Roman

I love toyodiy as much as the next man but you cant trust a list like that, it's mostly just lumping in Chassis which have an M motor in it. I bet that a GA70, MA70 and JZA70s have different knock sensor part numbers if you looked them up. You might be searching for a while if looking for a knock sensor from an LX76 diesel Mark 2... Trust me I'm the cheapest kernt ever and always the first to hit up toyodiy for something haha... But wont ever mix and match knock sensors, after spending years chasing my tail for engine problems caused by fitting the wrong one. So long as you double check that any of the above models have the same part number on knock sensor, then good to go.

"pretty much every Toyota runs the same knock sensor" no no no no no no no and 10 million more no. You MUST get a 7MGTE knock sensor, or something with exact part number. (So, you probably need the 7MGTE one) And no you cant just loop it off. Toyota knock sensors are filtered to listen out for just a specific frequency that's generated when an engine with that particular bore size / block construction etc has knock. So if you put one on from a different engine it's listening out for the wrong thing. I've gone down this path before, trust me that it will cause you an infinity ball ache if you put the wrong knock sensor on there.

I think that dude's dressed so he doesnt fizz on the driver.

I'm fizzing out of every hole for this

Well, this went well. Straight after nats I pulled the engine mounts out, to see if I could tip the engine a bit to fit the dual injector manifold without hitting the bonnet. Looked like this wasnt going to work, so I shut the garage door. went upstairs and had a drink. *7 weeks go by* It sat like this until Tuesday night, when I decided that I am making a poor life decision by not attending a Taupo trackday in 2 days time. So stayed up till 2am getting it back together, then got a wof 4pm Wednesday and hit the road. My previous best lap time was set on a damp track, so I knew I could easily do better. The car had HEAPS of grip! and was super stable through the fast turns that used to feel... unsafe haha. So I was stoked to set a new PB of 1:56.0 buuuutttt my clutch shit the bed after only 5 laps. So there's definitely more left in it, my best lap was pretty shoddy, some sectors I was still actually faster from last time. Combining best sector times from both runs there's an easy 1:54 I reckon. Spent the rest of the day taking some pics which was fun, but a comical series of events means I'm currently on a bus back to Auckland to grab the truck and trailer to head back down and pick it up. At a guess I'd say the clutch lining has demolished itself, but time will tell! Will be a few days yet until I have the car home and can yank the engine back out.

The problem with 3 piecing them is that you're machining the stepped dish flat, you're getting rid of only thing thats ever cool about dish in the first place. The widened ones pictured look yuck with the flattened off face and gross bolts/studs combo going on there. If you're just wanting to recuperate some money, then 3 piecing them isnt going to be worth your while. Probably just need to take a hit on asking price, or hold on to them.

Hmmm hard to say whether you would get exactly the sound you're after first try. Why not build the exhaust and then have a flange just before the muffler... That way you can try a few different combos to see what's sweet. My car runs two straight through mufflers from Chase, they were pretty cheap. I just went there and told the dude what I was after and he had a flick through his book and found me what I was after. I flanged the rear muffler as I thought I'd need to swap it for something quieter/sanity... But it's actually not as bad as I thought it would be. They'd probably have a pretty good idea of what would work for what you're after. It would suck to get something $$$ custom made $$$ and then it's not what you're wanting.

Ahhh okay thanks guys. Yeah this stuff would be long gone if it was mine, but I'm looking after it for a friend who's overseas. So cant sell.

Hey, This might sound like a stupid idea, and it probably is. But I've got a bunch of car audio stuff (think a big bass speaker thing and and amp for it that fills half a car boot) and some smaller speakers that go with it that dont otherwise have a use. I was thinking rather than just sitting in the cupboard forever and ever I could set them up in the lounge or something. Doable / good idea / bad idea? Could I wire them straight in as normal speakers, or use the amplifier, or ??? Bits I've got are: Thunder 2300 Power Amplifier power Acoustik G540-2 GOTHIC series A fusion 12" by the looks speaker in a ported box And some smaller amps that have some 6" speakers and tweeters. I know nothing about car audio, but these came from a friends car who was a car audio nerd back in the day. Is it as simple as using a 240v > 12v converter type thing, or best to just flag the amps and wire speakers to a stereo? Any comments/suggestions/etc welcome, thanks.

Spencer, who never finishes any of his own projects because he overcomplicates things and gives up... Is telling you to take the most complicated, difficult and expensive option. Rookie, who notoriously undersells how long things take or how difficult they are, wants to cut your car in half just before gapping it overseas. Do you want to get it running and have some fun, or scope creep your finish line a few more years into the future? Keep the 4 link even if it aint great, or do whatever seems like it will help you get this up and running.

Yeah these things are easy to say when it's not your car though.

Yeah the thinking mans decision, its where you think "why the fuck did I cut my car up instead of getting it going"

That'll be awesome because how this car is at the moment rocks!

Your engine buildergive any ideas on what power output might be for this beast? Cant wait to see it all come together, and I bet its going to sound freaken amazing too!

Havent most people gone back away from the bike carb thing? Thought they ended up being pretty average for power / economy / everything but doort. (I am in no way implying that it's still not a valid reason) I drove Rot808s car one time and it was maaaagnificent Would sound awesome on a six.

Hahahah wow! Never seen those side wipers before, so cool. Nice work on bringing this all together, looks cool.

More modern toyotas have flexis built into the flanges by having a cone shaped gasket thing and springs in the bolts. You can get them easily in 2.5" 2.25" and downwards. Using one on the end of extractors on mine partially because I can reuse the gasket a zillion times when pulling motor in and out and it still seals. And a bit more forgiving to the exhaust if it scrapes on the ground or whatever.

Yeah we've made a few things like brake caliper adators already by drawing in cad, printing 1:1, checking, revising drawing, reprinting, etc etc then using it as a template to machine the final thing. Comes in handy later on having those cad files for if you need to make another one or whatever. However this time I was a bit stuck for good ideas on how to make it + keen to get on the laser cutting bandwagon. I've got a good idea now of where to start, thanks guys.

Aahh thanks guys, Rookie that looks like a good idea. I'll do some measuring etc tonight and see what looks feasible. Anyone got any good recommendations for laser cutting in Penrose-ish area? Or a bit further afield isnt a drama.

Weld it to the new bracket? Or the existing one.

Palmy Nats

Hey, My car has a 4 link + panhard rod fixing to a live axle. The problem I've got at the moment is that after the car has been lowered, the 4 link angles cause some annoying handling issues which I wish to remedy. The easy/common option is to buy/make some 'traction brackets' which bolt on like this: Which works for an AE86 etc because the 'top' hole in the diff bracket is the same size as a normal bolt hole. However mine is quite a bit larger, (Thats what she said / not really) like this: So I cant really use that second hole to locate it. Anyone got any good ideas on how to make something fit? I dont really want to chop the whole mount off and remake it, because both the pins for the shocks and also the panhard rod mount sit on the back of these 4 links brackets. (Annoying!) Current best ideas are to make a bracket with a steel pin or big washer type things that run through the middle to locate it properly in the big hole: Or weld a new piece on to existing: Any suggestions / ideas / etc appreciated.

I've gotta come for a mish down to yours and try on some of your wheels and see if any clear my calipers. In other news, giz some pictures of your diff setup / where the trailing arms connect to the body etc? Does your diff have adjustable positions for mounting the 4 links?

If you want another option / if this is any less ugly looking: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-860824949.htm It needs pretty big fittings each end though. EDIT: Assuming 16v 4AGEs are top feed injectors.