Testament

It depends on the size of the master cylinder bore/size of the calipers. a smaller bore will give more force (pressure) at the calipers for the same foot pressure, but will require more travel. Bigger bore caliper pistons will give more force for the same pressure, but require more travel. So its a balance of MC/caliper areas and brake pedal leverage/driver input force. that said, most people just bung whatever in as far as I can tell.

have you checked the pressure though? flow means nothing if its not at running pressure.

no I mean your car, rather than the donor. is it an EB1 i.e. 1169cc or EB2/EB3 1238cc i.e. what year is it.

yeah, but I mean, initial post asking about EN1 into gen I ....then everyone started talking about B16/D16 etc. etc. no actual advice apart from ask at nzhondas

Dammnit this is supposed to be a Gen I/II civic E-sereies engine thread So all of you stop talking about 4WS preludes and bring-a-ding-ding vtec motors What year is the car exactly? Is it an EB1 or EB2 or EB3 (all are gen I) the EB1 and EB2 have smaller valves and combustion chamber. I doubt it's worth swapping heads with the EN1 with what you are doing. If the motor is an EN1 its 1335cc im pretty sure. I dont know if the gen II came with any other engines. From what I can remember it "should" "just bolt in" but you know how those stories go, so I imagine there might be some mucking about with engine/gearbox mounts a bit. Wagon knuckles and brakes are supposed to fit and be bigger - but I've never ever seen a gen I wagon in NZ. this might be useful http://www26.brinkster.com/drzoom/civichowto.htm also this story is pretty lol http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/features/0704_ht_1974_honda_civic_1200/index.html Also, how are you going to put it on said yuck street fins? are they crazy 4x120mm PCD?

you just been brushing that por15 on? looks like its comes you pretty good from the photos? any brush marks etc irl?

Ghey welder ran out of gas so didnt get welding done. patches prepped up and cleaned up the front footwells of the last bits of sound deadening. definitely starting to contemplate getting a full repsray now. frustrating having put in a heap of work and it doesnt really look like much progress. get some more gas for the welder tomorrow and hopefully glueing in some metal with make me feel more accomplished.

The guys at autoclutch are good aye, and not that expensive. I priced up one for the turbo/supercharged fiat motor last year from memory about $190 for a new pressure plate and $250 to uprate the pressure plate and make a new heavy duty clutch. you just tell them what your using it for/how much power and they will make you a clutch to take it. I know a couple of people who have used them and both were very happy with the result. they usually stick with a full face clutch but of better material etc. and uprated pressure plate so it holds the torque but isn't ridiculously binary in operation.

if you want a clutch - www.clutch.co.nz

Hmm only 4 months since the last update - yeah I've been pretty lame although there were a number of weekends up and down to auckland sorting out the delta and putting that back together. So since then, stripped paint and a ton of bog off the drivers side sill to find more rust to add to the stuff I found when I chipped out the sound deadening, and the stuff in the drivers side wheel well, and the stuff in the corner of the firewall. yeah I love rust. not. Although I must say there is alot of steel in the car, since there is still a car left and I have an actual bucket of rust that I've removed. Cut out almost all of it now and about a third of the way through patching it up now. But then I still have to strip the passenger side sill and fix up a couple of bits of surface rust which i can probably just clean up/por15/bog or something. so will have a fair whack at finishing the patches this weekend.

would stainless steel work? anzor have heaps of that kind of stuff, http://www.anzor.co.nz

the other one to try is just use the starter with the car in 3rd or 4th gear. worked on the 124 one time, but it had only been sitting for about 6 months or so.

true, datsun is budget as 1984 and still points beeeooooo. But ok, points still work so not the end of the world but would definitely help with reducing fouled plugs easy starting etc. etc. as give more powerful spark.

It depends on the engine, most manufacturers changed to electronic distributors in the late 70's so very often there is a factory item from a later model car that you can just swap in along with the associated controller and coil. If not there are some kits to gut a points dist. and put a trigger system inside. But I'm pretty sure they made l20b till around 1980 sometime? so there probably is a factory item off something that is suitable if you can find one.

I'm gonig up on the 14th, but I'll only have room if the delta has a warrant by then, if I have to take the 124 no room for wheels :/

also - sooooo throw away the points and get an electronic distributor, the improvement is very significant.

also, screw the idle enrichment needle right out, and take it off the carb (just be careful not to lose the spring if it has one). I could never get the 124 to idle worth a damn and had some similar fouling issues when I had the original solex carb on it - i took the needle out and found it was bent! heck knows how it happened. Then I put a weber on it off one of my 2L motors and now it goes sweet/idles/starts easy enough.

are the arms anywhere near paralell with the ground at the moment? changing those lengths n a beam axle car will change antisquat/antidive more than your real roll centre (more controlled by panhard rod/ride height) but you need to know all the variables to really work out what your change might do i.e. lengths of all links and location of attachment points on body and on diff. and then because its for the angled top arms (like my 131 also) it makes it even harder as all the info out there is to do with plain 4 link setups. if you are a bit concerned about it you could lengthen the top arm and shorten the bottom arm, this will reduce the relative change. Hmmm I just looked at your pic again and noticed no panhard rod or watts link, is it just not bolted up? or do the angled arms do all the side to side axle location on these lancers?

what carb is it? weber? whats it off originally? you know how to set the idle etc.?

yeah those triangles aren't there as strengtheners - they were hiding more rust/holes ok so dont go too crazy, I hears you, but also specifically what are usually the key areas? join between the firewall and the inner guards/floorpan? strut towers to inner guards etc.

anyone done this to a race car? (UJ? vvega?) Need to do some on the 131 and looking for a few tips of the key places, Im guessing all around the front strut towers and where the guards join the firewall, and around the rear suspension mounting points. and also to fully weld or just intermittent e.g. 25mm weld 50mm gap 25mm weld etc. or whatever for reference

Ghostbeard! you can be a pirate!

Its probably half an hour quicker or something so yeah I can understand coming from hamilton/aucks. but if boes are passing through give me a txt on 0210346449

It's nota taupo thing, theyre in wellytown,orcaland, hams, tga etc. etc. only just opened here about 3 weeks ago - right on the corner of the lakefront near subway kfc etc.

! you know not!??~!?! burgers made of win aye. they cost about $10 though, but I reckon its worth it.