cletus

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ystems.pdf 2.3 (27) is the only part that deals with fitting abs, however it only mentions scratchbuilt vehicles. what sort of car are you doing this to? I would suggest getting in touch with Justin at lvvta tech@lvvta.org.nz i cant see why you couldnt do this, if done properly. it is possible to cert brake upgrades on a car factory equipped with abs. 12mm alloy should be fine, how much of a step will be machined into them for clearance?/is that what the grey lines are?

sounds ok , as long as the a arm mount is as strong or stronger than original

shit yes that is a well proportioned motorcycle, sir

what were the warnings the cop gave you? am quite liking sigma wagoons

looking good mate!

yes can cert different wheel sizes, need to do paperwork and brake tests for each set of wheels. never been asked to do it, would cost extra though.

... Do they really think these rules are going to stop the halfwits driving their pieces of shit round on cut bump stops. probably not. my personal opinion is some of these rules are an effort by LVVTA to keep a professional image in the eyes of the govt, as well as improving road safety. Remember the rumors a while ago about adjustable platforms being banned? the camber thing is a result of that. there was some drama about x amount of fatal accidents involving cars with adjustable platform suspension (most of which werent certified) and the AA/someone wanted them banned, that was brought up at a training session, and we were asked our opinion on them. the other "improvement" to the rules mentioned was a limit on spring rates for road use which will probably come later. thats actually how it alway has been, one of the first boxes on the suspension check sheet says something along the lines of 'no excessive wheel alignment angles'. problem with that is each certifier has a different idea on whats excessive. i used to work off the outside of the tread still touched the ground and it drove safe and didnt look stupid, then it was ok. the reasoning for the authority card deal is generally the cars are motorsport vehicles that have a legitimate reason to be a bit more extreme, and dont get driven by flatpeakers full of woodstocks at 3 in the morning. Not going to be an issue after cert, too hard to expect cops to know what the specs are or how to measure it. theres no mention of it on the plate either so theres nothing to stop someone cranking the camber back in afterwards. however in the event of an accident, LVVTA can pull out the file and show photos and a wheel alignment report to say it was fine and legal when it was certed- ASS COVERED, OWNERS FAULT.

As it stands at the moment- if thats the factory specs, then its no more than half a degree over that, regardless of height. that half a degree IS the allowance. i checked an mx5 last week at around that height you mentioned and it was a fair bit over, im not sure how its going to go cause the adjusters were maxed out. i can see some extra adjustment from slotted mounting holes may be a necessary option for some cars

yes if its already certed, and its all the same(not any lower etc) you dont need to worry about it.

you are correct sir. in theory that would be do- able however then you would lose any adjustability as far as getting the camber correct and most cars get a fair amount of caster increase from lowering the car anyway, usually more than the spec on the sheet. last thing we need is someone deciding that caster should be within half a degree of what the sheet says, that would royally fuck things up

2.43 is the bit that deals with blowers poking out bonnets http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ctions.pdf bear in mind that a lot of "legal" cars you see with blowers hanging out the bonnet, are not really legal.ive had a couple of arguements with people saying im a prick for not certing thier car when" xxx`s car has a cert and thier blower sticks out way more than mine" they may have a cert plate but what most guys do is take scoops/spacers/air filters off for cert then as soon as the plate goes on the tall stuff all gets put back on. So now when we do a cert on a car with anything hanging out the bonnet, the protrusion has to be measured at its highest point and that gets recorded on the cert plate.

yes- you were using the east tamaki asphalt dyno too? haha i bought my ignition and dizzy from C+M, Carl is a good bloke. ive done everything myself on this engine apart from machining work and getting the carb modified. more boost will happen- but probably have to do something with the driveline soon as i think its living on borrowed time as is, im surprised nothing has broken yet

went to drags at meremere today first run, scary, no traction cold track, 14.something second run a bit better, a pigeon flew thru the traps before i got there so i have an 8 second timeslip for that one third, gave it more death in the burnout to get some temp in the tyres. that worked, no more traction issues. 12.7@107mph fourth run was best of the day 12.66@108mph fifth run got knocked out of dyo round one, 12.8 on a 12.6 dial in. didnt really care as was stoked to get in the 12s

