Yowzer

Ok so here's what we do with drum brakes. We don't have a brake roller at work so on light stuff it's purely based on whether it pulls or locks a wheel when it shouldn't. On the heavy stuff that requires a CoF it has to go to VTNZ, which do have a roller. So we take the vehicle for a spin and get the brakes nice and warm. 9/10 times once they're hot, the imbalance is gone.

Carb cleaner works good on it, but I can't say how good it is on plastic

Go triangulated 4 link and do away with the Panhard

Chuck the back end of a HiAce on it and make a limo

Can't make a 85 minute sharn out of something that simple

Ok, so you have 1st gen, 2nd gen, 3rd gen and 4th gen. Ain't that easier?

How the hell did they get the silver / black top names if the silver or black top is meaningless? Sounds like the whole designation is meaningless tbh, and it's nothing more than a construct of Barry's who like to sound like they know what they're talking about

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I'm not an expert on the inner workings of fuel pumps yet so can't offer a lot of help in that regards. If it's not smoking it's likely pretty healthy

Looking forward to seeing results of new pump. They can often make a hell of a difference, because they flog out so gradually you never even realise how crap they get. The old mechanical shit can be absolutely buggered and they'll still run good enough to ignore.

Looks like they gave up halfway through machining it. Must be a heavy sucker

Largely a bit technical, only in more recent years with the introduction of stability control does the traction control bother with steering angle, so it can clamp the brake on the individual wheel. Around a corner your combined front wheel speed will be a touch higher than the rear wheels anyway so you can work it no worries. It's not like you're incorporating individual wheel braking or anything.

It fails due to rust Nah fucked if I know. After seeing how much fun the guys were having with the auditing I was more than happy to not have my wof ticket

Pretty much. A lot is due to corrosion or shit mounting, but you can usually tell when some joker is gonna drag a 2T boat on something that's probably only rated for 750kg. As far as I'm concerned that's not our problem, but apparently a sticker is needed to ensure the blame is on the owner or some shit.

Wof inspectors have the right to fail whatever they feel like actually. Besides, this was the auditor who brought this on. Previously we paid no attention to towbars. Because as you say, there's nothing in the virm. But you try telling the auditor they're wrong.

As long as they have a sticker stating their tow and load ratings to ignore it'll be fine. Workmate fails towbars all the time, it's lols / annoying coz fuck fixing towbars.

Aw ffs why did I think this was this week

If the car itself wasn't EFI to begin with it'll require a recert even if there was an EFI option available from factory

Yeh why not

How's the points / dwell angle?

On MacPherson strut it should raise it by its thickness, or near enough to. On double wishbone it'll be some % based on the ratio of spring perch to arm length or some such nonsense

I vaguely recall the old boy at work saying something along those lines once. /Ling

Electrical noise is one issue, the ecu should have noise suppression but it can still interfere with sensors, the other is current output as usually they're much more lower powered than modern alternators and you can suffer some voltage drop when running all the additional electrics that EFI requires.

I have quite a stack of alternators at work, if I get a chance I'll line them up and get a pic, ya might see one that may fit. They're all buggered in some way or another but at least ya can test fit it then either fix it or cross reference the part number to a new one.