cletus

steam roller wheels spent today removing luxury items- power steer was leaking, so put the manual box out of the green one in it, i dont like the v8 booster setup so wont run a booster. if you havent had the pleasure of seeing a chrysler v8 booster , here is one. yuck. theres a push rod off the pedal which isnt straight, which pushes on a pivot bar , which pushes the booster, all on a dumb angle. this is all cause the engine isnt in the middle of the car, its offset to the drivers side, so there isnt enough room.

Looks sweet man!

actually was looking for a wagon when this came up..... would be more family friendly.

chucked some paint in the general direction of the engine today. wheels are off getting widened, the wheels will also be this colour, body satin black.

nissan serena/largo also transverse leefs

oil pressure is what takes up the slack in a hydraulic lifter, so if you have removed them it is possible to push the plunger in by hand. thats why you will quite often hear a rattly lifter when you start a hydraulic cam engine when its been sitting a while, because a valve has been open/lifter on the cam lobe, the lifter bleeds down as the valvespring pushes against it.

if the lifters are visibly concave on the base then they are fucked. what is supposed to happen, is the lifter is flat on the bottom, the cam lobe is ground with a slight angle on it, as the lobe pushes the lifter, the lifter spins in its bore. once stuff wears, the lifter wont spin any more and everything wears faster. had a 302w apart for a noisy lifter a while ago, it had worn thru the bottom of the lifter. all this is why its very important to run in a cam correctly on older v8s

have a look at the valvesprings, make sure one hasnt broken. im sure i have a distant memory of a 302 clevo i worked on years ago that had some weird problems, and we replaced valvesprings to fix them.......

i guess it would legally be a modification, but i doubt anyone would care/notice if done well

some of those mini adjustable cones need shorter shocks as well, they come loose at full droop sometimes

dye penetrant is ok, has to be done by a qualified person, i cant remember off the top of my head what the qualification is

it is. currently you cant even cert struts like that if they are made by a shock manufacturer, let alone modified by someone. somebody must have been having a stevie wonder day

depends on the certifier and thier location/travel time- stuff like that but up here in high-roller auckland, we charge 460 incl gst retail as a basic cert, depending on the mods it goes up from that

not that im aware of, should always be certified though as its considered structural in a monocoque vehicle- in some nissans its common for the driver side pipe to go thru the inner guard right above the chassis rail flange and ive never had a problem with them going thru cert

you are most certainly able to do that, hobby car manual states any modifications to a production front suspension must be tig welded and crack tested. how much are you chopping out?

usually ok if its for a reason ie an intercooler pipe, if its not bigger than it needs to be, if it goes thru a part that doesnt contribute a lot of strength, (ie that part of the inner guard, theres often holes for washer bottles, factory ic pipes on nissans, etc) also it has to be done in a 'tradesmanlike manner', it amazes me how many of these i see that look like they were done with an angry dog or a hammer and chisel

if you do it properly, i cant see why it couldnt be certified- have seen racecars with lower arm mounts slotted, then a heavy washer welded to the x-member when alignment correct so it cant move

you could do something similar for an electronically controlled box as well, they just have solenoids to control fluid flow inside the box, so if you got tricky you could design something that does the same thing electrically. they are actually a bit of a pain in the ass if its something you drive regularly. i certed a car a while ago that had a manual valvebody, the owner didnt know it had one. bigblock chev, low diff gears, histall converter, so a bit hard to tell i said" how do you drive it?" "i just put it in D" "watch this" "oh thats much better"

yep its called a manual valvebody, you can buy them for most of the popular old auto boxes

just read the whole thing, nice effort! looks sweet, especially considering what you started with. one thing to watch out for- the front guard bolts at the top of the front guard arch at that height- be a shame to damage your paint if the tyre catches it and yanks it out

all up to wof issuers discretion apart from bumpstops, if they are modified it needs a cert. however lots of cars still get wofs with mod b/stops because the wof issuer doesnt notice/care they have been modified. as far as travel goes i think the wording in the wof book is "must have adequate travel from unmodified bumpstops when laden"

Nice! What are those seats?

Looks good mate, pretty tuff looking with those wheels and flares! have seen a few cars Grant has done, he does a nice job.

hmm. shouldnt need a password its on www.lvvta.org.nz look for certification threshold schedule

are you talking about the kingsland branch by any chance?