Roman

The Toyota speedo drives only go in one way, without rotating but have different sized gears. I think the trick is... That it's spinning off something thats rotating 90 degrees to its direction, so it can accomodate a bigger or smaller gear by floating the gear slightly further forwards or backwards. As the part it spins on in the gearbox looks like this.

Sparky gave me a "lock in the boot to earn a letter" punch card, is this not legit? Although now that you mention it, it does look more like a Mobil coffee card. Ahhh well, three letters to go.

For what its worth I've got discs on the back of mine, but end up using a bias valve to turn them almost completely off anyway or it locks up the rear. Way better hand brake turns with drums haha.

Anyone know where in Auckland I can get injector O rings?

Most kits use the same Bosch sensors, there's an earlier one called 4.2 and a later design called 4.9 Make sure to get something with the 4.9 sensor because they last a lot longer. If you buy an LC2 on trademe or whatever it pays to confirm, because some people will have old stock with the 4.2.

HERES WHY I LIKE GRAPHS. I was looking up the deadtime info on the Injector Dynamics page (As you do) When you put it on a graph it's pretty obvious that there's a typo in one of their figures. Should be 1140ms instead of 1040ms at 12v and 65psi pressure differential. But it's hard to tell when it's just lost in a sea of numbers listed on the page.

Toyota changed to the stupid fuckin' convention of calling every diff "A" something instead of T, F, etc. I think the confusion can be that some "G" series diffs are called A as well. But I think only the Gita wagon or something like that came with G series? Or none at all of the altezzas? But some other cars have a "G" that starts with "A" I've seen an Altezza diff swapped into both the older IRS housing and older live axle with no issues. If you get an Altezza LSD theres prettty much 100% chance it's an F series. then if it's a G series torsen you can sell it on for big bucks haha. So cant go wrong.

Putting a battery charger on while it's doing it's thing might work! If not... I've looked at known data from a shitload of injectors to see what kind of curve there is for the deadtime changing with Voltage, and see if it's predictable. 95% of the ones I've looked at, if you add an "exponential" trend line it matches the curve pretty much bang on. So even if I could only go to 12v I'm confident that I could extrapolate to 14v-15v reasonably accurately. showing only 3 here so it doesnt look cluttered, but they mostly all look the same. Interestingly my aliexpress injectors which supplied a deadtime data sheet, the deadtimes are exactly the same as RC Engineering 750cc injectors. So probably rubbish data because they just copy pasted from somewhere else!

Oh yep cool. The only problem in my case is that because I'm using parts from my car to set this up (fuel pump, FPR, ECU, injectors) I cant run the car while the test is going. So can only go to a max of 12 volts when I really need 14+ But regardless, seeing how the deadtimes change with fuel pressure will be interesting in itself even at 12v. The deadtimes for my two set of injectors are WAY different based on current info. Outer injector deadtime is roughly double.

I'm going to control it with my ECU - an extension cord on Injector plug #1. So I've got full control over it with laptop, and I'll have datalogging of what's going on. There's an ECU test function where I can input how many ms I want the injector triggered for, and I can also make it fire a set amount of times. So for finding deadtimes, you could reduce the MS until no fuel comes out. If I want to find the CC rating, I can run it at say 50% duty cycle at 100hz for say 1000 events and then see how much it fills the tube in that time period. Once the deadtimes are figured out, you can test to see how linear the injector is at low opening times. There's a compensation table for "short pulsewidth adder" to address this. If the ECU would want to spray in say 15ms of fuel, but that's an area where the injector is non linear. Then it actually sprays 13ms or 17ms or whatever to compensate, if you've got that table filled in. So these things just make a really little difference, but accurate information makes all of the compensation tables work way better for changing temps etc. Makes quite a difference where I'm trying to blend together two sets of injectors though, as currently I'm not confident that my deadtimes are at all accurate. At this stage, because I dont have spare fuel pump or FPR I'm going to be using the stuff from my car. But I'd like to have a voltage regulator so that I can set it somewhere between 8 volts and 15 volts for finding deadtimes - Any ideas on an easy way to go about this Ned?

We need Rotor themed Kareoke for next nats.