Hi Sheepers, Ive found you some merchandise for your new purchase, a nice sticker to put on your bumper or window, and a comfortable t- shirt to wear so that everyone can know what a great choice you have made in powerplants. Did you know, Valiant 6 cylinders are used in Racing Cars? There are several b-grade stock cars equipped with the VERY SAME engine you have.

should have a standard marking on the lens ADR/SAE/DOT etc

you can take the car to the TSDA (vin man) and they can allocate a new vin number to the vehicle without doing the actual re reg inspection, that way you will have a vin for the repair cert man

ling ling if you are going to attack your panels with a grinder, use a paint stripping wheel rather than a grinding disc. panel steel is thin, it doesnt take much with a grinder wheel to go thru the steel. and wear safety goggles, the bits that fly off hurt

a manufacturers tyre size recommendation trumps the lvvta size chart thing ie if a manufacturer says on a proper size chart, that a specific brand and model of tyre in 195/50/15 can go on a 8'' rim then thats fine, if we supply a copy of the chart. we used to be able to supply a letter from a reputable tyre fitter, but obviously everyone just abused that and got thier mate at the tyre shop to say a 145 was sweet on a 10 inch rim that tyre size chart, lvvta got a bunch of lists of manufacturers minimum and maximum tyre sizes and chose the most stretched/balloonspec fitments, and stuck them on the list. not all tyre sizes are on there. ive tried to find on the interweb some different brands of tyres that have manufacturer specs saying they can go on wider rims- mostly for 15x8 rims cause thats a problem, tyre shops sell them and fit 195/50/15 which IMO fits fine and is perfectly safe, and can actually fit under a car that the wheels are designed for- but i havnt been able to find fuck all.I am going to look at a car tomorrow with some 205/something/15s hankooks which are designed to go on an 8'' rim apparently.

thats not how i read it, thats only a small part of it. that refers to making sure its ok when its over manufacturer spec, but within the half-degree-over spec. the only time it mentions being able to go outside this half degree over limit is when its a legit motorsport vehicle with an authority card you could go here http://lvvta.proboards.com/index.cgi?bo ... thread=240 to clarify that, the guys answering the questions on the forum are the technical advisors at lvvta. it would be nice if i was incorrect and you could go over that limit, but i cant see that happening as it would be back to how it was before.......

its got 64 jets primary, 84 secondary, 6.5 power valve. i tried a 3.5 pv but it got a lean half throttle spit with that in.

the main thing was boost referencing the power valve, it now has an external fitting that takes boost/vac from the carb baseplate, and the carb hat. i didnt think it would make much of a difference but the power valve opens much sooner now, can tell by watching the af meter you can see it drop with light throttle application the boosters have been changed to what look like holley ones, no more dribbly fuel, it comes out in a fine mist. and there are modifications to the emulsion holes and power valve channels. thats all i can remember seeing in there....... i put some holley pump squirters on it as well im real pleased with how it runs now.

its quite good, the extra boost makes a difference. i like to get the most out of it at each stage before just winding in 1 million boosts, hence only going up 3psi for now idle afr about 13.0 light open road cruise 14.5 wot 11.2 it has a boost referenced power valve now, which doesnt take much throttle to open it.

found some pics of underneath.....before it got covered in oil/road shit/rubber etc oh and its got some wide steels now, still got other wheels so i can swap when it suits and inside, got some new gauges, originally had an auto meter sport comp tacho i bought off trade me, which turned out to be a fake china copy. Got carb back as well. Runs nice now, upped boost to 8psi for now.

http://www.compturbo.com/spotlights/oil_less no oil feed needed on these

i have heard the standard bunch of bananas manifold is quite restrictive, is that correct? i like this shape commo, i have a vs wagon its a bit of a beater, but i like it