cletus

i think he got the green light, but then got sick or something not sure if hes into it yet, just messaged him

There is a new guy- Jody Thompson He's a good sort

Bulkhead fitting ? https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/hansen-tank-fitting-male/p/159364?store=26&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA2pyuBhBKEiwApLaIO3ylA2TZp5aZN_0GjGP7HZyi9tBLyo3FJdkqQQZsAr4Lq32JKvCY0hoCFzMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Unfortunately that would really cock over the geometry, cause bump steer and less than ideal camber curve

I dunno why but tyres in the US seem to suffer from perishing /dry rot worse than other places? Maybe in non rainy areas they keep the cars outside more

O S Nats are on in March, there's a cruise to a museum in Cambridge that's worth checking out

whatever you do, make sure the bags can be inflated, with the wheels at full droop, without the sensor going to max travel i think ive had 3 different cars break the arms off the first time they go on the hoist... nice work on the truck!

If you're looking at that pic as a bit of a how-to, the shocks are too far inboard as well, and won't be doing much

Something like this You need 2 spacers per side so that the bolts aren't getting bent You will need to limit travel in the up direction to stop the joint binding the other way, this will likely mean you won't have to cut of the top arm for bag clearance, as it probably won't go that far

And on that age of truck, you can remove the front inner guards. Been there done that though and it's a cunt of an idea, mud, water, dirt and rocks get everywhere

Can do pie cut if it's tig welded, NDT, and has a fish plate over the cut Other options - find a ball joint that is flat/not angled the wrong way for your application Or a pair of tapered spacers to angle the balljoint. Have had a couple of people do this to correct balljoint angle

Is a complete new long block available from suzuki? You would think a small 3 cyl engine from a current? model would be cost effective to buy but probably not

I had a escort with a modified 1600 a long time ago, that had a 2" pipe and a couple of resonator type mufflers, it was quite raspy I then put that motor in a mark 2 cortina and 2.5" exhaust with a single triple pass muffler before the diff, it was a deeper sound but from memory it sounded quite good

This one had a legit (from memory) label but the top loop was less than 3mm thick , so I'm picking in an accident it would probably cut the belt

They could be acceptable if nzta recognizes CCC as an acceptable standard for seat belts There are many belts made in China which have standard markings on them which are acceptable HOWEVER china is notorious for just putting a label with a safety standard on whatever the fuck they feel like. Sometimes the standard is not even relevant to the part, ie they will put an 'e' number relating to lights on a seat belt. There's a note in the virm about one particular brand which has the label but the top loop will fail in an accident , they are not allowed. But if its like anything else made in China, bur Chuang Zhang seat belt is no longer allowed so they just change the name to super lucky golden horse seat belt safety co and away they go again I wouldn't trust them Can you take a pic of the top loop?

Technically, requires cert due to capacity increase, regardless of power increase

As others have mentioned First thing is to figure out 1. how much you can spend 2. How much can you do yourself 3. how fast you want it to go and what do you want to achieve Most worthwhile swaps are going to need a gearbox/brakes/suspension/diff upgrade which is where the $$ required starts stacking up If you can't do much yourself that also will get very expensive quickly This may dictate what you end up doing If he's just starting out and learning how to work on cars then it's probably better to start with an easier bolt in swap, as mentioned a 1256 with some mods to liven it up a bit, that doesn't need gearbox/brake/diff upgrades

A RUNAMUCK build thread update? Is rain falling upwards? Have pigs taken to the sky? I'm actually abit fizzed to see progress on this

Ages ago someone gave me some mopar super stock springs which are meant to be pretty good for these things, I never really thought much about using them though because they are a bit wierd, they are different side to side with different shape and length leaves in the pack, apparently to counter the torque effect I thought I'd try them so put them in The leaves are considerably thicker (7.5mm vs 6mm originally)and the front eye bolt is bigger, plus they have a bigger arch so I knew it would raise it a bit, so I put them in and took it around the block. It is definitely stiffer, but not unpleasant, the height is now within 5mm per side, but looks dumb so I pulled them back out to get reset 50mm lower

Springs So after a couple of drag meets I'd noticed the right side was sagging a little bit, it was about 15mm lower. I'd always known the rear suspension would need a bit of help and I think the spring has had a bit of a tweak from being shaped like Steven hawkings spine The pinion snubber has been working hard as well, it's actually deformed the body side, and the witness marks show the pinion snubber bump stop has been squashed to the point the bracket has hit the floor. I think this was probably at Hampton downs as where I was doing skids there was a bump that you can hit which unloads the tyres to get it spinning At os drags I'd put a camera under its bum to see what's happening and it was quite interesting The spring gets quite twisted and the left rear tyre gets squashed a lot more than the right side due to the diff wanting to rotate The car always feels quite flat though . The VG used to do the opposite, it would squat considerably on the drivers side Perhaps it's because the fatty driving it is in the right place for ballast haha

This is one of the things that makes a club great

I can't see a problem with doing that, but you would want to discuss it with your certifier. In my opinion a good way to do it would be to do a design approval, that way if it's approved , you can give the approval to your certifier and they should be able to pass it if it's done correctly The only reason I suggest that is what you propose is not in the manual and it could be classed as a custom chassis rail , which then has to meet CCM reqs/ be 75x50x3, but that would make no sense in your application There's not much in the CCM relating to monocoque vehicles and chassis mods

New springs that are a bit stiffer to cope with less travel, some good shocks and maybe some clever trimming of the bumpstop might get it to a point where it looks the same but drives much better Is it 2wd or 4wd?

Usually just checked with them fitted. Belltech usually are ok but I've never seen any on a later model one like yours, which has a bolt in bearing unit I think? I'd be making sure you really want spindles, as they are quite pricey, plus cert, plus bump steer check, plus they can open up a can of worms as far as tyre clearance etc I have had customers fit drop spindles because they wanted a 50mm drop but it ends up with a whole new set of problems, like the tyres can now go 50mm further up so rub on big bumps, or the spindles change the track slightly so the tyres stick out, need geometry correction to pass bump steer check, rims rub on suspension arms , bla bla bla Some of the earlier trucks are actually better off with just a spring drop if you don't want it slammed as it gets the geometry better ie the control arms are flatter

Yes. even pre approved complete front ends (heidts, rods by Reid etc) all have to have a bumpsteer check done you'd be surprised how many fail