cletus

If its a single skin, thru the rad support or the panels forward of the strut mounts then probably OK for cert What car?

Neat. I like the kind of rugged look. Height and wheels are good too

I have a video somewhere of one of those kits It didn't work very well, but also the cotton reel shaped spacers that attach the caliper are too long and they flex

Have seen someone use an oem rear caliper off some sort of car with handbrake mechanism built in as a handbrake caliper They just sealed up the brake hose port and filled it with brake fluid and used the mechanical handbrake part

I'm not a mustang expert, so don't know if it's what your car would have had, but it was reasonably common amongst American manufacturers of that era, ( when there was still boosted/non boosted/disc/drum options ) to have the same pedal ratio , but have a offset crank cantilever to correct the ratio for the booster There are many aftermarket manufacturers that make similar things now

A Repair certifier is who you are after. They have to inspect the repairs that have been done and if they are OK, will issue a repair cert for when it goes thru re vin

*ducks and runs away to avoid being hit by a 4age camshaft*

I think he's in a different country so might not matter But yeah if that was in nz there would be many problems. Regardless of country though, putting a front steer rack behind the crossmember will make the steering go the wrong way

Could you set up something in the ecu to make the engine slow suddenly when the clutch is used ie to change gears? Maybe like those DSG vw things that fart at gear shifts Or a truck that uses the Jake brake between shifts I dunno how you would slow it down quickly though, heaps of timing advance to make the combustion happen sooner and try to send the piston back down the hole?/broken ring lands

I got one from either trademe or aliexpress, I'll have a look next time I'm near my tool box. It wasn't very expensive and it bluetooths to my phone. I downloaded 'car scanner' for free and it worked mint , found and fixed a cam angle sensor fault, and clears codes etc

Can also add to the list of "probably slowed the overheating but did not stop it" Heater core auxiliary cooler, this showed an 18degree difference in hose temps between hot and cold side Removal of intercooler. Side note at idle there is a warm breeze of 54 degrees coming out of the turbo

Still gets hot with the hood up, I haven't removed it. Driving around it's not too bad, it's more an idling and not moving issue Hadn't really considered an EWP yet

I think I found the same 1998 spec website, haha Thanks. Its quite neat that the fan unbolts from the rest of the shroud

Yeah, it's a new auto meter gauge, and it boils over at the temp you would expect

Do you know how thick the fan is at the motor? That's the reason I haven't fitted a big electric fan, the rad is fairly close to the water pump pulley

No, it didn't have the Shelby drop done. all the cars I've checked for bump steer with the Shelby drop done, have had worse toe change than factory Plus the ball joint bind issue being made even worse. usual fix is to go back to stock

Nah it doesn't make boost at idle, I think it's just general hotness/ everything gets heat soaked that makes the pipes warm

Actually The radiator I have is a replacement for a landcruiser of some sort so that might be an option that would allow me to use all the stuff I've had made for this one , would need the bottom hose outlet moving but otherwise would be a bolt in

Pretty cool you have had it so long, good story behind it too

Sprint RE for the engine rebuild?

Thanks! The air coming out the back of the rad is quite warm so I think it is working, you can feel when the thermostat opens , the wind in the engine bay gets warm all of a sudden One thing I found interesting when I was mucking around with it on Sunday, is how warm the turbo side of the intercooler gets even at idle, I guess the intake side gets hot because it's attached to the exhaust and that just heat soaks everything. The other side is cold. So the fan must be working sort of well, but that won't be helping the coolant temp issue if there's warm air coming out the back of the intercooler and through the radiator I definitely think a copper/brass rad would be better but I don't know who would be able to make one these days and it would probably cost a million dollars

Looks real good at that height, much better! One thing to look out for on mustangs/falcons with that type of front suspension, aftermarket upper ball joints often dont have as much travel as the original ones and the ball joint pin fouls the body of the ball joint at full/near full compression. In extreme cases this can snap the pin off This is from a 68 I looked at a while back, you can see the dent where the pin has been hitting the body and made a dent

Top work. I especially like the attention to detail underneath, so clean

Eeeeeh...... bit of a grey area. If done neatly and there's a boot over it, i doubt anybody would notice But technically yes it would

Depends what you want, if you get coilovers, will need cert, and they have to be done a specific way If you don't want to muck around with coilovers , someone like Autolign could whip the tops off and convert them to a replaceable insert I would bet