cletus

lifting 15mm like you said is how to do it, also i usually recommend 4 10mm holes 40-50mm up, plug weld to original tube. must be TIG welded and NDT (crack tested) (when you buy BC coilovers for bmws/some toyotas the instructions say to weld to the cast hub. not legal here.)

minimum sizes 1.2mm electro galv steel 1.6 allloy 1.0 if its stainless. yep. if you are bolting it thru a panel steel floor then use some big washers on the top side of the floor, the book suggests 50x60 washers. often if you buy a universal loop kit you can use some of the bits trimmed off to use as washers for the top of the floor. i have no idea. its probably in the road code

id replace the left cylinder as well if you are goin to do new shoes it might not be leaking now but you can bet your left nut it will start leaking onto your new shoes just to piss you off also make sure cylinders are the same size if youve been buying parts seperatly

came back from coromandel today this way. took about an hour from miranda to clevedon. would imagine greenlane- clevedon via maraetai would be roughly 60min at O/S speeds

im there! i lived in maraetai for a long time, spent a lot of time on those roads.....

virgin conversion unit

bums, keen as for a cruise out there, fathers day drags on though, already spent too much getting ready for that to miss it.......

weekend cruise to kaiawa?- theres a good fish n chips place there and interesting road to get there.

sorry dont have any video of it. ive recently changed the muffler (was a 50 series flowmaster) cause it was a bit quiet/restrictive on boost, its all straight thru 3'' now and its not very loud, the turbo does shut it up a bit. but yes, definetly still sounds like a v8, cheers KY

Full cage (in a unibody type car) needs authority card to run on the road, anything covered on the authority card does not need to be certified, its covered by the card. however most cars serious enough to need a full cage need certs for other things which auth card cant cover, ie adj susp, engine & brake mods etc...... Half cages ie all the bars behind the drivers seat back dont need auth card or certification, cant have rear seats though.

sounds like its running rich? too much fuel pressure? airflow meter? wrong injectors etc

if its a factory tank with a mod filler so it fills in the boot, it would need the spill ring and seal off the boot

spill ring is basically a 'cup' around the filler with a drain to catch any overflow and direct it outside the veehickle so you dont end up with fuel in the boot. sorry cant find a pic at the moment. the funniest one ive seen was a small ali frypan from briscoes, with a thread tapped in it for the drain. if the tank is mounted inside the boot area and its not factory, it needs to be sealed off from passenger compartment. you can hook it up to the factory filler. if its the factory tank in the boot then it doesnt need to be any better sealed than original.

if you mount a fuel tank in the boot you can fill it straight into the tank but you will need to put a spill ring with a drain to the outside on the filler, and the tank vent needs a rollover valve and to vent outside the car. plastic tanks are ok, no expiry date as far as i know. rear bulkhead will need to be fairly well sealed off as well so no fumes get in the passenger compartment

that must have been somewhat alarming. would have been a decent splosion to remove both rocker covers like that. shouldnt cause too much damage inside the engine though? i had a similar experience welding up a holed sump......... blew the oil filler cap miles away and bent the sides of the rocker covers out, otherwise was sweet. did bang my noggin on x member and floor trying to get away as i was under the car at the time

depends on what it is. but it is usually fairly well discussed among certifiers and/or the TAC (technical advisory commitee), and industry experts. Basically the govt/NZTA would prefer us to not mess around with cars at all. The LVVTA works as a kind of mediator between the govt and us, developing rules and guidelines so we can modify cars if its done safely. It may seem like LVVTA is sitting around making rules to make life harder for everyone, but its actually the opposite, they are there to help, as the alternative is to not be able to do anything at all........

camber is another thing discussed at training, a max of 2 degrees camber was suggested. generally the opposite of what a legal car should be it may look cool but if it doesnt drive any good theres no point, you will get sick of it quickly

there currently is no minimum measurement, last training session it was being suggested that there might be one bought in. Bit of a worry, cause there was plenty of certifiers saying 100mm was low enough.......... But as it stands at the moment, it would have to comply with the scrub line rule, ( basically if you get a flat tyre, nothing can hit the road) geometry cant be excessive ie steering arms on silly angles etc no bind in ball joints/tierod ends no tyre rub have enough travel above all its got to be safe to drive, so if its scraping on the road during normal driving then its too low

i had one in a navara. open road/on long trips it would do exactly the same mileage per tank as the 2.0 carb thing it replaced. recommend doing a half decent set of headers if you can instead of logs, mine enjoyed rev limiter on a regular basis thusly equipped. have driven a few with factory manifolds they run out of puff at higher rpm.

have a chat to whoevers going to do the cert for this one...... there are minimum sizes for tube arms but not really for this configuration, there are quite a few arms modified like this for camber adjustment usually the arm is cut off close to the bushed end, a square threaded bung welded into it then a rose/heim joint used for adjustment. any welding has to be tig and crack tested afterwards

only thing in the hobby car manual about custom built stub axles is they need to be individually approved by the lvvta technical advisory commitee as part of the build approval process. i would imagine if they were allowed they would have to be tig welded and crack tested if you are building something that involved you have to submit drawings ect of what you are doing before you start

ive had a look thru the wof book tables for stuff not requiring cert, helper bags are not in there. so im guessing it would need a cert. its probably one of those situations where if you had a hilux with a flatdeck and wear a swannie then youd probably get away with it. if your car is slammed and want a way to raise it up for clearing speed humps etc then you probably going to get picked on

ive often thought about whats going to be a desirable vehicle in the future....cars often have a "cool"period when they are new/current, get to that 15 year old mark where nobody gives a shit about them, they get thrashed/cut up/crashed/scrapped, numbers go down, people start getting nostalgic about them, value goes up again nice car fuel, cool to see an original one

that sort of thing may differ a bit between certifiers, ive certed a couple of escorts where similar things happen to the brace in the tunnel- id trim as little as possible out of it, and if you are bolting the x-member thru panel steel (floor) bolt it to the flat part of the floor close to the tunnel, and on the topside of the floor make reinforcement plates reasonably large that go along the flat part of the floor and up the sides of the tunnel. basic rule of thumb is dont make it any weaker than it was when it was original

my computer is retarded (dial up, oldschool as) cant see pics, are these things you speak of called "frog ribs" google came up with that.....if so, would need cert, you might have to pad them near driver/passenger like you would with a roll cage