So I called up the captain, "Please make gillies whine" He said, "We haven't had them ping so tight since 1969"

On a South Auckland highway, cool wind in my hair Warm smell of my engine, rising up through the air Cop stop in the distance, I saw the shimmering lights Threw out my bevvy and my lights turn dim I had to keep out of sight Temp went colder than Norway; I think compression fell And I was thinking to myself, "This tang could be heaven or it could be Hell" Then I gave it the Jandal, my tires went away I had my foot right to the floor, I hope my seals Stay... Welcome to the 12A California

Oh man this test rig thingy rules: Making something similar currently but just to test 1 injector at a time. Keen to get some good injector deadtime values and see how spray pattern and CC rating changes at varying pressure differentials.

Hey little rota is your daddy home? Did he call AA plus is he on the phone? Mm-Hm, you got a bad design Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Tell me now baby is he good to you? And can he nang on your limiter like I do? - Oh no, I can rev you higher Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Sometimes, it's like someone got a drill, baby, edgy and dull And cut a bridge port through the middle of my skull I blew up the bellhousing when I revd until its dead Had a flywheel running through the middle of my head Only you, Rotary desire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire Oh Oh Oh, cars on fire

Hey guys, There's a playday event happening on the Monday of ANZAC weekend. Would be great to see some OS people along! Trying to find a way to make it there on semis...

You got a fast car It'll get a ticket to anywhere Maybe it needs water seals Maybe together we hook Os somewhere Any temp is better Starting from zero got nothing to lose Maybe we'll overheat something Me myself I got nothing to prove ~Tracy Brapman

Yes, I need to take the diff out and remake the mounts. I will procrastinate on this issue for.... 1 more year. No wait! Two. Two more years.

Booked in for an ANZAC day trackday at Hampton. Cant wait! Between now and then, just giving the car a once over and making sure the brake pads/discs etc are still looking alright. Pads are maybe 2/3rds worn now, but have not had a single iota of brake fade using them. Ferodo DS2200 gets my tick of approval. While I've had everything apart, thought I'd see if these other tire sizes look feasible... Keep in mind that these pictures are shown with the tire resting against the strut, so would have to sit 10+mm further out. starting with 235/50/15 Definitely too wide! then next a 225/50/15 This might be doable! It would be awesome to run a 225 all round. Might give me a few more laps before tires start overheating. Maybe a few less laps until brakes start getting super hot though... Might need some venting if driving with semislicks. As the discs look like they've seen some epic temperatures which cant be great for bearings etc. Might repack the bearings with grease while it's all apart. Trackdays wouldnt be fun, without procrastinating about putting your car back together until the night before. EDIT: Late request by Snoozin for more graphs per post:

I'm a fuse Greg, could you blow me?

Ro-tea-re engine with dilma belt

An oil change could make all of the difference, if it's been in there forever... Worth a try as your only other option is dissasembly.

Firstly, what type of LSD is it? Different oil might fix shudder in one type but not another. My experiences with a plate type. Getting shudder means the plates are grabbing too much and so the tire skips instead. As the diff stays locked. Unless there's grooves or something on the plates causing it to bind or something, but you wont know that without pulling it apart. In my experience: Used some type of LSD oil available from Repco and had a mad shudder. Tried tried the redline equivilent and it was much better, even though same oil grade... but shudder still there. Then I added a bottle of Cusco friction modifier oil (you can get this from BNT) and it was night and day difference. Still shuddered though! So ended up disassembling LSD and reducing preload and changed plate order etc, and this totally transformed how the car behaved. Then went back to the original (cheaper) type of oil with no modifier in it, and life has been good ever since. TL;DR: Changing oil made some amount of difference, but didnt make the issue go away.

The factory GZE ECU already does switch it off at cruising, so you'll not gain much form that. Buuuutttt there's an undeniable novelty factor of having a supercharger turn on with the flip of a switch, and I'm all for novelties Shout out if you get stuck on something and need a hand, no spare parts though sadly!

4AG(Z)E swap is just toooooooo easy in a Carina, great option! Already A series cross member/mounts, already a T50, already hydraulic clutch, already an A series bellhousing, already T series diff etc etc. Way easier than AE85 > AE86 as half of the stuff is already there. All signs point to 4AGZE being an awesome option