cletus

Nope as long as it meets the interior impact requirements you can do what you want if it's just a roll bar. It would only become more important to check it if it forms part of the structure, like if the upper 4 link bar mounts were incorporated into it, or you mounted your seat belts off the roll bar

There isn't anything I can find about 4 link brackets, only that part you mentioned about 5mm on a shock mount but that is for a specific way of mounting It's probably like engine mounts, there isn't a spec for what it should be because the design and application is just as important as the material spec As a rule of thumb though, I'd suggest 3-5mm would be OK for 99% of cert stuff

Correct. Unless there are belts attached to the roll bar, it could be made out of 25mm exhaust tube, as for lvv cert, the only concern with roll bars is interior impact ie making sure you don't damage yourself on a sharp bar bracket or something Adding gussets will be no problem

Yea the coil or the box makes a bit of noise it's more noticeable at lower rpm The vg is the same. At least I know when there's no spark haha

Put sound deadner stuff in. I bought way too much, I ended up not doing 100% coverage as I read on the internet it doesn't achieve much more plus it sucked so I got a bit lazy. Plus it's fucking heavy so I didn't want to put too much in. These are my excuses anyway. Mounted some gauges Did some wiring. Engine side is now done. Started mucking around with the original loom and got some stuff to work so that's good, because 2018 clint was a bit of a dick and just ripped into it without noting what went where so there's a few mystery wires. Doesn't look too hard to figure out though

I'll double check on Tuesday when I've got the book in front of me but I'm 99% sure there isn't a minimum size for link brackets

2 bolts to remove the front pipe off the factory manifold? Might make a small difference not breathing through a straw sized exhaust haha (It's the bogan in me from attending winter street meets in the 90s with v8s dropping their exhaust to run 15s)

I did some instant expert googling last night on the subject as it is quite interesting, and I've been down a few internet rabbit holes before on different drag tyre types It seems the consensus is a bit of spin is preferred with a bias ply tyre and the amount of spin can be fine tuned with pressures, if you prefer best times over consistency If you want to be consistent, then a 'dead hook' ie no spin is better but might be slower due to bog etc Drag radials are a different story again Read some interesting discussion on clutch release controls as well to tune the amount of clutch slip @RUNAMUCK I believe the blue rinse bullet is equipped with m+h dot bias ply drag tyres?

I imagine in your case it's quite a balancing act getting the tyres to slip the right amount to keep the engine in the right rpm range If the tyres grip 100% then the clutch has to slip otherwise it will bog, or something breaks Are you aiming to do the absolute best time you can, or do you want to get more consistency for DYO racing?

2007 Axela turbo Approx 280mm dia solid disc About 40mm clearance to an 18" rim Approx 175 from hub center to ribbed part of caliper Cable is in a different position to the atenza ones I posted earlier

Another thing to think of is how much clearance to the chassis or body there is in that position Have seen quite a few where the caliper would foul on the body with suspension travel And one recently where the caliper was mounted really close to the coilover brackets. Which was OK with new brake pads, but with a bit of wear the body of the caliper would have hit the bracket

Neat looking car. I like the no flares, clean and simple appearance

So if it's a factory 7/8/9/10 seater or whatever, and doesn't have a cert- can remove seats no problem. No cert required If it's a van that has had seats fitted, and certified, it has to match the cert- so if you remove some of the certified seats- would need another plate made plus certifiers time. Probably $100-150 if you remove All of the certified seats- certifier removes plate and notifies lvvta who return it to OE on landata. Usually charge $40 for that. Full re cert would only be if you changed to different seats or mounted the seats in a different way for some reason

Buy one with seats already fitted and remove them. Getting seats fitted and certed can be $$$$ There has been a bit of an excess of vans with unwanted seats since covid for some reason , I've done quite a few where the certed seats have all been removed and the vehicle put back to original or changed to a camper van

2013 mazda atenza, solid disc, roughly 270mm dia , measuring from hub center to biggest part of caliper (for wheel clearance) 165mm On a 19" wheel it has about 65mm clearance from the rim to the caliper Axela might be similar?

The gearbox and mounts etc doesn't need cert if you use all factory parts The trap though, is as soon as you do anything to the brake pedal like fit a manual spec one or modify the pad so there's room for a clutch, that needs cert. However if you put it all together with factory parts, and considered yourself some sort of outlaw or criminal, who could sleep at night knowing they had done an illegal modification, I highly doubt anyone who was not a leading expert on reliant scimitars would ever know.

Vw golf ? They have a cable handbrake. Might be a bit small for what you need Otherwise you might be able to find something common on rockauto that's easily available new?

Try a cigar? could you set it up so your launch rpm limit is switched off the clutch? So clutch in =7k clutch out= 9.5k for example (I assume you have already got some sort of launch rpm limit)

Trans cooler mounted, shifter cable set up. Underneath looks pretty busy now but there's no other way of getting everything to work so meh. Ordered some sound deadner stuff for the floor before carpet goes in

Is that the adjustable suspension that is worn?

There's not a lot in the LVVTA standard on them, and I've only done 2 cars that have them retrofitted that I can remember so I'm not knowledgeable on how to set them up. One guy brewed his own setup but he's a bit of an electronics whiz so came up with his own load switch arrangement the other one I haven't finished yet but that was a unit designed for the job so I think it has the load sensor built in

it's good, gives the electricity a straighter shot when the cables are tight, straight and short as possible

If you don't want to deal with wiring you might be able to convince someone on here to do a really simplified loom for you for minimal cost? I've always liked the idea of a late model efi engine in an older car as a daily, but not big hp turbo, just something that runs efficiently and makes more power than stock , and put it in something like an escort van.

Battery mounted in a box, battery switch and fuel pump relay mounted inside an insulated box, main power wire to starter done, fuel pump wired up

I'd suggest using some plain black hose of some sort. There's probably nothing wrong with using garden hose and it will likely work fine but it might be the sort of thing that draws attention from someone who might be a bit fussy