I got on with him fine He lost his position at nzta due to an excessive blood alcohol reading though, whoopsie

Oil leaks- I have an extensive track record of accidentally organising complete shitboxes for my reviews with NZTA (I've been doing this job since 2006 and my last review was the first time I'd ever done the road test procedure with a reviewer, as all the other times there was too much stuff wrong with the cars to drive them) Anyway the first time I got reviewed it was an s13 that had a really bad oil leak at the rear main seal, like put it on the hoist and there was a 100mm puddle under the car I failed it because I figured it was pretty hazardous to motorcyclists and I'd better be thorough because nzta man was there... the reviewer marked me down because legally there was no rule I could fail it for that And that's my sharn about that

I had a read and cant find any exclusion for that so I'd say yes it does include those parts in the 100mm minimum