Testament

either you are going to Bosch(ID1000/samesame) 1000ccs with higher fuel pressure or to bosch 2000ccs if you want to stay high impedance. you can find china versions high impedance 1000cc on aliexpress for about $30 each so far they seem ok I think roman has used some? and I also have a set but havent used them. the old indy blue is there at 1600cc but low impedance the only others I know of are the rochester disc style might have something around 1600cc but not sure if they are high impedance or low

Im liking this. big block 20b with a holley ultra dominator and 2 stage nitrous system plz

hmmmmmmm need to finish drag car. but also want to roadtrip. need to find OMG mk2 also

I think machining a new shaft, cutting that one off and welding the new shaft to the arm would be a better and easier option.

rover motors (inc p76) are bad people. sound kinda cool. but bad people

have done a few things on this in the last while. killed myself replacing that donut, changing engine mounts, new brake lines, making driveshaft hoops and making welded on (instead of U bolt to diff) swaybar mounts in a overfull garage during the coldest week of the year Then about a week ago pushed it outside for more room and put it on stands to fix some issues with fitting the new tyres as i had to remove the factory wheel spacers and then some of the bolts were bottoming out so needed to figure out what was stopping what etc. then while it was up I thought I better waterblast all that mud from the dirt track at nats off finally but I found some greeblies I knew had been hiding for some time so ended up getting carried away as per usual

maybe dumb question, but where you are getting loads of paint right into the back/inside of the doors and bootlid and things are you brushing it to get it in there or you have some little nozzle you stick inside the little holes or what?

for more quiet the turbo/chambered/multipass style or baffle type muffler at the rear but you will lose some power as they are more restrictive

one of these before the diff http://www.chase.co.nz/category/107/Chambered-Perforated-Centre-Tube and one of these of similar straight through type after http://www.chase.co.nz/part/1679/0/RD2805

excusing my ignorance but why do you need the adaptor? can you not just run an entire box from a 2wd hilux that had a 1KZ?

got one of the cigweld pro spiderweb and skulls ones because vg is a lovely butterfly seems to work pretty good only naff thing is you have to turn it on/its not always on/senses to turn on. it turns itself off after a while and i need to work out how to adjust that time as i have flashed myself a couple of times because of this. tbh do what putin says

Wear a turbo beanie

which ones did you get for the lotus dave? those with a separate ignitor box? or some other ones?

Cranky they are stealing you trade secrets there Alex?

yeah that style, I thought new ones were available for not much more than that. or you might find them at pickapart

Nah when dave says drivers he means outputs not actual ignitors. Just logic level outputs which requires some bonus wires to get from the chip and doodads to the connector on the mega or microsquirt. Then use coils with built in ignitors eg. Ls coils, mitsi, Subaru etc there are quite a few options. I think Subaru ones from aliexpress are cheapest for a 4cyl setup but ls ones are probably stronger sparking

not sequential. still batch fire fuelling (two batches) and wasted spark ignition

This is the greetest. could have bought it for $800 6 years ago but sanity prevailed and now look where I am. not sure sanity actually prevailed anyway def keen for another geez/come stay if you want to goto horopito I hear there is a VX engine there I should grab one day.

its pretty typical for a tuned N/A engine to run anywhere from 30-40 degrees of advance at WOT depending on the engine cams and compression my supercharged motor is running 22-25 degrees at WOT with 8psi albiet has low compression - I would expect you would be able to at least run that much and likely more than 30 degrees. Id look at what the factory all in advance was and start maybe 5 degrees less than that and creep up to it a degree at a time and see if it keeps getting better and better if you add more timing and it doesn't get better then go back a degree and leave it. of course using 98octane fuel and listening for det etc all the time. I think it's pretty unlikely for that to be an issue running factory all in timing though. if its still getting better and you are feeling game you could keep going but thats where you really need the dyno and a det set to do so in a controlled manner. the big advantage is you can run much more timing in the low load for better fuel economy and throttle response with a mapped ignition vs. what a mechanical only or even a mechanical and vacuum advance system might have given - in these areas you can get more aggressive with the changes and the numbers although you still want to be listening for det and feeling how its running. but you are well right to be cautious - if you are not sure err on the safe side, make small changes and look for the map to be a sensible shape i.e. advance smoothly increasing with rpm and decreasing somewhat with load (map/tps) big jumps from one cell to another is very likely to make it run strangely.

I dont know your engine but for a 10:1 or less compression N/A engine with relatively standard cams I would be surprised if you couldn't run 5 - 10 degrees more timing under load. but you need to research your particular engine first before getting carried away.

in my experience there is about a 75% success rate but it does depend on the engine and what knowledge of it you have as to what the risk is

datalogs, ear, seat of pants and pieces of engine on ground.

When it does work its awesome though

Yeah I had issues with msdroid since version 2.3 I think. Doesn't like the definition files for microsquirt it something whack. Will try to sort that when I get the fiat back on the road